spooltime

I think I've read about every post on multiple forums about the coolant pipe repair, but don't recall seeing a discussion about the best method for removing / cleaning off the factory installed glue (that fails) in the cast housing. I'm planning ahead to do a pre-emptive repair and will probably have the replacement fittings welded in the four housings rather than re-welding the factory supplied fittings.

So what's the best way to clean up the residual glue after the housing has been heated up and the glued-in fittings removed?

911mhawk

Why bother if you are welding them?
Hot antifreeze?

Chris996

ultrasonic cleaner to ensure that it can be properly welded.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...-retrofit.html

32krazy!

Hour not welding inside the housing but rather the outside edge. Wire wheel cleans that

Kevinmacd

Heres a great video on the repair process

https://video.search.yahoo.com/video...hrtab-854&tt=b

Essexmetal

Every year I average at least 5 sets of coolant pipes I weld up for local shops. This year the PCA DE Tech committee mandated that the "fix" be required. Always looking for ways to mitigate insurance claim issues. This has increased the amount of fixes through the shop and it is the same observation one every one. To the OP's question. You do not need to worry about removing any adhesive residue from the casting bore. None of it sticks there. As seen in the video above.... the bore is clean, shinny and super smooth. I would say that is one of the main reasons for the failure. There is no "tooth" for the adhesive to grip to. Granted the factory adhesive is crap but it has little chance on the glass smooth surface. The adhesive residue stays on the tube and is easy to buff off.

If you are going to weld the tubes they still must be extracted and all traces of adhesive removed. You do not want any of it gassing off and effecting the weld. For those who would rather pin the tubes a note on a recent experience. There is one rubber hose socket on the turbo that is very close to one of the small coolant pipes. Rather than weld in a tight area I chose leave the tube in place and pin it. Guess which one had a small leak when pressure testing. No hope of failure and the coolant would never make it to the ground. Just will never be a great seal as long as that crap adhesive is in there. Unpinned and welded as was done with previous sets. No more short cuts, at least it proved that pinning is not the best fix.

If you don't weld them, the method Martin uses looks very good. Just rough up the bores a lot.