Wayne Smith

Just changed my plugs on my 997.2. I see no way to do this without pulling the mufflers.

That being said, I would challenge you to look at my mufflers and show me anything that would indicate I removed them.

docdrs

I did the center muffler delete with the x pipe all day long without removing my side mufflers or loosening them . Did remove the bumper tho. Prob didnt have to but that was only to get at the top cat nut, which now after doing it a few times is easy peasy with the bumper on . But then I am assuming by mufflers You mean the side mufflers.

Oh wiat , sorry , i quick to read thought you were talking about the c muffler .......you are referring to the plugs , which you are 100% correct....have to remove the mufflers or at least undo and move to the side ........dont ask me how i know this

matt997

The sleeve as they call it, that joins the center muffler to the side cans is 997.111.220.30. I had to buy 2 of these because they were completely rusted out. $45 each. I'm not sure you can replace just the nut. I'll check tonight.

eagle1960

I have an 09 997.2 as well and am puzzled why you had trouble removing the center muffler with the cat studs in place. I have replaced my CM and removed my Sharkwerkes pipes several times without removing the bumper and am on the original studs. The top cat nut always gives firstimers trouble as it did me until I figured out I need a long ratchet extension and a universal joint. I can probably drop those pipes now in less than 10 minutes easy.

96Tiger

Thanks!

Bruce In Philly

+1

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Shred

It was much harder work than expected, not complicated but tricky to do this mod... here is my story:
I bought the Billy Boat pipes $570, couldn't justify paying more for the AWE or Sharkwerks.
Before committing, I looked online and saw all these people had no problem taking the 6 bolts off their cats, so it made sense for me to do this when I am bored at home.

I put the car's rear on 2 jack stands with 1 jack in place as backup in case of an insane earthquake or 'Final Destination' moment while I was under the car.

Taking the nuts off the catalytic converters were easy enough. The top nut needed a swivel, wasn't difficult but took some time.
The bolts or should I say studs (?), were pressed in and were not coming off. I couldn't get the center muffler off like that, so the next move was to remove the bumper.
I am a very methodical person, I don't like to force anything so getting the bumper off was an obvious choice.

With the bumper off, I managed to remove the center muffler easily.

BTW: I have a Socal car, always garaged with almost no rust to be found anywhere.

Reading what everyone is doing online, it seems logical for me to try and remove the pressed in bolt/stuffs anyway like everyone did.
I have tried hammering them off with heat, they would not move at all, so I gave up. It's time to try putting in the pipes with the existing studs.



Laying on my back for almost 2 hours, I couldn't get it in. It was too tight with the all studs there.
I tried using a jack to lift the different area of the cats to shift some room but it was not working.
I have laid on my back before for 2 hours+ doing Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, but it's time to tap out! I need to get it up on a lift.

I drove one block as-is to a local mechanic I have used for the my other cars. No rear lights, no muffler, no bumper cover, it was LOUD like a race car!
Got it up on the lift and we were able to get the pipes in within 10 minutes after some 'wiggling' around.



However, two of the original studs on each side were too short and he had to grind down the parts which holds/attached to the side muffle. See below part number 9:



Part Number 9 on the diagram needed grinding down on both sides for more clearance for the nut to securely attach.

See how the original studs were too short for the Billy Boat cross pipes. Not enough thread for the nut for me to trust it.


Parts 99711112931 (left hand driver side) and 99711113031(passenger side) needed grinding down. The result...


Now it can be secured.


Drove back home, put the bumper cover, rear lights and exhaust tips back on. Done!
One things, I feel like my tips are hanging lower now, doesn't make any sense. Also my left and right tips would not line up even while being in the same places as before.

96Tiger

Ugh. Maybe I should just let my Indy do it. I like to diy but also don’t want to take the car out of commission for who knows how long due to seized bolts that won’t come out.

FZP

I probably wouldn't do it again. I'm with you

docdrs

iirc the nuts on the sleeves are barrel nuts, mine were rusted and or the bolts seized in them. I bought some aluminum rod ss bolts and fabricated my own, cut drill tap. Have had no issues so far ....or maybe they were the ones the muffler tips.

mercman

For those interested in the bolt source/size, I just replaced all the exhaust hardware on my car following the plug change.

For the cat flange:
2x M8 x 1.25 30mm bolts
4 x M8 x1.25 40mm bolts -- the longer bolt is required to clear the vertical muffler support bracket.
6x M8 flange locking nuts

For the xpipe/center muffler clamps (L&R):
4xM8 x 1.25 carriage bolts with M8 locking flange nuts

I used 316 stainless steel fasteners sourced from McMaster Carr (highly recommend).

Hope this helps.

VT Blue

I would also suggest using copper locking nuts and a liberal dose of copper anti-seize, especially if you're up north as I am (salt).

Credit to @Ironman88 for that suggestion, I might add...wasn't my idea, learned from him.

Thx!

Bob

mercman

yes, a definite must!