j beede

I am past due to do brakes all the way around on my 2005 997 C2 MT6 non-tracked. Each time I do my "homework" I end up logging off without having place an order for rotors and pads. I am wondering what process you DIY brake guys used to make your choices? I like my brakes the way they are--if I knew what rotors and pads were in there I would not hesitate to order the same.

Then there is...
Zinc plated v painted rotors
One piece or two?
Reuse flex lines or go stainless? (I prefer to not have to bleed the ABS)
Seems that Textar pads may be about the only pads that have disappointed (noise)

Anyone know of a list of the tools/sockets/etc that I will need to swap out all four rotors?

Jeremy Hazeltine

doclouie

Presto

Hella-Buggin'

Do you need to replace the lines if so stick with OE? If you're not tracking and happy with what you have just stick with that. Sounds like you're doing it yourself?
Look on Pelican Parts and just buy the OE manufactured parts. Personally, I'd take it in to have the fluid changed and ABS system flushed.
I hate dealing with nasty brake fluid.

Petza914

If you don't allow the reservoir to run completely dry, you don't need to bleed the abs system even if replacing the brake lines. I always install braided stainless brake lines on all my cars. Just did a full PCCB upgrade on my Cayenne this week with new stainless lines.












I have this lightly used setup from an 05 c2s if anyone us interested in upgrading the stock brakes for less than stock replacement cost.

Rear Sebro slotted rotors with grey e-coat and then high-temp painted black hubs and Hawk HPS pads for all 4 corners. You'd need some front rotors to complete the set. One rear pad needs new dampener pads.

Make me an offer.

j beede

Rear rotors are easy? What about the parking brake and are there special tools needed?

bml376

I created a document when I last did this job. The tools I needed were:

Impact screw driver
Punch
Brake piston spreader
Anti-seize
Rubber mallet
Hammer
Brake clean
Screw driver
13 mm socket
12 mm socket
½” drive
Torque wrench
5 lb-ft
54 lb-ft

Parts:

New rotors
New pads
New rotor retaining screws (Part # 900-269-047-01-M100) there are 2 per rotor

This was my first time ever replacing brakes and overall it was smooth. Depending on your car and when brake rotors were last replaced, you might encounter a stuck retaining screw. Be patient and don't strip the screw.

To clarify, I have brake caliper studs, hence the 54 lb-ft value for the torque wrench. I don't recall what torque value the stock caliper bolt requires, but you should find that out before doing this yourself.

Petza914

I don't recall if the caliper mounting bolts are regular metric hex or triplesquare heads. If Triplesquare (like the Cayenne) that's the only special tool you should need.

Parking brake adjustment is detailed here.




When putting in new rear pads, the best thing to prevent squeal is the OEM pad dampeners, like these (Suncoast sells them in kits by axle).


Not as good, but a decent alternative, and what you may want to use on the front is some pad anti-squeal paste. This goes on the back of the pad where it meets the caliper pistons - not on the front where it meets the rotor surface.

j beede

So, I pulled the wheels today to see what my pads were looking like and which pads were causing the wear warning. The rear pads look nearly new. The fronts are showing uneven wear with about 20% left on the outside pads and about 40% remaining on the inside pads. Interesting. I have not had Brembo brakes before and (coincidentally) this is the first car I have had showing uneven pad wear. Past vehicles with Nissan brakes have rubber boots loaded with grease to keep the calipers free to center themselves on the pins. Quite different than the dry and dusty Brembo on my 997. I guess the Brembo are meant to balance inside v outside pad pressure hydraulically. In any case it does not seem to be working as intended.