After reading posts both here and 6speed I think I'm ready to tackle this diy. I have a few questions though.

My sensors have not tripped yet, are they easy to reuse or should I just buy new.

Do I need to apply brake quiet to the back of pads?

Can I get away with the "cheaper pads" I don't track just street? (Any recommendations)

Do I need to sand the edges of the new pads?

Am I right that I don't need to mess with bleeding the brakes?

 

yes, you can just replace with some mintex or textar oem replacement pads and you won't need to swap the sensors or mess with them, add'l proviso being that the rotors are also within spec. just swap.

 

Swap the rotors? Car has 34k miles on it and pads are at about 35-40%

I don't have a tool to measure rotor thickness as of yet.

 

sorry, i meant "swap" as in just swap the pads without anything else necessary..so then you won't need rotors. i don't remember needing them for several pad changes.

just bed the pads properly after install.

 

Thanks bud! I'm surprised how easy it seems to do. Looks like most tedious part wheel be jacking/wheel removal

As far as bedding I've heard a few schools of thought.

Sand the pad face and 45 degree on edges. Then couple 65 to 20 mph stops with progressive force on brakes. That about right?

 

Why not wait until the wear sensor signals the pads are worn? Might as well get your money's worth out of the brake hardware.

You can reuse the sensors.

If the brake pad backing plates have anti-squeal pads attached you can separate the backing plate from the pad with a large putty knife and reuse the anti-squeal pads. Check the official parts list. In some cases Porsche has dropped the anti-squeal pads from the parts list as the anti-squeal pads were not found to be necessary.

I have not tried any cheap pads. I just use what the Porsche parts department supplies.

No need to chamfer the pads.

If the rotors have a 1mm lip -- about the thickness of a penny -- they are close to being if not worn out, worn to their mininum thickness.

You do not have to bleed the brakes unless the brakes are due for this service. It is supposed to be done every 2 years.

Still unless this bleeding was just recently done I'd recommend you do it. Pushing the pads in and then out again can loosen up some trash that can abrade the piston and its seals.

To avoid any brake fluid spills out of the reservior you should remove some with a turkey baster.

After the brake job take the car out and test the brakes then if all is ok bed them in.

No need to get all crazy. I've found a few hard braking events from say highway speed (70mph or thereabouts) to around 35mph or so one right after the other beds in the brakes sufficiently. Be sure you do not bring the car to a stop during this bedding in process and afterwards drive the car around long enough to make sure the brakes cool down.

Couple of tips: I do one wheel at a time to leave the other as a reference in case I need it. After I remove the wheel I spread out some newspapers under the brake/wheel hub and spray the hardware with some aerosol brake cleaner to remove as much grime/brake dust as I can.

I always replace all the other brake hardware, the pad retainer that holds the pads in place, the locking pin that holds this retainer in place, and its spring clip. If I replace the rotors I replace the brake caliper bolts and even the small flat head screws the hold the rotor to the hub.

Porsche offers a brake hardware kit that contains all the new hardware for each axle for a reasonable price. I'm not sure -- that is can't recall now -- if it contains the caliper bolts but if it doesn't I order these too.

 

Here's what concerns me the pin looks like it will hit the rotors before the pads wear. Is this normal. Drivers front




Drivers rear

 

If I'm seeing this correctly I really think you still have quite a fair bit of pad life left and if were me I wouldn't change them.

 

So what's up with those round pins being so close to the rotor?

 

I'm not too sure, hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.

 

plenty of pad life left...continue to enjoy
pins never move, fixed caliper design.
Cheers,

 

I knew you would chime in Rob. There you go, just drive and enjoy.

 

Cheers Jim!

 

to answer some initial questions:
-sanding/chamfering the leading edges never hurts and often quiets the brakes,
-IMO, avoid 'brake quiet', goops etc on fixed calipers
-buy an OEM pad (TRW,Textar/Pagid) for street
-if you care about the car, ALWAYS bleed the brakes while you are in there...even a couple pedal pumps, or say 1 litre per car/0.25L per caliper is very beneficial to the hydraulic system

 

[QUOTE=Atrox;13283347]Here's what concerns me the pin looks like it will hit the rotors before the pads wear. Is this normal. Drivers front




Those red "pins" coming out of the caliper don't move. They are totally independent from the pads/Pistons. They'll never get any closer (or further) from the rotor.