Kevinmacd

The entire unit comes prefilled, bled, and a new wiring harness. Very easy to install. I gave up on replacing a leaking ram, the bleed process is very touchy since the volume of oil is small.

ChemMan

Where did you buy it from?

Kevinmacd

Gaudin Porsche
List 1928.43
Gaudin web price 1386.06

http://www.gaudinporscheparts.com/pa...?siteid=215796

Mr. C4

Here is your solution http://cabriolethydraulics.com/products-rear-wing.php

ChemMan

Just sent them an email. Thanks!

Have you used them before?

jpflip

So far two people on Renntech used them for spoiler system overhaul and they are happy about the result!

996tnz

Great news on the $100 rewiring option thanks. Having recently spent a good part of a weekend pulling my system apart on the bench and cleaning it internally, I should point out that the motors do look to have some form of overheating protection or something though. At one point I thought I'd killed both the pump motor from my car and the spare one I had as neither would respond to 12V current applied. Left them for an hour and both were fine again.

If the motor runs, or tries to, with direct power applied but the rams/wing don't move (and you've briefly tried both polarities) the 3 most likely things that may be happening are:

1. Hydraulic fluid too low/empty. There are Rennlist guides on topping it up.

2. Broken or jammed 'yoke'. That electric motor drives a large screw, which in turn forces a captive block shaped plastic yoke to go backwards and forwards, in turn driving the two little pistons/plungers on the other side which apply pressure to the hydraulics for each side. Mine were fine but I re-lubricated the outside sliding faces of the yokes with grease as a precaution. Graunching noises likely mean a broken yoke. If just jammed a few sharp taps midway along the motor housing may release it. Don't dent the aluminum though as it forms the track for the yoke!

3. Hydraulics gummed up. The little hydraulic pistons inside the brass cylinders may be stuck (gummed up). I cleaned and refitted mine, then re-assembled and re-filled with Pentone power steering fluid with stop-leak using a straw to fill the reservoirs on the motor body rather than the rams. I would then attach the rams and force them up using 12V, before inverting them, waiting for the air to rise (tapping lightly) and then cracking open the connections a little to bleed air out, before lowering the system and topping up again. Repeated a few times to get the rams rising promptly and evenly.

My system is working fine again now but for a moment there I thought I'd cooked my motors as they weren't responding. So just don't be too quick to write them off if they stop on you. If they really are dead then SimonK's $100 rewinding by an auto electrician sounds a brilliant solution.

DaveCarrera4

Makes sense that there is a thermistor or similar device to cut out motor on overheat, like if the microswitch failed to engage. Must have happened with mine, as it overheated and there was a black crystallized material holding one brush open, something overheated and melted, causing the brush to lock up. Really a very poor design in my book. Porsche farmed this out I'm guessing. Since the '89 964, the wing lift devices were mechanical. Yes the rams look cool, but it's what's underneath the lid that bothers me.

2002 Turbo - Basalt Black Metallic / 2003 Carrera 4S - Speed Yellow / 1955 356 Continental 1500 - Rust Red