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Glad I found this thread. Picked up my 2006 Carrera S on Mon and only saw 190-200 on the 650 mile drive back. Took it out today at lunch and she went to about 220-225 in stop and go traffic and my first thought was "let the issues begin". Good to hear this is pretty much normal!!
Removed the debris from in front of, and between, the condensers and the radiators. At that time I "washed" the radiators with foaming coil cleaner and a garden hose.
New water pump, thermostat, reservoir, and drive belt. System replenished with Porsche coolant.
Mobil1 0W/40
55° - 65° ambient temps resulted in 205° - 230° oil temps.
I didn't measure coolant temps because I did not have a scan tool.
In some instances it can appear that the oil temp is too low; however, in these instances there is minimal load on the engine and the RPMs are below 4K.
Currently coolant and oil temps are not impacted by ambient temperature. I don't know what to expect when winter hits; I may have to block the center radiator.
One can install the LTT without the center radiator. Based on my experience, one should not install the center radiator without the LTT. YMMV.
This is good data/information B453D; thanks for posting. Its great to see/hear real life factual data points instead of conjecture and anecdotal info/comments.
I too have a 2005 M96 C2 manual 52k miles since new. I have the original water pump and TT and had the coolant changed once in my 19 years of ownership.
I do have Zunsport front radiator screens and no center radiator. My front rads visually look pretty clean as I hose them out when washing, but never pulled them apart for cleaning which I should/will do at some point. Also using DT40 (5w/40). Water temp stays at 175 per the gauge; not measured via scan.
My oil temps run up to 240 / 245 with some spirted driving on 85- 95 degree days, but do come back down to 220-225 once I let off. It does concern me that it sporadically gets a bit too high, but then comes back down (fans kick on?)
Once I have the water pump proactively changed, I will do all at once - add center rad, pull rads apart for thorough cleaning, LTT... as what you did seemed to make a marked difference.
Here you go for oil temps and pressures. Supercharged C2S with MantisSport 2L deep sump running Drive FR50 5w50 oil
Low 80s day after longish drive (50 miles) at idle
Next day - cooler morning while underway after full warm up
If pushing the car hard, like on a Rennsport Dragon Rally, I've seen oil temps as high as 235 or even 250, but never above that, and with the Driven oil, I don't worry about those oil temps as it's fine up to 300 F.
Over the past weekend I was in the 250 range (maybe 260 F for a minute or two ) at Rennsport Dragon Rally. That was air temp of 78-80F and over 20min of high rpm driving (between 5500 - redline rpms) would drop to 225 if I kept the rpm’s below 4,000 rpm’s in minutes. Never seen it that high.
Do you guys think I should get a 3rd radiator and LTT as a precaution?
Over the past weekend I was in the 250 range (maybe 260 F for a minute or two ) at Rennsport Dragon Rally. That was air temp of 78-80F and over 20min of high rpm driving (between 5500 - redline rpms) would drop to 225 if I kept the rpm’s below 4,000 rpm’s in minutes. Never seen it that high.
Do you guys think I should get a 3rd radiator and LTT as a precaution?
Yes and yes, for different reasons. 3rd radiator will help with the high temps. LTT will make forms more gradual warm up but won't effect ultimate temperature as a fully open 160 thermostat is the same as a 180 fully open thermostat and at those engine temps both would be fully open.
I have seen near 250 in stop and go in LA, mostly 175-200, a spirited Porsche parade drive in palm desert did not get over 220? I think switching to 5w 40 does have some effect on overall temps, higher numbers were observed with 0w 40
Pretty consistent 200 here with daily driver mix of highway and country roads. I haven't done any track days since I just got my 05 back in October of 23.
This is good data/information B453D; thanks for posting. Its great to see/hear real life factual data points instead of conjecture and anecdotal info/comments.
I too have a 2005 M96 C2 manual 52k miles since new. I have the original water pump and TT and had the coolant changed once in my 19 years of ownership.
I do have Zunsport front radiator screens and no center radiator. My front rads visually look pretty clean as I hose them out when washing, but never pulled them apart for cleaning which I should/will do at some point. Also using DT40 (5w/40). Water temp stays at 175 per the gauge; not measured via scan.
My oil temps run up to 240 / 245 with some spirted driving on 85- 95 degree days, but do come back down to 220-225 once I let off. It does concern me that it sporadically gets a bit too high, but then comes back down (fans kick on?)
Once I have the water pump proactively changed, I will do all at once - add center rad, pull rads apart for thorough cleaning, LTT... as what you did seemed to make a marked difference.
The efficacy of the center radiator is greater than I imagined. Aside from the bore scoring aspect, given the age of our cars, the plastic and rubber items will benefit from the heat reduction derived from this mod.
Over the past weekend I was in the 250 range (maybe 260 F for a minute or two ) at Rennsport Dragon Rally. That was air temp of 78-80F and over 20min of high rpm driving (between 5500 - redline rpms) would drop to 225 if I kept the rpm’s below 4,000 rpm’s in minutes. Never seen it that high.
Do you guys think I should get a 3rd radiator and LTT as a precaution?
check the fuse for the decklid vent fan under the rear seat. my oil was running hot but i noticed the decklid fan never ran...even in hot TX days my oil temps are always below 225F even in heavy traffic.
without fresh air ventilation the motor starts to heatsoak from lack of air movement...
I have become somewhat fixated with monitoring the oil temp over the last few years. For some reason (perhaps I did not pay attention), I don't recall it ever going over 205 or so regardless of the time of year in the past. I did make a post a while ago about my oil temp reaching 225 when going down a long curve ramp, and then in a couple minutes it goes back down and the asumption is that there may be some form of heat soak going on (makes sense, on an 18+ year old car with >117 000 miles on it). Not sure what there is to do about it.
It has been getting hot again here (Phoenix), and now the temps are hovering 220-225 most of the time (city/highway - people drive fast here, so probably averaging 75-80 MPH on the highway). When getting off the highway and back on city streets, it can get to 230 for a moment. I was getting somewhat worried again, but it seems that this oil temperature range is reasonable especially given the outside temperarture (it was 109 the other day).
Feel better reading that these type of temps are somewhat normal (Phoenix is also at a slightly higher altitude, 1100-1300 feet above sea level), so that may also play a role with heat exchange (or lack there of).
I generally see 200-220ish, however the other day I was pushing the car and "driving angry" and saw like probably 240ish. Do you guys think I have a problem?
I generally see 200-220ish, however the other day I was pushing the car and "driving angry" and saw like probably 240ish. Do you guys think I have a problem?
Not unless you're using Mobil 1 - stuff becomes water at those temps.
03-23-2023, 03:59 PM
