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obviously that completely depends on how you drive it. if you drive it like i do 5000 is a greta amount. moderate drivers will get more time.
the rebuild kit is less than 1000$ and doesnt require the trans to be dropped otu. simply slide it back and tilt it on a trans jack and pull the p/p and disks out replace them.
I drive pretty gentle these days. My Supra was a lot of power, mainly highway pulls (typical Supra stuff lol).. Did a few drag strip events, test and tune days mostly and 1 competitive event. I was really disappointed when it started slipping after a few months considering it was a $5000+ clutch setup.
I daily the 996TT and I don't have lofty power goals, I want a setup with a powerband for road course events; I like to overbuild just in case things change in the future and the power bug bites. I loved the driving manners of that clutch in my Supra and the feel.. Sounds a lot like it was in my Supra, a great setup for a race car, but I don't think its longevity fits a car that is frequently street driven..
I drive pretty gentle these days. My Supra was a lot of power, mainly highway pulls (typical Supra stuff lol).. Did a few drag strip events, test and tune days mostly and 1 competitive event. I was really disappointed when it started slipping after a few months considering it was a $5000+ clutch setup.
I daily the 996TT and I don't have lofty power goals, I want a setup with a powerband for road course events; I like to overbuild just in case things change in the future and the power bug bites. I loved the driving manners of that clutch in my Supra and the feel.. Sounds a lot like it was in my Supra, a great setup for a race car, but I don't think its longevity fits a car that is frequently street driven..
Thanks for your honest review on the product
i hear what your saying. but do remember this isnt a 5k$ clutch. 2500 for the twin and 2700 for the triple. eliminating the slave is huge in terms of repair so for the right person its a great clutch. the ability to handle 1000 ft/lbs doesnt hurt!
i hear what your saying. but do remember this isnt a 5k$ clutch. 2500 for the twin and 2700 for the triple. eliminating the slave is huge in terms of repair so for the right person its a great clutch. the ability to handle 1000 ft/lbs doesnt hurt!
I noticed that the price is significantly cheaper than what I paid. Is this a carbon clutch?
I agree, the slave elimination is great.. The hydraulic throw-out bearing is a really nice piece. Also for big power goals this would be hands-down the clutch I would select.. If I used my car only occasionally even with lower power levels this would be high on my list. If I only I could make myself stop daily driving my car... Its just too much fun!
I noticed that the price is significantly cheaper than what I paid. Is this a carbon clutch?
I agree, the slave elimination is great.. The hydraulic throw-out bearing is a really nice piece. Also for big power goals this would be hands-down the clutch I would select.. If I used my car only occasionally even with lower power levels this would be high on my list. If I only I could make myself stop daily driving my car... Its just too much fun!
i hear what your saying. but do remember this isnt a 5k$ clutch. 2500 for the twin and 2700 for the triple. eliminating the slave is huge in terms of repair so for the right person its a great clutch. the ability to handle 1000 ft/lbs doesnt hurt!
I go back and forth with this. 2.5 Vs Twin. At the end of the day, my car may see ~600whp.
I had an OS Giken Triple in my R32 GT-R back in the day and it sucked @ss to drive anywhere but on the track. Plus is was noisy as all get.
How is the driveability? I understand that's a subjective question.
I go back and forth with this. 2.5 Vs Twin. At the end of the day, my car may see ~600whp.
I had an OS Giken Triple in my R32 GT-R back in the day and it sucked @ss to drive anywhere but on the track. Plus is was noisy as all get.
How is the driveability? I understand that's a subjective question.
personally i dint have the tilton in my car i have the erp triple c/f. just to clarify. i HAVE however been in a car at 1000 hp that does have the tilton double in it and theres zero chatter. none. this clutch was installed the night i got there so it was grabby at first. a few days in it was docile and ready for action. driveability was fine and if i didnt know it was a tilton i would have thought stock since theres no noise.
what i found truly interesting was the clutch disk swap itself. since theres no slave it took less than 3 hrs for a complete disk swap. support the trans drop/tilt it so it can slide the mainshaft out and remove the p/p and disks. new parts in slide the trans back in place and BAM! its done. super slick.
Ahhhh.. Now seeing this and going back and reading your first post about the Tilton, I think maybe this is a much different type of Tilton than I used. I had triple carbon disks and the entire setup including the flywheel was under 10 lbs.. sounds like the technology in this Tilton is not quite as exotic and is actually probably much more friendly.
Also just noticed you mention its not in your car.. Maybe this style/design of Tilton is capable of much longer life. Something more for me to look into
i hear what your saying. but do remember this isnt a 5k$ clutch. 2500 for the twin and 2700 for the triple. eliminating the slave is huge in terms of repair so for the right person its a great clutch. the ability to handle 1000 ft/lbs doesnt hurt!
I hate to break it to you, but that style of slave cylinder fails as well. Other car makes have them from the factory. And when (not if) it does fail, you have to remove the transmission to get at it. That's a bunch more labor than replacing the existing 996TT slave cylinder, but I'm sure it is a cheaper part, so it may end up being a similar replacement cost.
Does the Tilton require a pedal stop? I would imagine it does. Also internal slave will fail and Tilton setups are not made to be daily driven they wear pretty fast in my experience and warp If slipped for to much. We have run them in every daytona prototype, world challenge supra and nissan 370z gs car.
sounds like the technology in this Tilton is not quite as exotic and is actually probably much more friendly.
Also just noticed you mention its not in your car.. Maybe this style/design of Tilton is capable of much longer life. Something more for me to look into
its very street friendly. the only reason i dont have the tilton is because i already had a nearly new erp triple disk c/f clutch and dont care about the chatter.
Originally Posted by dprantl
I hate to break it to you, but that style of slave cylinder fails as well. Other car makes have them from the factory. And when (not if) it does fail, you have to remove the transmission to get at it. That's a bunch more labor than replacing the existing 996TT slave cylinder, but I'm sure it is a cheaper part, so it may end up being a similar replacement cost.
Dan
since the hydrualic t/o bearing for the tilton only needs the 2 guide tube bolts to mount it its no more work to replace if needed than the disks. no need to drop the trans just tilt it down and reach inside the remove the hoses and bolts slide it off and replace. i will say any part that is moving or has fluid run thru it is subject to failure. not having to remove a clutch fork rod, clutch fork and drop the entire trans to get to the t/o bearing is were the savings come in. knowing the failure rate of the porsche slave ill risk a tilton setup when and if i ever wear out my c/f setup
Originally Posted by Fishey
Does the Tilton require a pedal stop? I would imagine it does. Also internal slave will fail and Tilton setups are not made to be daily driven they wear pretty fast in my experience and warp If slipped for to much. We have run them in every daytona prototype, world challenge supra and nissan 370z gs car.
i dont why it would need a stop any more than any other aftermarket clutch. as long as the setup is done properly muscle memory does the job just fine. a stock slave is sloppy at best. the gt2 which is what i have is infinitly better. and honestly its a race clutch.this forum focuses on more 600 hp road racing than the 6so which deals with 1000 hp and up cars. anything above 700 ft/lbs the sachs 2.5 wont last the stock certainly wont last and i would rather take a brick to the head than drive with a clutchmasters setup of any kind. this clutch is docile and strong. street friendly and decently priced. if theres a better setup out there i havent seen it
you guys that drag race your porsches deserve whatever you get. this triple ttilton madness is in included in that estimation.
the porsche 996 turbo. the rich man's miata. you guys are just un- fkn believable. sacrilege is what it is LOL.
put oem sachs components in your car and know they were built for it.
I'm gonna assume this was directed towards me. If it wasn't disregard.
How do you know I'm "overparting" my car? I'm not 100% sure what my plans are for this ca,r so how can you? And by some power from beyond you DO know what my plans are, can you tell me so I don't buy parts twice! LOL
At the end of the day, I'm not a drag racer. Does that mean my car won't see the track? No, it probably will a time or two.
I'm not sure if the Sach 2.5 will be strong enough for what my car may end up. So, for nearly the same cost of investment and it sounds like similar diveability, why wouldn't I go with the stronger option?
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