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Spoiler fail light

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Old 03-09-2016, 11:12 PM
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saline
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Default Spoiler fail light

my 04 tt gets a spoiler fail light that goes on when it is supposed to retract after slowing down. I can retract it with the switch though. It deploys automatically, just a problem retracting. The dash light stays on. Any thoughts about where to start looking? I assume there are limit switches. Is there a way to get to them to check, or are they buried in the rams?
Old 03-10-2016, 01:00 AM
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DaveCarrera4
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Originally Posted by saline
my 04 tt gets a spoiler fail light that goes on when it is supposed to retract after slowing down. I can retract it with the switch though. It deploys automatically, just a problem retracting. The dash light stays on. Any thoughts about where to start looking? I assume there are limit switches. Is there a way to get to them to check, or are they buried in the rams?
I have the troubleshooting guide from the factory on my website, here: rennkit.com/why-factory-set-fails. Scroll to the bottom.
Old 03-10-2016, 03:04 PM
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saline
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Excellent. It looks like I need to check the micro switches. what does "POSES" mean in the section that says, " Rear spoiler retracts normally --> Check the microswitch for monitoring the upper and lower end position of the rear spoiler, see POSES"?
Old 03-10-2016, 06:54 PM
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DaveCarrera4
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No idea. An acronym for something control related...
Old 03-10-2016, 06:56 PM
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Drinaldis
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POSES = Piece of **** electronic switch
Old 03-10-2016, 07:26 PM
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Search for and Read this Rennlist thread.
Beta Testers Needed for Electric Spoiler Rams

Old 03-10-2016, 08:10 PM
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Atrox
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Originally Posted by Drinaldis
POSES = Piece of **** electronic switch
Old 03-10-2016, 11:23 PM
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DaveCarrera4
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Originally Posted by fpb111
Search for and Read this Rennlist thread. Beta Testers Needed for Electric Spoiler Rams
:-). Thanks!!!
Old 03-11-2016, 04:44 PM
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saline
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that eRam appears to be a great solution, but I need to do some trouble shooting first. I couldn't find "POSES" referenced anywhere in that thread.
Old 03-11-2016, 10:08 PM
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"02996ttx50
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3 options. all will work with varying degrees of success and oem operability.

re-bleed it. your fluid in the ram receptacle(s) is low ( COMMON )
buy or make a fixed wing "kit" to have to stay permanently deployed "up". i have one you can buy.

better still buy dave's ( above ) e-ram "kit" and eliminate the ever problemetic hydraulics of the stupid movable wing once once and for all. ( BEST ) and his electric kit will end all you your flaccid wing issues. which will otherwise continue. periodically. unless you swap with dave's electrically driven kit, which is largely fail proof as long as you have electrics lol

my solution is to rebleed them every 3-5 years and they work fine, but its a PITA. for an hour. pick your pain.
Old 03-13-2016, 11:17 PM
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saline
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Thanks all. I agree 100% and will do the 4"e-ram. Looks like a better design, more functional and quicker response. I just have to recover from some of the other costs incurred over the last year.



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