Icarsoft help
#1
Icarsoft help
Hi everybody. I bought an iCarsoft Por II to diagnose my first CEL. Car is a '05. There are no mechanical or visible (fluid, smoke, etc.) signs that anything is seriously wrong. I plug the reader into a usb and it turns on normally. I plug the reader into the OBD port and turn on the ignition, and nothing. Am I missing something? Why won't it turn on? Thanks for advice.
#2
Hi everybody. I bought an iCarsoft Por II to diagnose my first CEL. Car is a '05. There are no mechanical or visible (fluid, smoke, etc.) signs that anything is seriously wrong. I plug the reader into a usb and it turns on normally. I plug the reader into the OBD port and turn on the ignition, and nothing. Am I missing something? Why won't it turn on? Thanks for advice.
Scan tool doesn’t power up
If the scan tool won’t power up or operates incorrectly in any other way, you need to do the following to check up:
A) Check if the scan tool’s OBD II connector is securely connected to the vehicle’s DLC;
B) Check if the DLC pins are bent or broken. Clean the DLC pins if necessary.
C) Check vehicle battery to make sure it is still good with at least 9.0 volts.
Don't know what else to suggest.
#4
Ok, I tried the reader on another car and it worked fine. So, I have a dead obd port. This appears to actually be quite common, and seems to generally be attributable to a) a blown fuse; b) a dmaged connector pin; c) a short or witing problem to the port; or, d) a bad sensor in the system.
The fuses look fine. Porsche (and others) doesn’t tell you which fuse it is. You have to inspect them all closely. Some think it’s
fuse A-10. Some B-2. Oddly, a lot of cars appear to connect it to the lighter power. Again, all of mine look fine.
The reader and cable are new, and although the port appears to be in perfect condition, i was upside down and will inspect it closer tomorrow. From there, I might have to remove the port from the dash and back-test the power leads. If there’s power, then it’s a ground problem. If there’s no power, I’ll have to figure that out.
Then, I would have to check individual sensors by disconnecting them one/one to see when the reader can comminicate. Apparently, once the reader starts communcating, you’ve isolated your bad sensor. But, what if there’s more than one bad one?
I’ve aggregated this from posts, youtube vids and observation. I’ve seen a few of these threads but none really come to a clear conclusion. I’ll try to keep posting as I find out more. All suggestions or additions/corrections appreciated!
The fuses look fine. Porsche (and others) doesn’t tell you which fuse it is. You have to inspect them all closely. Some think it’s
fuse A-10. Some B-2. Oddly, a lot of cars appear to connect it to the lighter power. Again, all of mine look fine.
The reader and cable are new, and although the port appears to be in perfect condition, i was upside down and will inspect it closer tomorrow. From there, I might have to remove the port from the dash and back-test the power leads. If there’s power, then it’s a ground problem. If there’s no power, I’ll have to figure that out.
Then, I would have to check individual sensors by disconnecting them one/one to see when the reader can comminicate. Apparently, once the reader starts communcating, you’ve isolated your bad sensor. But, what if there’s more than one bad one?
I’ve aggregated this from posts, youtube vids and observation. I’ve seen a few of these threads but none really come to a clear conclusion. I’ll try to keep posting as I find out more. All suggestions or additions/corrections appreciated!
#5
I have two Icarsoft OBD readers and they both work flawlessly. Doesnt help your current situation, but to add a metric to the brand. One is 997 specific 9latest model) and the other shares duties between my Range Rover and Wifes Jag. The Jag/RR unit does a ton of things that years ago, only a dealer unit could do. I will say that the 997 unit cannot reconfigure the car like the dealer unit. Something like 'Pop Up Spoiler Delete' is out of its range. But for normal modern stuff, its a good unit.
Hope you get to the bottom of your issue pronto.
Hope you get to the bottom of your issue pronto.
#6
Ok, I tried the reader on another car and it worked fine. So, I have a dead obd port. This appears to actually be quite common, and seems to generally be attributable to a) a blown fuse; b) a dmaged connector pin; c) a short or witing problem to the port; or, d) a bad sensor in the system.
The fuses look fine. Porsche (and others) doesn’t tell you which fuse it is. You have to inspect them all closely. Some think it’s
fuse A-10. Some B-2. Oddly, a lot of cars appear to connect it to the lighter power. Again, all of mine look fine.
The reader and cable are new, and although the port appears to be in perfect condition, i was upside down and will inspect it closer tomorrow. From there, I might have to remove the port from the dash and back-test the power leads. If there’s power, then it’s a ground problem. If there’s no power, I’ll have to figure that out.
Then, I would have to check individual sensors by disconnecting them one/one to see when the reader can comminicate. Apparently, once the reader starts communcating, you’ve isolated your bad sensor. But, what if there’s more than one bad one?
I’ve aggregated this from posts, youtube vids and observation. I’ve seen a few of these threads but none really come to a clear conclusion. I’ll try to keep posting as I find out more. All suggestions or additions/corrections appreciated!
The fuses look fine. Porsche (and others) doesn’t tell you which fuse it is. You have to inspect them all closely. Some think it’s
fuse A-10. Some B-2. Oddly, a lot of cars appear to connect it to the lighter power. Again, all of mine look fine.
The reader and cable are new, and although the port appears to be in perfect condition, i was upside down and will inspect it closer tomorrow. From there, I might have to remove the port from the dash and back-test the power leads. If there’s power, then it’s a ground problem. If there’s no power, I’ll have to figure that out.
Then, I would have to check individual sensors by disconnecting them one/one to see when the reader can comminicate. Apparently, once the reader starts communcating, you’ve isolated your bad sensor. But, what if there’s more than one bad one?
I’ve aggregated this from posts, youtube vids and observation. I’ve seen a few of these threads but none really come to a clear conclusion. I’ll try to keep posting as I find out more. All suggestions or additions/corrections appreciated!