Mike72

Thanks very much for the detailed response. I am ready to pull the trigger on a car and have narrowed it down to 2 cars.

A FULLY documented 2001 being sold by its second owner. Extremely clean car with ZERO mods at 130,000km asking 50,000$ CDN

or

A well documented 2003 X50 with aftermarket intake and exhaust at 51,000km with its fourth owner (Originally US car) asking 64,000$ CDN

The 2001 has literally every document associated with the car including all manuals, all keys, all maintenance history from day 1 and the original deposit receipt. It just had a full engine out service less than 1000km ago including clutch, flywheel, coolant pipes, brakes, accumulator, slave, etc. Receipts total over 10,000$ for that job alone. If I didn't see the odometer I would think that the car has less than 50,000 km on it as it is immaculate. Seller has no problem with a PPI being done at Porsche before purchase.

The 2003 has some maintenance history but not all and was originally sold in PA, then spend a few years in Texas, then to BC, Alberta then Ontario. It had a clutch and flywheel done at some point in the past but I am unsure of what the mileage was. This makes me a little nervous as under 50,000 km seems early for a clutch.

I am buying this car as a weekend toy and would likely put no more than 2000km a year on it. I would obviously like to loose the least amount of money in the end if I do ever decide to sell so what do you guys think is the better option?

Freddie Two Bs

I'm a sucker for fully documented cars, so I'd lean towards the 01, but that's just me.

kmagnuss

my vote is for the '01

T10Chris

I hate to be the one to say this, I've seen this posted a couple of times now and it is not accurate. The DME does not monitor cylinder compression or output.. It can tell you if there is an ignition or fueling issue, but to imply that it checks the compression of cylinders is misleading. It will give a code if low compression causes a misfire or other issue, but there is no way to monitor cylinder to cylinder compression or variation to determine health of an engine.

I've explored many many many functions of our DME using PIWIS and Durametric-- if this is something that I have missed somehow, I'd love to be shown the feature and programming/sensors that tracks this.

Mike72

Thanks for all the input guys but someone snapped up the 03 and the seller of the 01 decided to keep it. Looks like the search continues.

Third-Reef

Poor man's compression test using the durametric. You can turn off each injector one by one. Someone with a good ear and feel can tell if the change in the engine is the same for all cyls. If one has less change then it is weaker than the rest. Like pulling plug wires on an old chevy, except you don't get zapped.

rdynamix

I've been reading this post and would like your opinion...

Thinking about a 996 TT Cab as an addition to my garage.

Option one would be a 10K-20K mile car with the intention of keeping the miles very low
(about 1K per year) and holding value. These seem to be available in the low USD50Ks range.

Option two would be a 30K-40K car which I would drive a little more possibly 2K miles per year.
These can be had in the low USD40Ks. So about 10K less to buy.

From a mid term value perspective (3-5 years to resale) which one would you pick?

Thanks!

Saoirse32

I think most on this forum, myself included, would recommend the "best" stock TT you can find. I'd rather have a higher mileage car that's well sorted than a lower mileage one with little records or history. Also, and perhaps most importantly from an investment perspective, is look for a manual coupe and forego the cab. My 2 cents...good luck!

Berra

Do not add the cab! And do NOT add tip! Tip + cab = might aswell jump off a plane without parachute.

Kidding aside, do as you wish as it's your money and taste but, cabs seem to not hold value as good as the coupe. Manual vs tip is a difference too.

rdynamix

Thanks!

I'm definitely seeking a manual.

After looking at prices from all auctions and any other sources I didn't find much of a difference between the cab and the coupe. I also found some historical pricing that led me to conclude prices on the 996 TT manuals have been pretty static for the past 2-3 years. Both for cabs and coupes.

What leads you to think the coupe would be best than the cab long term?

Thanks for sharing your opinion!

leftlane

Crazy talk on the cabs vs coupes. I have an 04 cab and I wouldn't part with it for any price that starts with a 4. Do agree manual versus tip but have no idea why you'd think cabs lose more value than coupes. Throw a hardtop on and you have the best of both worlds.

Saoirse32

Why would I think cabs lose more values-
Have you looked at prices?

Berra

They (coupe) are sharper to drive, body stiffness gives you a better driving experience. Lighter, stiffer and faster!

Most "purists" will tell you that a 911 should be a coupe and nothing else. Majority of the collector Porsches are coupe. I'm in Europe and prices here aren't the same, cabs are usually cheaper.

What is positive with the cab though is that there aren't many built.

Most importantly, it's your choice. There is no right or wrong, do as you wish or like.

shneapfla

I'm checking prices in Europe too, but I couldn't find that?!
I only know the numbers from the TTS, there were 600odd coupes and 960 cabs...
Amen.

If you don't get (most of) your interest on the road, you choose the wrong investment!

Berra

I'm speaking of total units. Cabs are way way less.