SEAFORE

2003 Turbo. I recently had these two codes pop up with a steady check engine light. Car runs fine, both idle and under power. Normally, some searching will provide much information, but in this case I have found very little.

The best piece of information I have found is a two page cut from the manual section O-53.1, which indicates some possible fault causes including potential corrosion.

Wondering if anyone has any other suggestions or information as to what to try before taking to the dealer? Is the sensor accessible from under the car, information on precise location? Maybe it would be worth a try to pull the connector on/off and reset just to see if loose?

I believe I read someone that this car has 2 sensors, and the second will backup the first, so expecting this is OK to drive?

Any suggestions appreciated. Thx

Kevinmacd

Sounds to me this code may be the camshaft position sensor fault. The 996 turbo has had issues with the sensor bracket breaking. You need to get under the car and inspect the brackets.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/a...1&d=1295193817

neanicu

According to my reference the codes are related to a Crankshaft and Camshaft circuit malfunction. Bear in mind that these can cause a no start and/or performance issues. But you're saying your car isn't manifesting any of those situations.
These are OBD2 generic codes but a scan with a Porsche PIWIS might reveal more.
Clearing the codes for now could also be an option and see if they return.
If they do return but the car doesn't manifest a no start or performance issues you'd have to check the circuit like you've mentioned for corrosion or see if the sensor wires rubbed or melted from heat and grounding somewhere. I'd be amazed if that happened without causing any problems.

SEAFORE

I had the dealer run through the diagnostics and they reported '22007 bank one intake camshaft reluctor wheel is not being read', 'can be as simple as faulty cam position sensor, but more likely the reluctor wheel has slipped out of position, if so cam must be replaced'.

Mechanic further stated that car is fully functional and the only potential issue is a possible reduction in power and economy. Driving the car over the weekend, I cannot tell that I have any loss of power, seems like I would notice a difference even though power is roughly 480-490HP (I have the base EVO flash-1.1 bar), it still pulls as it always has-very strong.

Does anyone know about a reluctor wheel moving? This car has 22K miles, and a perfect maintenance history.

Any thoughts on drivablility of the car with this condition (I can't tell any problem exists driving it!). Dealer has signed me off for tech inspection-DE in 2 weeks.

My plan is to DIY replace cam position sensor when time allows to removal procedure, check wiring and all hoping it is actually the sensor.

Thanks for any help

Kevinmacd

Did you have the position sensor bracket checked. These are known to crack. As per my previous post.

SEAFORE

I have not disassembled the car to check for the bracket crack. Looking under the car it apprears that significant disassembly will have to occur before I can inspect or replace the cam position sensor.

32krazy!

remove the turbo heat shields and you can access the cam sensor. 6 bolts in all thats it. 2 for the sensor

SEAFORE

OK thanks, car is new to me and my initial inspection indicated there is not enough room for my hands to remove the heat shield. It always looks worse the first time, I will look again! Thx

SEAFORE

For the benefit of the thread and others who may encounter..

I replaced the driver side cam position sensor (hall sensor), checked codes again (had only 344 code), and have driven 40-50 miles at this point with no CEL.

The dealer had diagnosed through Porsche technique this problem to likely be a cam issue (the disc on the cam with the high spot was thought to have moved!). The mechanic did tell me to definately replace the sensor just to be sure. The dealer cost was about $700 to replace the sensor, somewhere in the $6-7K to replace the cam.

I accessed under the car by removing the flat heat shield, and loosing and moving the heat shield around the turbo for more hand clearance. It took me less than 2 hours, fairly tight area to work in but possible.

Quite pleased I tried this myself, and with >50 miles no CEL going to assume it was the sensor.

The old sensor had no obvious differences from the new, probably an internal failure on a 10 year old car.

Bskyoon

Thanks for the info. Can you tell me where you got the sensor from?

mxracer

Just did mine yesterday and bought them from rockauto.com. Original Bosch. Cheapest place I found online that had OEM.

Bskyoon

Great thank you! How long did it take you and is it a pretty straightforward process, remove turbo heat shield to access the hex screw, unplug and replace?

mxracer

Yes, pretty straight forward. Took a couple of hours but I did it the "long" way and wasn't in any rush.

I chose to remove the rear bumper cover, exhaust heat shield and intercoolers, just like doing plugs for ease of access. IMO it would be REALLY tight just reaching under and trying with just moving the heat shields. I also have a lift so I have good access to the underside of the car.

Then I removed the two screws holding the coil pack heat shields and slid it down. 5mm allen wrench for the single screw holding the sensor. The screws have loctite on them (blue) so they will be firm coming out most of the way. The passenger side is pretty close to the engine bay and you will either have to find a stubby allen wrench or grind one down to fit in that space.

It was easier to remove the screw and pull the sensor then unplug the sensor.

I also chose to replace the allen head cap screws with hex head cap screws so I can use an 8mm wrench next time if I need it.

Back in is easy, place the sensor then tighten the screw.

Hope that helps, if you have any detailed question just shoot me a PM.

Here's the link to the RA part http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearc...num=0232103022

Bskyoon

Thanks a lot! I should have the part early next week, hopefully it'll go as smooth as you said. I have jack stands so access shouldn't be a problem. I'll PM you if something comes up, thanks again.

Kevin

With regards to the cam sync sensor>> there are two different units supplied. 2001 to early 2003 and 2003 and later..