For anyone with pinned coolant lines.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For anyone with pinned coolant lines.
Hey guys. Car is in the shop to have my coolant lines pinned. Although I haven't had an issue, I don't want it to potential be an issue, so I decided to get this done. I'm also replacing the water pump, thermostat, coolant expansion tank, and several other items while the motor is out.
That said, I'd like to hear from others who have had this done, what type of adhesive was used, and if any adhesive was used to seal the oem adhesive?
Seems loctite is the way to go.
Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).
I know there is a ton of info available, just curious to see what is commonly done/used.
That said, I'd like to hear from others who have had this done, what type of adhesive was used, and if any adhesive was used to seal the oem adhesive?
Seems loctite is the way to go.
Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).
I know there is a ton of info available, just curious to see what is commonly done/used.
#2
Rennlist Member
For actual gluing of metal components a good true two part adhesive is best. Threadlocker is used to keep studs and bolts from backing out, such as in header bolts if you dont get the mechanical locks.
#4
typically pinning is done when there aren't any leaking fittings. red liocktite on the threads of the 6mm allen bolts. if a fitting has come loose clean the firing liberally coat it with jb weld and reinsert. let cure completely then drill and pin as you would the others.
fwiw i have done 2 motors. 1 pinned 1 welded. i prefer the welding since its a permanent fix that you never have to revisit. motor out for both. pinning can be done in the car welding has to be with the motor out
fwiw i have done 2 motors. 1 pinned 1 welded. i prefer the welding since its a permanent fix that you never have to revisit. motor out for both. pinning can be done in the car welding has to be with the motor out
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diverzeusy (10-29-2023)
#6
+1, and you can use any size bolts you prefer/easily available
Red Loctite on the threads
I prefer pinning to welding, 25k km on mine since I did it...my original epoxy was 'perfect' and I left it as-is
Red Loctite on the threads
I prefer pinning to welding, 25k km on mine since I did it...my original epoxy was 'perfect' and I left it as-is
typically pinning is done when there aren't any leaking fittings. red liocktite on the threads of the 6mm allen bolts. if a fitting has come loose clean the firing liberally coat it with jb weld and reinsert. let cure completely then drill and pin as you would the others.
fwiw i have done 2 motors. 1 pinned 1 welded. i prefer the welding since its a permanent fix that you never have to revisit. motor out for both. pinning can be done in the car welding has to be with the motor out
fwiw i have done 2 motors. 1 pinned 1 welded. i prefer the welding since its a permanent fix that you never have to revisit. motor out for both. pinning can be done in the car welding has to be with the motor out
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diverzeusy (10-29-2023)
#7
Its dependent on the situation. If the motor is out i weld them if its in i pin them
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#8
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
A few race tracks, race organizers and HPDE organizers are now requiring welding, pinning is not secure enough for them and their insurance. So depending on what you plan to do with you TT that can make the welding/pinning decision for you.
That said if I drove my TT only on the street I wouldn't bother with preemptive welding or pinning. I would wait for a failure.
That said if I drove my TT only on the street I wouldn't bother with preemptive welding or pinning. I would wait for a failure.
#9
Can't go wrong either way, as long as its 'done'
Haven't heard this, what tracks/associations? Don't see how they would come to that conclusion...
FWIW, factory racers are not welded...
FWIW, factory racers are not welded...
A few race tracks, race organizers and HPDE organizers are now requiring welding, pinning is not secure enough for them and their insurance. So depending on what you plan to do with you TT that can make the welding/pinning decision for you.
That said if I drove my TT only on the street I wouldn't bother with preemptive welding or pinning. I would wait for a failure.
That said if I drove my TT only on the street I wouldn't bother with preemptive welding or pinning. I would wait for a failure.
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Some factory race engines are welded, some use threaded connector fittings, some use what looked like a one piece water manifold. None that I have seen are glued and pinned.
#11
I had a quick search in both 6/7 GT forums but haven't found anything yet, maybe post a link? I know PCA required all GT1/Mezger engines be welded OR pinned...
Cup cars are neither pinned nor welded, RSR's got threaded fittings. Some Cup cars after the fact were pinned or welded by indy race shops.
Cup cars are neither pinned nor welded, RSR's got threaded fittings. Some Cup cars after the fact were pinned or welded by indy race shops.
There was an event at Pocono last year that had maditory coolant pipe welding right on the application form. A member here by the name of gofishracing posted a copy of it in the GT3 forum. If you PM him I am sure he cab forward it to you. There were other events at various tracks here in the northeast USA last year with the same requirement. Those were also posted on various forums. I am sure this will come again in the spring so we can follow where this leads.
Some factory race engines are welded, some use threaded connector fittings. None that I have seen are glued and pinned.
Some factory race engines are welded, some use threaded connector fittings. None that I have seen are glued and pinned.
#12
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I had a quick search in both 6/7 GT forums but haven't found anything yet, maybe post a link? I know PCA required all GT1/Mezger engines be welded OR pinned...
Cup cars are neither pinned nor welded, RSR's got threaded fittings. Some Cup cars after the fact were pinned or welded by indy race shops.
Cup cars are neither pinned nor welded, RSR's got threaded fittings. Some Cup cars after the fact were pinned or welded by indy race shops.
I do not have a link. It was posted many months ago in one of the "blown coolant pipe reporting" threads. The poster is someone I know, gofishracing. He has a yellow 996 GT3. He posts in the GT3 forums all the time. Find him and shoot him a PM he will send you the application I wrote about.
I have seen brand new factory fresh Cup cars with welded or threaded fittings.
#13
Instructor
There was an event at Pocono last year that had maditory coolant pipe welding right on the application form. A member here by the name of gofishracing posted a copy of it in the GT3 forum. If you PM him I am sure he can forward it to you. There were other events at various tracks here in the northeast USA last year with the same requirement. Those were also posted on various forums. I am sure this will come again in the spring so we can follow where this leads.
BBI's recent post pertaining to their weld in inserts now makes some sense... a few comments alluded to overkill, but if they were connected and saw this coming how better to get out in front of it? the OE inserts, per what ive read are not for any two bit welder to undertake. as I recall BBI's units have a thickened edge where it seats with the manifolds. this in my estimation might make it easier for a welder to get a good seal bead laid down with two more like thickness pieces. maybe BBI was lucky, or good with seemed like an overkill at the outset.
jb
#14
I know who you are talking about, I follow the GT forums far more then the Turbo forum...IIRC he posted exactly what I have said, PIN OR WELD, he is a PCA instructor and that is PCA's stance
I have created a thread in the Cup Car forum to confirm/deny welding from factory. https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...996-997-a.html
I have created a thread in the Cup Car forum to confirm/deny welding from factory. https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...996-997-a.html
I do not have a link. It was posted many months ago in one of the "blown coolant pipe reporting" threads. The poster is someone I know, gofishracing. He has a yellow 996 GT3. He posts in the GT3 forums all the time. Find him and shoot him a PM he will send you the application I wrote about.
I have seen brand new factory fresh Cup cars with welded or threaded fittings.
I have seen brand new factory fresh Cup cars with welded or threaded fittings.
#15
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I know who you are talking about, I follow the GT forums far more then the Turbo forum...IIRC he posted exactly what I have said, PIN OR WELD, he is a PCA instructor and that is PCA's stance
I have created a thread in the Cup Car forum to confirm/deny welding from factory.
I have created a thread in the Cup Car forum to confirm/deny welding from factory.
I am not sure what starting a thread does. I saw what I saw and can provide pictures the next time I am at a racetrack in April. And it still doesn't change the fact that no factory race cars from Porsche come with the coolant fittings pinned.
Last edited by Carlo_Carrera; 01-21-2016 at 09:56 PM.