When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Has anyone tried them and is there enough room under a 997 TTS for the Jack and the top piece of this brand??
That's a neat idea. Here are potential issues with the Rennstands that I see - having never used them, I emphasize the "potential"
It's great that they can go so high, however, because the taller they get the wider the base gets (because of the angled support ends), if the car's jack points are close to the wheels, like they are on the 997, you may be limited as to how high you can go without the lengthened support leg interfering with the tire. Now you could put them up high enough to get the wheel off and then put the jack back under the support again to lift if higher and lengthen the leg, but then you're doing everything twice, I personally don't like to remove a wheel and tire until the car is settled on the stands so that if it falls, it lands on the tire and suspension, and I'd never do this with the PCCBs on two of my cars risking that the jack fails during the second lift and car lands on the $5,000 rotor to break it's fall, and fracture the rotor.
I don't see that with either top option (the saddle or the pinch weld version) that there is anything to prevent metal on metal contact at the lift point. Metal on Metal is slippery, especially when you introduce angles - they need to offer another top option or build into the concave saddle one at least a pin or an oval that you can lock into the jacking point on our cars.
I know some here are as **** about their cars as I am, and I don't want the jacking points under my car scratched up (looks ugly and can also lead to rust), which is why in my earlier post, I showed the different pieces I have to interface between the jack and the car's jacking point. When they make the new 3rd more secure top piece, they should incorporate a rubber pad that actually contacts the metal of the car's jacking point.
the longer you make the legs for height, the more outward force and torque is being placed on the angled pieces of square tubing of the top section of the Rennstand. I've seen steel square tubing completely split at the corners when enough force is applied on an angle to the corner, in-fact it happened to me with a jack accessory I purchased. It was a split beam adapter for a floor jack. It was a a Rectangular Tubing center section with a post that locked into the hole for the normal jack saddle, then had slightly smaller rectangular sections on both sides that could slide out and adjust in width, then screw in adjustable saddles coming up from those, like you see in these internet captured photos.
The concept was that you could position the jack at a central lifting point but support it equidistant from the center on both sides which would prevent the vehicle from tipping and raise that end of it evenly.
On the first use with a light car (the 914 that's only about 2,500 lbs total and the adapter was rated for 2 tons), and the slide outs were not very far out, it split the corner of the center rectangular section in short order. It happened even before I got the car up very high, thank goodness, so the tire on that side caught the car and kept it from being damaged. It went straight to the metal recycler after that.
This is the section of the Rennstand I'm not sure about, specifically the two outer corners.
Yep, after a year of messing with jacks and taking my life (and an expensive car) in my hands, I went with the Quickjack. They are more expensive, but what's your life worth? And they get the car up high enough to actually work under. They even have a 12V version for the track. Last I knew the 5000 lb. version fit the 997s between the tires. Get 'em at Pelican, Northern Parts, etc, preferably on sale.
But for the long run, I've gone for a two post lift that I will be installing this week.
Why? Because I've jacked these cars up many times. Every time they lever to one side and then the other, teetering on the jack stands. Letting them down is equally scary. And trying to crawl under the car to remove panels to make inspections is a major pain.
I installed new brakes yesterday ... the last job I'll be doing from the floor.
But for the long run, I've gone for a two post lift that I will be installing this week.
Why? Because I've jacked these cars up many times. Every time they lever to one side and then the other, teetering on the jack stands. Letting them down is equally scary. And trying to crawl under the car to remove panels to make inspections is a major pain.
I installed new brakes yesterday ... the last job I'll be doing from the floor.
That's a neat idea. Here are potential issues with the Rennstands that I see - having never used them, I emphasize the "potential"It's great that they can go so high, however, because the taller they get the wider the base gets (because of the angled support ends), if the car's jack points are close to the wheels, like they are on the 997, you may be limited as to how high you can go without the lengthened support leg interfering with the tire. Now you could put them up high enough to get the wheel off and then put the jack back under the support again to lift if higher and lengthen the leg, but then you're doing everything twice, I personally don't like to remove a wheel and tire until the car is settled on the stands so that if it falls, it lands on the tire and suspension, and I'd never do this with the PCCBs on two of my cars risking that the jack fails during the second lift and car lands on the $5,000 rotor to break it's fall, and fracture the rotor.
I am looking at Rennstands but I do not have them yet. I think that the wheel interference is not an issue. At least not for a 11-14" height, or so.
Originally Posted by Petza914
I don't see that with either top option (the saddle or the pinch weld version) that there is anything to prevent metal on metal contact at the lift point. Metal on Metal is slippery, especially when you introduce angles - they need to offer another top option or build into the concave saddle one at least a pin or an oval that you can lock into the jacking point on our cars.
They have different jack pads. They have one for the 997 which is a 3x3" plate with a round cylindrical peg to hook up to the car's jack points.
They also have a 4x4" metal plate where one could glue a standard 3" diam hockey puck.
The manufacturer safejack.com has experience in aircraft jacking tools and they pick up the phone to answer questions.
Of course, Wayne's solution - 2-post lift - is the ultimate tool.
Here's my car up on the QuickJack position #2 (highest) when I was installing the Fisters. After thirty years of using jackstands I decided to get something better. Garage is too small for a full-size lift, so for me the choices were MaxJack or QuickJack. The MaxJack requires drilling holes in the floor for the securing fittings that I didn't want to mess with, so I ordered the BL-5000SLX directly from QuickJack. QuickJack has their own YouTube channel and there are plenty of other videos there. Company ships quick and setup is fairly simple. For about $20 I got a set of four Porsche-specific hockey puck pads from Amazon for about $20 that fit snug into the jackpoint slots. This solution works well for me, and I've used it for working on my Ford Sport Trac and wife's C230.
Car up on locked position #2. I'd say there's about 20" of room underneath, very useful when I was doing the Fister install.
08-21-2018, 07:11 PM
