Which Eibach springs ?
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From: San Jose, CA
I'm personally not participating in the group buy, but I have a question that I think a few others maybe thinking...
While you're "in there" replacing the springs, what other components should be replaced for little to modest extra effort? I'm thinking of things like bushings, strut/shock top mounts, etc...
Karl.
While you're "in there" replacing the springs, what other components should be replaced for little to modest extra effort? I'm thinking of things like bushings, strut/shock top mounts, etc...
Karl.
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From: Manasquan, NJ
I'm personally not participating in the group buy, but I have a question that I think a few others maybe thinking...
While you're "in there" replacing the springs, what other components should be replaced for little to modest extra effort? I'm thinking of things like bushings, strut/shock top mounts, etc...
Karl.
While you're "in there" replacing the springs, what other components should be replaced for little to modest extra effort? I'm thinking of things like bushings, strut/shock top mounts, etc...
Karl.
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From: British Columbia
I have H&R springs too that came with my GTS (otherwise factory PASM). Just me, not sure I like them - rides a little too low, and I feel Eibach or OE SPASM will handle better.
Last edited by kru911; May 25, 2018 at 05:20 PM.
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I would HIGHLY.... I mean... HIGHLY recommend you replace the Top Strut Mounts which have rubber bushings in there that gets old, cracked, torn, stretched and tired. Especially when lowering the car you may think your strut mount is ok at first, but there will be added stress due to the lower springs and it will crack/tear for sure. Trust me, this is one job you do not want to do again because you start hearing some strange knocking a few months after doing springs. Ask me how I know
If the strut mount is worn out and tired you will also see a bit more "sagging" in the front. It may look like the fronts are slammed and the rear is too high. These will definitely lead to knocks and slams when bottoming out . With fresh strut mounts the relationship and weight balance between front drop and the rear drop will look much more even and handling will be much better. Less prone to bottoming out as well.
Also highly recommend replacing the strut bearings which look like a flat donut. These help to keep any twisting motion through the strut turning smoothly.
Bump stops are cheap and should be replaced for added protection and strength since you may be bottoming out a lot sooner with lowered springs.
Recommended, but not necessary, are "while your in there" replacing anything that has tired bushings:
-sway bar bushings (important to order correct size for your model year/make)
-sway bar links
-lower control arms ( Y fork)
-track control arms ( coffin shape)
-inner tie rod to steering
-outer tie rod to hub.
-check all grease boots to the hubs.
this adds up really quick, but if your car has anything near 60k miles or more... then you will be amazed at how well the steering control and feed back feel after replacing those old suspension bushings and parts. Precision and tightness to the steering and handling make a really nice difference.
If the strut mount is worn out and tired you will also see a bit more "sagging" in the front. It may look like the fronts are slammed and the rear is too high. These will definitely lead to knocks and slams when bottoming out . With fresh strut mounts the relationship and weight balance between front drop and the rear drop will look much more even and handling will be much better. Less prone to bottoming out as well.Also highly recommend replacing the strut bearings which look like a flat donut. These help to keep any twisting motion through the strut turning smoothly.
Bump stops are cheap and should be replaced for added protection and strength since you may be bottoming out a lot sooner with lowered springs.
Recommended, but not necessary, are "while your in there" replacing anything that has tired bushings:
-sway bar bushings (important to order correct size for your model year/make)
-sway bar links
-lower control arms ( Y fork)
-track control arms ( coffin shape)
-inner tie rod to steering
-outer tie rod to hub.
-check all grease boots to the hubs.
this adds up really quick, but if your car has anything near 60k miles or more... then you will be amazed at how well the steering control and feed back feel after replacing those old suspension bushings and parts. Precision and tightness to the steering and handling make a really nice difference.
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This video is helpful to see. watch the video, but pay close attention to 2:20- 3:25
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: San Diego <->Knoxville
Thanks for the tip Bill. I'm going to Eibach next week and even though mine only has 16K miles, they are 12 yrs old. Cheap insurance at $92/each
btw, are you doing any track days soon?
btw, are you doing any track days soon?