Battery change in an 04 996TT
#3
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My experience in replacing a bad but not completely dead battery in my 2003 Turbo is I switched batteries quick enough the trip odometer and clock and radio settings remained unchanged. The seat memory and mirror memory was unaffected as well.
But if you are not as quick as I, you can see a warning on the dash about a steering position sensor. The techs tell me with a bit of driving this should go away on its own.
The E-Gas should be recalibrated. With the key off and your foot off the gas pedal during this procedure turn the key on and leave on for at least 60 seconds. After at least 60 seconds turn the key off and leave off for at least 10 seconds. The next time the engine is started the calibration will be done.
The window limits need to be reset. Press and hold the window lower button until the window is all the way down. Release the lower button and then press and hold the raise button until the window is all the way up and continue to press the raise button at least another 5 seconds. Repeat the procedure with the other window.
With the battery replacement, the DME can lose its learned fuel adaptations (long term fuel trims) but it will relearn these as the engine runs, the car is driven.
Try to avoid scheduling a smog test immediately after a battery swap. It can take some time for the DME to complete all the readiness monitor tests and set all the readiness monitors to complete.
Be very careful that you disconnect the old battery in the right order and connect the new battery in the correct order. I always look these up in the owners manual.
I buy my replacement battery at the dealer. It sells the Interstate brand. I use the size of battery -- physical size -- and AH's and CCA's recommended by Porsche. I don't recall off hand the specifications. From the Porsche 996 The Essential Companion the 996 Turbo came with an 80AH battery with 380CCA's.
#5
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Buy an AGM, it should last longer and there is no chance of acid dripping into the structure under the firewall.
http://www.sears.com/diehard-advance...ype=SKIP_LEVEL
http://www.sears.com/diehard-advance...ype=SKIP_LEVEL
#7
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Thanks. I think I made a mistake. I think I used "CCA" when I should have used "A". I just checked the factory manual and the battery spec is 80AH and 380A. I do not know what the CCA should be but 790 is in the ballpark of what I recall/remember.
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#8
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^ we both know which batteries to use by now. I'm on my 6th lol. how about you? i also keep using interstate since aaa brings 'em in a truck to the wrench!!
i.e. the place where jewish cowboys batteries die. hah
happy T'Day btw.
i.e. the place where jewish cowboys batteries die. hah
happy T'Day btw.
#10
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my Interstate in GT2 is many years old now without any signs of deterioration...that said, Interstate does have their faulty ones too...I always suggest buying a battery with a good useable warranty, if you get a lemon just swap it out...
#11
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#12
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nice thing about interstate and aaa battery service is with their two year unconditional warranty ( 5 yrs conditional ) they not only deliver and install, my most recent call to them resulted in a roadside battery replacement that was 100% "free" since i was 2 months shy of the two yr warranty expiration. cant beat that!
#14
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^ exactly wondered the same thing. two years even for this voltage hog is far too premature for the battery to fail. but fail it did. i usually trickle charge it but have been slacking on it. now that the new one doesn't need it! I'm attaching the ctek weekly.
that said, I've never had a car with more electrical demands than these, or seemingly excessive parasitic drain while parked.
that said, I've never had a car with more electrical demands than these, or seemingly excessive parasitic drain while parked.
#15
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Sometimes car batteries just go bad prematurely. $h!t happens.