Using a jack to loosen caliper bolts
#1
Using a jack to loosen caliper bolts
Hi Folks
I haven't started my DIY yet but I am about to replace the rear rotors on my 997.1 TT.
1. What size hex bit do I need to remove the caliper bolts?
2. Any recommended brand to get and length (matter in this case) ) ?
3. Has anyone used a jack against the wrench to get enough leverage underneath the car in case the bolts are seized?
Thanks for any advice and tips....
I haven't started my DIY yet but I am about to replace the rear rotors on my 997.1 TT.
1. What size hex bit do I need to remove the caliper bolts?
2. Any recommended brand to get and length (matter in this case) ) ?
3. Has anyone used a jack against the wrench to get enough leverage underneath the car in case the bolts are seized?
Thanks for any advice and tips....
#2
Hi Folks
I haven't started my DIY yet but I am about to replace the rear rotors on my 997.1 TT.
1. What size hex bit do I need to remove the caliper bolts?
2. Any recommended brand to get and length (matter in this case) ) ?
3. Has anyone used a jack against the wrench to get enough leverage underneath the car in case the bolts are seized?
Thanks for any advice and tips....
I haven't started my DIY yet but I am about to replace the rear rotors on my 997.1 TT.
1. What size hex bit do I need to remove the caliper bolts?
2. Any recommended brand to get and length (matter in this case) ) ?
3. Has anyone used a jack against the wrench to get enough leverage underneath the car in case the bolts are seized?
Thanks for any advice and tips....
I have not and would not use a jack against the ratchet to get more leverage. Glossing over the questionable safety, it sounds like great way for the wrench to uncontrollably slip off the saddle and dicker the fastener head all to hell, fling the ratchet up into the fender, or whatever.
#3
I like Snap-On hex/torx bits. Some say they're overpriced, I say it's my money and I'll do what I want.
I have not and would not use a jack against the ratchet to get more leverage. Glossing over the questionable safety, it sounds like great way for the wrench to uncontrollably slip off the saddle and dicker the fastener head all to hell, fling the ratchet up into the fender, or whatever.
I have not and would not use a jack against the ratchet to get more leverage. Glossing over the questionable safety, it sounds like great way for the wrench to uncontrollably slip off the saddle and dicker the fastener head all to hell, fling the ratchet up into the fender, or whatever.
#4
Im guessing its a E18 torx, and I bought a set of SK torx just to get that socket and it comes in 1/2" drive
Its very hard but you have to use a 1/2 breaker bar to break them, dont use an impact
Its very hard but you have to use a 1/2 breaker bar to break them, dont use an impact
#5
Don't use a jack, (does not sound safe for reason listed above) get a good breaker bar to loosen them up, then ratchet them off. The leverage you get from the longer handle makes a big difference. So get a ratchet, or breaker bar with a longer handle then what you currently have.
Last edited by ronvanr; 02-03-2018 at 07:01 PM.
#6
Thanks folks. These are advice and input I needed, especially if I too don't have problems removing the bolts. JKW911 ... my set of JackPoints stands are on the way too after waiting 3 months so hoping all goes well. BTW...shout out to Paramount Auto for a great prince on Porsche Rotors.
#7
Thanks folks. These are advice and input I needed, especially if I too don't have problems removing the bolts. JKW911 ... my set of JackPoints stands are on the way too after waiting 3 months so hoping all goes well. BTW...shout out to Paramount Auto for a great prince on Porsche Rotors.
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#8
No need to buy a longer breaker bar, just find a 3' scrap of black pipe with sufficient I.D. to fit over the handle of your current breaker bar. You'll want someone to either work it or hold the bit in place so it doesn't tilt or slip. I might use an impact but I'd turn down the compressor regulator to about 40 lbs or so.