crabby_carlo is more like it....

 

At least I am not drunk.

 

POC here in SoCal has this in their GCRs Page 20. welded, pinned, or water wetter.

https://porscheclubracing.org/wp-con...f-11-29-15.pdf

Cup car components are timed out and replaced and those cars do not see the heat cycles the street cars do. Fact.

 

Sounds good. As I was originally saying the choice you make depends what the events require.

 

Additional compound around each might help, surely not the same as pulling them as in the video. JB weld as in the video is great stuff.

 

First one done.



Additional compound added.

 

thanks for the link.
Good point on the time-outs as well.
Goodstuff!

 

My shop had concerns about welding ... Either quality or maybe thickness of metal. Can't recall. Mine were pinned. YRMV.

 

I researched and debated A LOT before making my decision, also talked with a number of my good friends who are serious fab/welders, and one who is also the chief mechanic for a cargo jet liner. They all were concerned about porosity and HAZ/embrittlement issues long-term, and strongly suggested the pinning; done deal. If they were to do it, inserts like BBi's would be the way to go.
My decision was solely on what I/my connections thought was the best solution long-term, not cost(near free for me anyways) or effort...in 10/20/50 years, if a fitting fails due to stress or corrosion, I can pull it out and install a new one.
I am not saying people who have welded pipe WILL experience these issues, but they were concerns I preferred to avoid.
Cheers,
Rob

 

that's a you problem. had you said "at least I am not A drunk",, that could be a me problem...


jb

 

I believe it is a national PCA rule that all 7GT3s and 6gt3s and turbos be pinned, welded or water wetter. I could be wrong but I know that is the rule for my region, and it has been like that for about 2 years now. Regarding cup cars, I believe most of the races require water wetter in the rules.
I ran water wetter last season and switched back to antifreeze in the fall.

 

+1, and regarding Cup cars it does make sense for them to run water +WW
So far on the Cup thread, 2 guys with engines at PMNA for rebuild, both having them re-glued as per PMNA..

 

There is no such rule for PCA DE's in the Carolinas or at VIR.
However I still have my 996T coolant lines pinned.

 

I've heard this from other outside sources as well, though rarely discussed on these forums.

Specifically, for non-failed connections, to add a fillet of marine JB weld at the base of the pipe/casting interface much like one would do with a weld. This is instead of pinning.

Pinning, does not in itself prevent a failure. It just prevents a catastrophic failure. The original glue/seal can still fail from which point a pinning fitting will weep.

Theoretically, a fillet of JB weld will hold the pipe pretty darn well and add to the seal.

Anyone had experience doing it this way?

 

I'd think if you cleaned up the metal first this would help prevent pipes leaking. Maybe someones done it to stop a leak already?
I'm pinning mine while the engine is out and figure if it ever starts leaking that I'll weld it. Under 20k on my engine and don't feel it's necessary, just want to prevent a big dump at the track. they may hold for a long time and I'd just be throwing more $ at it now versus another time when the water pump and othe raccessories are off.