Need help figuring out rear spoiler
10-06-2013, 12:33 PM
#16
Race Director
Been a few months since I messed with the wing but I am back to it now. I went through the system. Checked the relays next to the ECU, filled fluid in the rams. I know at least one of the microswitches are bad.
My plan is to replace the microswitches at this point. It looks like either the switches can be replaced or the entire wiring harness for the rear spoiler.
So, my question is: Has anyone replaced just the microswitches? If so, is it a simple splice in of the switches?
I am not sure where all the connections are for the entire harness. Might be easier to do, if, all the connection points are easily accessible. After the summer of digging into the engine bay and laying under the car, I am not too anxious to get too deep in there again.
My plan is to replace the microswitches at this point. It looks like either the switches can be replaced or the entire wiring harness for the rear spoiler.
So, my question is: Has anyone replaced just the microswitches? If so, is it a simple splice in of the switches?
I am not sure where all the connections are for the entire harness. Might be easier to do, if, all the connection points are easily accessible. After the summer of digging into the engine bay and laying under the car, I am not too anxious to get too deep in there again.
But I have not replaced a spoiler switch. So, I would urge you to be sure you have to cut/splice before you do so. You might order/get the new switches in and see if the wiring leads come with connector attached or wiring that just ends with some bare copper showing.
Speaking for myself, I do not like at all modifying the electrical wiring harness of a car unless absolutely necessary.
10-06-2013, 05:32 PM
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
10-08-2013, 12:14 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
10-20-2013, 05:20 PM
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
Replaced the mini switches. I found that they had been replaced before. The wiring of the switches that were in there had been soldered. I knew one of the switches were bad since the small metal piece in the switch would not stay in place.
Unfortunately, it did not work. It looks like the fluid I filled a couple of months ago is leaking out. I applied 12V to the drive motor itself. It runs but will not move the wing. I assume that there is not enough fluid in the system to raise the wing. On the plus side, I have checked all the electricals. I just have to figure out how to seal the hydraulic leak and refill the system. Hopefully that will solve the issue. Most likely, it will be something to deal with in the spring.
Unfortunately, it did not work. It looks like the fluid I filled a couple of months ago is leaking out. I applied 12V to the drive motor itself. It runs but will not move the wing. I assume that there is not enough fluid in the system to raise the wing. On the plus side, I have checked all the electricals. I just have to figure out how to seal the hydraulic leak and refill the system. Hopefully that will solve the issue. Most likely, it will be something to deal with in the spring.
10-20-2013, 05:32 PM
#25
!["02996ttx50's Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23759d7b' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
kudos for your continuing efforts.
do you have a copy of one of the many step by step diy's in here and elsewhere? because if you do? it is critical that the fluid level be exact and even, if not as close as one can be. given you've been able to get this far in your diagnosis ( and imminent ) repair? you are a strong candidate for having it work as designed again. don't give up lol. re-bleed and fill if all else seems operable!.. and again.. GL!
my bud and i had to re-bleed measure/equalize for at least an hour with a 12v source with the stuff all over the decklid! what's that old saying? "if at first?...."
you got this!
do you have a copy of one of the many step by step diy's in here and elsewhere? because if you do? it is critical that the fluid level be exact and even, if not as close as one can be. given you've been able to get this far in your diagnosis ( and imminent ) repair? you are a strong candidate for having it work as designed again. don't give up lol. re-bleed and fill if all else seems operable!.. and again.. GL!
my bud and i had to re-bleed measure/equalize for at least an hour with a 12v source with the stuff all over the decklid! what's that old saying? "if at first?...."
you got this!
10-22-2013, 08:04 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Mar 2002
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In my case the oil pump failed. Switches rarely fail - that's just wishful thinking. The oil pump consists of two parts - hydraulic part and the motor part. In my case the motor part failed. Complete unit is 1500$. However, my local car electrician repaired the motor. He said it wasn't easy but managed to separate the motor from the pump and then rewired the internals. Cost? 100$. So, the good news is that if the motor part fails, competent car electrician should be able to fix it. Good luck.
Ps. Just connect 12V battery straight to the motor. If it doesn't work here is your answer.
Ps. Just connect 12V battery straight to the motor. If it doesn't work here is your answer.
10-22-2013, 03:26 PM
#29
Burning Brakes
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10-22-2013, 06:50 PM
#30
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In my case the oil pump failed. Switches rarely fail - that's just wishful thinking. The oil pump consists of two parts - hydraulic part and the motor part. In my case the motor part failed. Complete unit is 1500$. However, my local car electrician repaired the motor. He said it wasn't easy but managed to separate the motor from the pump and then rewired the internals. Cost? 100$. So, the good news is that if the motor part fails, competent car electrician should be able to fix it. Good luck.
Ps. Just connect 12V battery straight to the motor. If it doesn't work here is your answer.
Ps. Just connect 12V battery straight to the motor. If it doesn't work here is your answer.
In any case, the weather seems to be taking a turn towards the cold. It is getting close to that time of the year when I will be putting the turbo in storage. Unless I get an overwhelming urge to work in the garage in the cold, it will have to wait for a bit.
I will look into the pump itself. From your description, it sounds like the hydraulic portion has been compromised. Outside of replacing the unit, I am not sure what else can be done. There is a local hydraulic shop but my previous dealings with them did not instill me with confidence in them.