I’ve owned quite a few sports cars in my life, but am finding the 996T to be a bit fussy from time to time. That’s one of the adventures in buying a 10 year old used car I suppose. I recently flashed my system with Kevin’s UMW tune and really enjoy it; however, my stock clutch can’t handle the torque. As many of you read, it began slipping in 3rd and 4th gear at about 5500 RPMs and running to redline. Ended up calling all over the place and was #1 given a lot of bad information by local shops and #2 quoted some absolutely outrageous prices on labor. Sorry, but $3K to $4K in labor to install a clutch is highway robbery. That didn’t even include the parts!

Kevin at UMW helped me out a lot and told me flat out what I had to do. Afterall---he designed the tune and should know what clutch kit would work best. So, I am going with his clutch kit, a new dual-mass flywheel, fork it, and slave/accumulator. I need this stuff to last.

With that being said…in order to save the new clutch…how should I be driving the car? I will avoid all hard 1st gear pulls and riding the clutch---obviously (not that I did). I want to be able to play with the thrust of the new tune, but I don’t want to be smoking clutches every year. So could you experts in this area give me some do’s and don’ts so that I can keep things intact? I have no idea of the use of my previous clutch, and am in no way saying that the tune or me (specifically) caused it to go bad. But starting with a brand new clutch---I need to make sure I treat it right.

 

before you spend any money on any new clutch think farther down the road. what mods will you be happy with power wise? dont think hp think torque. so 600 ft/lbs 700? erp setup will run approx $4000 and will be the last clutch you ever buy no matter how hard you abuse it

sachs 2.5 will be good for 600 and will last for a few yrs but its a wear item. skip the slave acc. and do the gt2 conversion for 1000$ and be done with it forever dual mass is the right choice until you go with the high hp clutches then use their setup

 

I don't want to go with any more than what the UMW tune provides. 500 ft/lbs is all I need with this car. I did a few pulls (while the clutch was functioning) and the thrust was exceptional. I'd get into trouble with any more than that!

This has been a very frustrating process to say the least.

 

my GT2 has a fairly new Spec clutch installed by P.O. , believe it is un-sprung sintered metallic, absolutely trashy-shutters and bites/grabs, however is unbelievably strong with no problem holding the car's 'tuned' power ATM, will likely be looking at doing the Sachs Motorsports clutch at some point if the Spec doesn't 'bed-in'....in past cars that were at the clutch 'limit' I always drove the car with extra care when 'speed-shifting' to ensure full clutch grab before getting on the torque again, and of course never abuse the clutch during normal driving as well, quick in and out-never slipping it
Always helps to be a gear 'up' ie using 4th instead of 5th...

 

I think you got the basic down....as long as the clutch matches your hp requirements you will be fine with everyday driving and full throttle runs....it will last just as long as a stock clutch with stock hp.

Good luck

 

Getting rid of the accumulator will help an enormous amount. You will have much better feel for engagement. Kevin has taken care of you. I have been on his tune (and set-up...from hybrids to clutch) for &+ years...no problem.

 

If I couldn't do WOT 1st gear pulls I wouldn't own my Turbo.

Basic clutch care remains the same regardless of the power; it's all about taking care with how the clutch is engaged. Once the clutch is fully engaged, then have fun with the power you have in your Turbo and don't worry about clutch wear caused by dipping into the torque on a fully engaged clutch. Why else do you want the power if you aren't going to use it?

 

Too bad u can't enjoy the tune fully until you get that clutch done. I just got mine. Fun stuff.

 

It depends on several things. Driving fast dosent necerserly mean a use or harsh on the equipment. I flashed my car w 24k miles and I never had the cultch slip. I had the clutch replaced at 70k but not because it was slipping. It was because I went with a lwfw. My clutch had 70% life left.

Yet people here would say I drive " hard". In my book their is a difference between driving hard and fast but most people who don't have the finese associated fast with hard.

So what I'm saying. You know how harsh you are on the equipment so you should be best person to gauge.

I had stock clutch, a flash and straight pipes for 40k miles w zero slipping.
I however do heal and toe every gear to preserve the life of the clutch as much as possible.


So tips to make clutch last.

Heal toe every gear when possible except to first
No power shifting
I never (unless on a steep up hill) use the throttle to get rolling in first gear.

 

I've tracked my car with Kevin's tune and clutch kit and have had no problem. Finesse the clutch and transmission, don't manhandle it like it was a Corvette.

 

I don't know if you ordered yet, but Kevin's clutch kit with single mass FW is fantastic. It should be fine with your tune.

 

What's with your avatar?

Signature says the 996 Turbo is sold??

 

While you want to enjoy the feel of the thrust the tune provides this is when the torque load will be the highest.

By way of an explanation: An 'old' mechanic's clutch test is to with the transmission in a higher gear (4th or one that is closest to *but not over* a 1:1 ratio) apply full throttle starting at some low (but not too low) rpm and continue on up to redline. If the clutch is incapable of handling the torque it will slip. If it slips there's *no* need to continue the test nor any reason to repeat it.

If it doesn't slip there's no need to constantly retest the clutch either.

So what you want to experience is one of the situations in which the clutch will have to deal with the full torque output of the engine. If the clutch is inadequate you'll know it by its slippage.

My advice would be to enjoy the car like you want. Avoid clutch abuse of the obvious kind. But the clutch is on borrowed time and you should be aware of this so when the clutch shows signs of slipping you avoid then using the car in such a way to slip the clutch to at least possibly preserve the flywheel assuming you want to reuse it (possibly after a resurface).

But set aside funds or be prepared to have access to sufficient funds when you need to have a new clutch installed. Also, be sure to budget for a clutch that can handle the output of the engine now and into the future if you have more power/torque adding mod's in mind.

 

I wouldn't worry about it. I'm on a stock clutch with 62k miles and it handles Kevin's tune just fine. A new clutch properly driven should last you for many years.

 

That may be easier for him than you think. He posted on the 987-981 forum here that he bought a 2011 Boxster Spyder this past Saturday, and his signature now states that the '03 Turbo has been sold.