All-Aluminum Radiators
#31
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will be doing a side-by-side comparison vs. the factory stuff...
I know CSF and myself are both pretty excited about what has come about...
Cheers,
I know CSF and myself are both pretty excited about what has come about...
Cheers,
#33
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thanks, CSF did a nice job!
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#34
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Good news to everyone who has ordered a set.. All orders have been shipped out.
Rob,
I look forward to your review of our cooling system.. Please keep us all updated!
Rob,
I look forward to your review of our cooling system.. Please keep us all updated!
#35
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write-up coming soon, working on install right now...it's nice stuff guys...
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#36
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#38
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Thanks Dan, was going to say the exact same thing; coming from beat-up factory original 2003 rads to fresh/new won't show fair data right off the hop.
TB993TT, just want to mention that 100% my main interest in the rads is for sake of durability, I have followed(and loved) your intercooler analysis over the years!
Proper data for the win!
I believe that even though we have a number of sub-systems relying on the thermal capacity of the coolant system we have enough cooling capacity as it is(I have no hard data, yet?). CSF claims their B-Tube core technology yields 15% efficiency gains. Aluminum end-tanks should also helps shed heat vs. plastic.
Since GT2's only have 1(passenger side) rad. fans, I believe a simple(yes vague) test will be to watch the gauge when sitting at a stopped idle after a number of consecutive pulls on a hot day; stock radiators creep up 10-20* pretty quick. Will try to measure the drop across the face of the centre(exposed) radiator with my IR temp. gun; might try to extrapolate some capacity data from that.
Soon as I am able to get some proper hard data via datalog or possibly adding thermal probes, I will share...of course if anyone else has data they've collected, please be free to share!
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Rob
TB993TT, just want to mention that 100% my main interest in the rads is for sake of durability, I have followed(and loved) your intercooler analysis over the years!
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
I believe that even though we have a number of sub-systems relying on the thermal capacity of the coolant system we have enough cooling capacity as it is(I have no hard data, yet?). CSF claims their B-Tube core technology yields 15% efficiency gains. Aluminum end-tanks should also helps shed heat vs. plastic.
Since GT2's only have 1(passenger side) rad. fans, I believe a simple(yes vague) test will be to watch the gauge when sitting at a stopped idle after a number of consecutive pulls on a hot day; stock radiators creep up 10-20* pretty quick. Will try to measure the drop across the face of the centre(exposed) radiator with my IR temp. gun; might try to extrapolate some capacity data from that.
Soon as I am able to get some proper hard data via datalog or possibly adding thermal probes, I will share...of course if anyone else has data they've collected, please be free to share!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
Rob
#39
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Guys, I wasn't considering that the factory ones may be "beat up" - is that really the case, surely as long as they are kept free of debris then they should cool as well (or 95%) as when new ?
The stock rads on my 7GT2 are in good shape and I intend to do a proper test. I have cup centre rad already and have bought the 2 outer CSF ones. I am thinking of getting engine hot then blast to 300kph and comparing temp increase curves as well as critically peak temp. Surely the only way to say they are an "upgrade" is if they lower the temp during this sort (or several track laps) of test compared to stock ?
BTW my oil has definite signs of too much heat so this is an upgrade I need, here's hoping
The stock rads on my 7GT2 are in good shape and I intend to do a proper test. I have cup centre rad already and have bought the 2 outer CSF ones. I am thinking of getting engine hot then blast to 300kph and comparing temp increase curves as well as critically peak temp. Surely the only way to say they are an "upgrade" is if they lower the temp during this sort (or several track laps) of test compared to stock ?
BTW my oil has definite signs of too much heat so this is an upgrade I need, here's hoping
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#40
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I agree if they are well taken care of, the factory rads should still have near new efficiency. Mine are decent but the previous owners/shops probably rarely cleaned them ![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
Would be awesome if you could grab some data on these!
I have often wondered about the seemingly small engine oil/water cooler on our cars, anyone upgrading/adding the engine oil cooler?
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Would be awesome if you could grab some data on these!
I have often wondered about the seemingly small engine oil/water cooler on our cars, anyone upgrading/adding the engine oil cooler?
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#41
Race Car
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The point is you can't know for sure unless you remove the end tanks and look inside with a magnifying glass. I have seen way too many radiators that looked fine on the outside but had loads of mineral deposits on the inside which robbed the radiators of their efficiency. If you can't know for sure, it is not a controlled experiment and any conclusions you may derive will be suspect. The only good/valid test would be to run with new stock radiators, then switch to the new aluminum ones and try to keep the running parameters as similar as possible.
Dan
Dan
#42
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^good point...also I suggest thoroughly washing out any new rads to avoid any contamination from shipping etc.
All installed, doing a heat-cycle or two before putting bumper on to ensure no leaks/issues...fit great
All installed, doing a heat-cycle or two before putting bumper on to ensure no leaks/issues...fit great
#43
Burning Brakes
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Thanks Dan, was going to say the exact same thing; coming from beat-up factory original 2003 rads to fresh/new won't show fair data right off the hop.
TB993TT, just want to mention that 100% my main interest in the rads is for sake of durability, I have followed(and loved) your intercooler analysis over the years!
Proper data for the win!
I believe that even though we have a number of sub-systems relying on the thermal capacity of the coolant system we have enough cooling capacity as it is(I have no hard data, yet?). CSF claims their B-Tube core technology yields 15% efficiency gains. Aluminum end-tanks should also helps shed heat vs. plastic.
Since GT2's only have 1(passenger side) rad. fans, I believe a simple(yes vague) test will be to watch the gauge when sitting at a stopped idle after a number of consecutive pulls on a hot day; stock radiators creep up 10-20* pretty quick. Will try to measure the drop across the face of the centre(exposed) radiator with my IR temp. gun; might try to extrapolate some capacity data from that.
Soon as I am able to get some proper hard data via datalog or possibly adding thermal probes, I will share...of course if anyone else has data they've collected, please be free to share!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
Rob
TB993TT, just want to mention that 100% my main interest in the rads is for sake of durability, I have followed(and loved) your intercooler analysis over the years!
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
I believe that even though we have a number of sub-systems relying on the thermal capacity of the coolant system we have enough cooling capacity as it is(I have no hard data, yet?). CSF claims their B-Tube core technology yields 15% efficiency gains. Aluminum end-tanks should also helps shed heat vs. plastic.
Since GT2's only have 1(passenger side) rad. fans, I believe a simple(yes vague) test will be to watch the gauge when sitting at a stopped idle after a number of consecutive pulls on a hot day; stock radiators creep up 10-20* pretty quick. Will try to measure the drop across the face of the centre(exposed) radiator with my IR temp. gun; might try to extrapolate some capacity data from that.
Soon as I am able to get some proper hard data via datalog or possibly adding thermal probes, I will share...of course if anyone else has data they've collected, please be free to share!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
Rob
#44
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at the moment relying on the gauge for relative temp. readings....drove it tonight and gauge seems to read 5-10degrees lower than it did before
...will drive again tomorrow to make sure its not a fluke...seeing about 175*F at cruising pace, 185*F at idle right after a bunch of hard pulls...seems to be tons of heat capacity-the ends are virtually at ambient on the 'cold side' of the cores..
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#45
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The point is you can't know for sure unless you remove the end tanks and look inside with a magnifying glass. I have seen way too many radiators that looked fine on the outside but had loads of mineral deposits on the inside which robbed the radiators of their efficiency. If you can't know for sure, it is not a controlled experiment and any conclusions you may derive will be suspect. The only good/valid test would be to run with new stock radiators, then switch to the new aluminum ones and try to keep the running parameters as similar as possible.
Dan
Dan
A note on the car's dash water temp gauge (as I think paulunm was alluding to) it is not accurate and doesn't measure increases in temperature accurately at all, OBD is the only way to do it.