AOS tubes
10-22-2018, 11:53 PM
#1
AOS tubes
I am laying out a plan to change my B+ cable to the starter (slow starts when hot, 0.9 to 1.0 volt drop from alternator to battery when running). While I am deep in there, figure I will do my AOS also. It is an 07 C4S with about 38k miles.
When I shine a flashlight back to the AOS, I can see that the tube that comes off the AOS towards the left front of the engine (breather line for the left half of engine?) is pretty mucky looking with oil around where it connects to the AOS. I would imagine that if I could see the right tube also, it would be similar. The tube from the AOS to the throttle body looks clean. I am not seeing any AOS failure signs (i.e. there is no oil smoke from exhaust), but just curious if I should be buying more parts besides just the AOS itself based on the appearance? Anything else I can check before digging in to the job?
When I shine a flashlight back to the AOS, I can see that the tube that comes off the AOS towards the left front of the engine (breather line for the left half of engine?) is pretty mucky looking with oil around where it connects to the AOS. I would imagine that if I could see the right tube also, it would be similar. The tube from the AOS to the throttle body looks clean. I am not seeing any AOS failure signs (i.e. there is no oil smoke from exhaust), but just curious if I should be buying more parts besides just the AOS itself based on the appearance? Anything else I can check before digging in to the job?
10-23-2018, 01:09 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
following. Seems like getting the rubber that connects to it makes sense, and I would, but looking to see what the experts say.
10-23-2018, 09:15 PM
#4
Racer
I am laying out a plan to change my B+ cable to the starter (slow starts when hot, 0.9 to 1.0 volt drop from alternator to battery when running). While I am deep in there, figure I will do my AOS also. It is an 07 C4S with about 38k miles.
When I shine a flashlight back to the AOS, I can see that the tube that comes off the AOS towards the left front of the engine (breather line for the left half of engine?) is pretty mucky looking with oil around where it connects to the AOS. I would imagine that if I could see the right tube also, it would be similar. The tube from the AOS to the throttle body looks clean. I am not seeing any AOS failure signs (i.e. there is no oil smoke from exhaust), but just curious if I should be buying more parts besides just the AOS itself based on the appearance? Anything else I can check before digging in to the job?
When I shine a flashlight back to the AOS, I can see that the tube that comes off the AOS towards the left front of the engine (breather line for the left half of engine?) is pretty mucky looking with oil around where it connects to the AOS. I would imagine that if I could see the right tube also, it would be similar. The tube from the AOS to the throttle body looks clean. I am not seeing any AOS failure signs (i.e. there is no oil smoke from exhaust), but just curious if I should be buying more parts besides just the AOS itself based on the appearance? Anything else I can check before digging in to the job?
I was in to replace the alternator + starter cable this summer just like you and found it like that. I also didn't have the typical smoke symptom but I did see some pooling oil in front of the throttle valve while removing it to get to the alt cable.
I haven't been back to replace it, but was going to do the AOS and line #7 when I do. Car is tucked away for winter now, so won't be until the spring that I tackle it. Good call replacing it while in there - might as well since you've got everything opened up!
10-23-2018, 11:08 PM
#5
And is that Lapis Blue in your avatar? Same here.....maybe the color is the issue.....
10-24-2018, 08:07 PM
#6
Racer
Rampage - YES!!! Your picture in that post is EXACTLY what mine looks like right now. Once I order parts and get a chance to dig into it, I will post back here and let you know what I find. Would not be surprised if that line is cracked. I did realize last night that I can easily see the #5 line as it loops around to the right side of the engine - it is perfectly clean on mine.
And is that Lapis Blue in your avatar? Same here.....maybe the color is the issue.....
And is that Lapis Blue in your avatar? Same here.....maybe the color is the issue.....
And good eye ... it sure is Lapis blue! What an awesome colour!
11-10-2018, 08:00 PM
#7
With all of the parts in, I have been tackling little bits of this job each evening this week - AOS, B+ cable, and starter. Still not finished since the reman starter I bought has solenoid terminals that were oriented wrong and it had to go back today. What I learned so far:
-A/C compressor removal is pretty easy - just remove the temp probe from the right intake manifold like others have reco'd, then use one hand to find the bolt on back (it is oriented in same direction as front bolts) and get on it with a single U-joint.
-Alternator removal is a royal pain. The two ears on the right side of it are just too tight to spin the alternator the way you need to for removal, and I had to actually file them down a bit in the car to get the alternator to where I could remove the cable (used shop vac while filing to suck up the filings). I ended up just fully pulling it out, and filed it a bit more outside the car - hoping reinstall is way easier. It should not be that hard by design, but if those ears are tight on the bracket that is part of the power steering pump, it isn't going to happen without some struggle.
-Starter left/lower bolt is very easy to access with alternator out. Just need some long wobbles and a breaker bar. No u-joints or blind spots.
-B+ cable boot was badly burned/melted on the starter crimp connector. Clear sign I needed to get the thing out of there.
-The engine side of AOS tube #7 is visible and accessible from under the car with the first back underpanel removed. But...with one person I actually found it easier to remove from above once the starter was out. With 2 people, you could probably have one person under car squeezing the connector and another above the car pulling the tube off. Can't get leverage from underneath to squeeze and push it off the fitting with one person. Those AOS tube connectors suck almost as much as the alternator.
-The oily buildup on mine looked bad before the job from outside, but upon getting in there, it was only on about the first 6 inches of the #7 tube, and a little bit of the #5 tube. And the AOS was filthy. I changed the #7 since I had bought one, but upon removal, I can't see any obvious damage and it holds pressure. I think the oily buildup is a symptom of AOS failure. I had oil in the AOS to intake manifold tube, and plenty in the manifold so it is definitely sucking oil through the AOS more than I would expect it should. Would love to know how the AOS actually works internally and how it fails.
Starter will hopefully be in tomorrow morning and I can wrap this all up quickly.
-A/C compressor removal is pretty easy - just remove the temp probe from the right intake manifold like others have reco'd, then use one hand to find the bolt on back (it is oriented in same direction as front bolts) and get on it with a single U-joint.
-Alternator removal is a royal pain. The two ears on the right side of it are just too tight to spin the alternator the way you need to for removal, and I had to actually file them down a bit in the car to get the alternator to where I could remove the cable (used shop vac while filing to suck up the filings). I ended up just fully pulling it out, and filed it a bit more outside the car - hoping reinstall is way easier. It should not be that hard by design, but if those ears are tight on the bracket that is part of the power steering pump, it isn't going to happen without some struggle.
-Starter left/lower bolt is very easy to access with alternator out. Just need some long wobbles and a breaker bar. No u-joints or blind spots.
-B+ cable boot was badly burned/melted on the starter crimp connector. Clear sign I needed to get the thing out of there.
-The engine side of AOS tube #7 is visible and accessible from under the car with the first back underpanel removed. But...with one person I actually found it easier to remove from above once the starter was out. With 2 people, you could probably have one person under car squeezing the connector and another above the car pulling the tube off. Can't get leverage from underneath to squeeze and push it off the fitting with one person. Those AOS tube connectors suck almost as much as the alternator.
-The oily buildup on mine looked bad before the job from outside, but upon getting in there, it was only on about the first 6 inches of the #7 tube, and a little bit of the #5 tube. And the AOS was filthy. I changed the #7 since I had bought one, but upon removal, I can't see any obvious damage and it holds pressure. I think the oily buildup is a symptom of AOS failure. I had oil in the AOS to intake manifold tube, and plenty in the manifold so it is definitely sucking oil through the AOS more than I would expect it should. Would love to know how the AOS actually works internally and how it fails.
Starter will hopefully be in tomorrow morning and I can wrap this all up quickly.
Trending Topics
11-11-2018, 12:37 AM
#8
Racer
With all of the parts in, I have been tackling little bits of this job each evening this week - AOS, B+ cable, and starter. Still not finished since the reman starter I bought has solenoid terminals that were oriented wrong and it had to go back today. What I learned so far:
-A/C compressor removal is pretty easy - just remove the temp probe from the right intake manifold like others have reco'd, then use one hand to find the bolt on back (it is oriented in same direction as front bolts) and get on it with a single U-joint.
-Alternator removal is a royal pain. The two ears on the right side of it are just too tight to spin the alternator the way you need to for removal, and I had to actually file them down a bit in the car to get the alternator to where I could remove the cable (used shop vac while filing to suck up the filings). I ended up just fully pulling it out, and filed it a bit more outside the car - hoping reinstall is way easier. It should not be that hard by design, but if those ears are tight on the bracket that is part of the power steering pump, it isn't going to happen without some struggle.
-Starter left/lower bolt is very easy to access with alternator out. Just need some long wobbles and a breaker bar. No u-joints or blind spots.
-B+ cable boot was badly burned/melted on the starter crimp connector. Clear sign I needed to get the thing out of there.
-The engine side of AOS tube #7 is visible and accessible from under the car with the first back underpanel removed. But...with one person I actually found it easier to remove from above once the starter was out. With 2 people, you could probably have one person under car squeezing the connector and another above the car pulling the tube off. Can't get leverage from underneath to squeeze and push it off the fitting with one person. Those AOS tube connectors suck almost as much as the alternator.
-The oily buildup on mine looked bad before the job from outside, but upon getting in there, it was only on about the first 6 inches of the #7 tube, and a little bit of the #5 tube. And the AOS was filthy. I changed the #7 since I had bought one, but upon removal, I can't see any obvious damage and it holds pressure. I think the oily buildup is a symptom of AOS failure. I had oil in the AOS to intake manifold tube, and plenty in the manifold so it is definitely sucking oil through the AOS more than I would expect it should. Would love to know how the AOS actually works internally and how it fails.
Starter will hopefully be in tomorrow morning and I can wrap this all up quickly.
-A/C compressor removal is pretty easy - just remove the temp probe from the right intake manifold like others have reco'd, then use one hand to find the bolt on back (it is oriented in same direction as front bolts) and get on it with a single U-joint.
-Alternator removal is a royal pain. The two ears on the right side of it are just too tight to spin the alternator the way you need to for removal, and I had to actually file them down a bit in the car to get the alternator to where I could remove the cable (used shop vac while filing to suck up the filings). I ended up just fully pulling it out, and filed it a bit more outside the car - hoping reinstall is way easier. It should not be that hard by design, but if those ears are tight on the bracket that is part of the power steering pump, it isn't going to happen without some struggle.
-Starter left/lower bolt is very easy to access with alternator out. Just need some long wobbles and a breaker bar. No u-joints or blind spots.
-B+ cable boot was badly burned/melted on the starter crimp connector. Clear sign I needed to get the thing out of there.
-The engine side of AOS tube #7 is visible and accessible from under the car with the first back underpanel removed. But...with one person I actually found it easier to remove from above once the starter was out. With 2 people, you could probably have one person under car squeezing the connector and another above the car pulling the tube off. Can't get leverage from underneath to squeeze and push it off the fitting with one person. Those AOS tube connectors suck almost as much as the alternator.
-The oily buildup on mine looked bad before the job from outside, but upon getting in there, it was only on about the first 6 inches of the #7 tube, and a little bit of the #5 tube. And the AOS was filthy. I changed the #7 since I had bought one, but upon removal, I can't see any obvious damage and it holds pressure. I think the oily buildup is a symptom of AOS failure. I had oil in the AOS to intake manifold tube, and plenty in the manifold so it is definitely sucking oil through the AOS more than I would expect it should. Would love to know how the AOS actually works internally and how it fails.
Starter will hopefully be in tomorrow morning and I can wrap this all up quickly.
And I echo the comments on the alternator ... that was a real PITA. I got it out OK, but had to file it down in order to get it back in the car. There was simply NO other way it was going to fit. I spent way too long struggling with that than I care to admit!