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Old 05-24-2017, 08:48 PM
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Hosewater2
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What is the rationale behind changing plugs and coils preemptively rather than wait for a code or misfire? Aren't Porsche's recommendations more lenient on this issue?
Old 05-24-2017, 08:51 PM
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911mhawk
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Originally Posted by salraf
Just wanted to provide an update. I called local SA/SD and told them my history. Since I did have them perform a PPI and only a few minor things were detected (as detailed in the above thread) it seems to them as well that 30K maintenance was probably done.

They are therefore recommending a minor maintenance which would include inspection of all, oil change, cabin and air filter change and I think a brake flush. Quote is $920.

Any thoughts about cost and any suggestions on additional items is appreciated.
I would do ALL the fluids, filters and replace the plugs and coils if they haven't been done ever. If you're not into doing anything yourself, use a Porsche dealer or an independent that is FAMILIAR with the turbo 996. The extra $ for a dealer receipt if you sell will be nice to show, and if not, you know the car is solid to drive for a while.
Old 05-24-2017, 09:10 PM
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"02996ttx50
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Originally Posted by Hosewater2
What is the rationale behind changing plugs and coils preemptively rather than wait for a code or misfire? Aren't Porsche's recommendations more lenient on this issue?
while coils can and do last for many thousands of miles, *tuned* cars seem to eat plugs far more quickly than the factory recommendations would tend to suggest. coils certainly do last longer, but they are relatively inexpensive and i've "pre-emptively" changed coils twice in the 75k miles i've had this particular 96t. while plugs i r&r every 15/(max)20k miles, and the coils well, just because i am "there" and the car runs "better" every time for having done so.

re; the factory manual intervals.. do you really? wanna go 90k miles on trans oil?! i don't lol
Old 05-25-2017, 01:58 AM
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Hosewater2
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Originally Posted by "02996ttx50
re; the factory manual intervals.. do you really? wanna go 90k miles on trans oil?! i don't lol
Nah definitely not, changing fluids and filters makes total sense to me, whereas it seems like the car will tell me when it needs new plugs just like it will tell me if the MAF is bad. Just curious....
Old 05-25-2017, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Hosewater2
Nah definitely not, changing fluids and filters makes total sense to me, whereas it seems like the car will tell me when it needs new plugs just like it will tell me if the MAF is bad. Just curious....
i hear ya and usually my car will as well. but i really never have "breakups" as such. which is why its almost comical i drove around for a cpl months this year with an intermittent boost/idle issue that was ( sure enough ) just a fried maf.

replace and done. i certainly understand the wisdom of having a mafless tuned car. but i'm ok with not confusing the ecu anymore, given how old my current 1.3 is.

and given i say the same things repeatedly,.. i still hasten to add that *tuned* cars can ( and do ) fry mafs when pegging a raised rev limiter. i just dont think the ecu ( or the wire sensor ) can handle the increased volt *spikes* when pegged ( often ).
Old 05-27-2017, 09:24 PM
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salraf
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Originally Posted by Macster
Fuel filter. The filter is rather small and the Turbo uses lots of fuel.

Have the radiator ducts blown out or if the collection of debris is too heavy to remove by compressed air have the bumper cover removed and the debris cleaned out. It gets under/between the condenser/radiator and sometimes the bumper cover has to come off and even the condenser unbolted and gently swung out of the way to remove the trash between it and the radiator.

If tire wear is uneven -- rear tires wearing faster on the inside than outside (or any uneven tire wear) have an alignment done. Driven with reasonable restraint you should get 20K miles out of the rear tires, double that of the fronts.

If the inspection turns up any issues deal with those of course.

Some things can last a long time. My 2003 Turbo went 120K miles on its original front brakes. Clutch had no measurable wear at around 120K miles when the transmission was out for an RMS oil leak.

All 4 O2 sensors were replaced at 132K miles. (Had an O2 sensor error code and given the miles just decided to have them all replaced.) Was a bit pleased to note the engine ran better after new sensors installed.
Told me I got my money's worth out of the old sensors.

Coils were replaced at around 140K/145K miles, along with the plugs. The plugs weren't due for another 10K miles but tech said might as well while he was there for the coils so I had him replace the plugs. In the past plugs alone didn't make any difference but the new coils apparently made a difference because the engine ran better afterwards.

Radiator hoses can be long lived. Even my 2002 Boxster with over 310K miles is on its original hoses. The Turbo with just 155K miles has its original hoses, and coolant tank, too. Both cars get a 4/5 year coolant drain and refill with fresh coolant.

At any rate the inspection will turn up any questionable hoses.

Not a service item per se but I replaced the coolant cap with a newer part #. The original coolant cap can leak. It allows vapor to escape when the car is parked with the engine particularly hot -- such as is the case if the radiator fans are running and the A/C is not on -- and the heat load raises the coolant temperature/pressure which forces vapor out past the cap.

thanks for all the advice. I will be taking it to Livermore Porsche this week. I will make sure that radiator hoses are looked at and ask about coolant flush and fuel filter.



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