DadeCity997

Hi folks

I've used a lot of great advice and tips by reading from RL members. Well trusted knowledge.
I'm about ready to tackle replacing the rear rotors on my 997TT but before I do, does the E-brake need to be disengaged in order to pull the rotors off?
I've read a lot of what's been posted before but I couldn't find an answer on e-brake position. Maybe this is stating the obvious but I just need to confirm.

The pads look fairly new so no plans to replace those but if I were to change these, how do you remove the pads off the calipers since the rears don't use the retaining pins?
Again, old posts that I found were helpful to a point but I am just curious on how the pads are uninstalled / installed and held in place.

I'll replace the studs also but any other advice, tips, of FYI's before I start would be appreciated as well such as what to do if the rotors are stuck, best drilled rotors to get, etc.
Thanks again.

Quadcammer

Parking brake must be off. if its on you'll never get the rotor off. the rest of your post is a bit haphazard. i can help if you can reorganize your thoughts a bit

Petza914

Replace the metric tapered rotor holding screws with stainless ones while you're at it. Might want to have replacement pad wear sensors on hand as they often break trying to remove them. You should have new pad dampeners as well or anti-squeal paste for the back of the pads during reassembly. Keep the inner and outer pads straight when you remove so you can reinstall the same way. Don't hang the caliper from the brake hose. If you'll be tracking the car, skip the drilled rotors and just do slotted. For street drilled or drilled and slotted.

Johnny DB

What kind of anti squeal paste do you recommend?

Petza914

I've used the Parmatex most often but just used this red CRC one on my son's dirt bike and it seems fine too

DadeCity997

Thanks Quadcammer. Glad to see someone from my home state (J.C., WNY, Waldwick) is first to respond.

What I was trying to explain with the rear calipers is that most of the vids I have seen depict calipers that has the bolt holding down the retaining clip.
Mine does not have that bolt (similar to the PCCBs I think although mine are not ceramic) and I just just wanted some idea how to remove the pads in the future.

Also, would simple hammering of the rotor be enough to release it if it is rusted on without risk of damage? It's always been a Florida car and never in Jersey like me.

Petza914

It would be obvious if they were Ceramic. Rotors would be 2 piece versions with an aluminum hat and the rotor surface would look like ceramic instead of iron. If they're Ceramic they won't rust to anything as the hats are aluminum. Assuming they're plain iron rotors, yes, you can bang them with a mallet or with a hammer, but using a block of wood - don't hit the rotor directly with a regular hammer. If the rotor is rusted on, then the securing screws are also going to be a bugger to get out - best way is with one of those handheld impact tools that you hold to the left and hit with the hammer. Then install stainless ones for next time.

DadeCity997

Thanks Petza914 for the additional advice & tips.

Was planning on replacing all the hardware you mentioned but at this time, not the pads, sensors, and dampeners - which I thought could be reused.

But as you mention, it sounds like once I unbolt the caliper and hang them to the side, that the pads could be loose enough that they could shift or move around out of place while I work on replacing the rotors?
It's not a big deal if they do, I just need to know what to expect after each step.

DadeCity997

Thanks ! Impact tool was just added to my surgical bag. Is a breaker bar gonna be good to have to take the caliper bolts off and is that 63lbs of torque when bolting back up?

Petza914

If you have the OEM pad dampeners that look like these

and you're not replacing the pads, you shouldn't need to replace these or use the anti-squeal. As long as the rubber adhesive part isn't removed from the back of the pad carrier, you'll be able to pop the metal section back into the caliper piston even if they come loose.

The manual says to not reuse the caliper mounting bolts, but I always have, without issue. When I do the next brake job on my RUF 997, I'm going to convert to Rennline's caliper mounting stud kits so that I'm not frequently re-torquing steel bolts into the aluminum wheel carrier threads, which could over time strip them out. Those look like this and with this setup, the stud remains installed in the wheel carrier and only the top 12 point nut is removed and reinstalled.



Yes, proper caliper bolt torque is the 63 ft. lbs. you mention

the_buch

Petza ... is your view that slotted rotors are inappropriate or overkill for the street? Thanks.

Petza914

Nope. I run slotted or drilled and slotted on all my cars, and none are track cars. I don't like drilled for the track because of the cracking that can happen between the holes with the sustained high temps! I like drilled for the street because it gives moisture/steam somewhere to evacuate to when driving in the rain. Have dba slotted on my wife's 997 and Girodisc slotted on my 928. Cayenne any my 997 run PCCBs. Truck is drilled and slotted Baer +2 kit. 914 are drilled.

Quadcammer

They aren't inappropriate necessarily, but they are definitely overkill. Even drilled rotors are overkill for most street driving.

Stock or oem equivalent (sebro, zimmerman, etc) are just fine for a street car.

Glyndellis

I installed the Rennline studs on my car, and really like them. Maybe overkill for a street car, but I don't like have a steel threaded bolt into an aluminum upright.