32krazy!

unless you have the 20 digit vin code for each key you cannot program the immobilizer to the keys original or not. if the system is dead then new keys and immobilizer have to be purchased

yes i checked them. this car worked without any starting issues until the battery was drained. now it will not start yet everything else key and battery related works

its a securtiy issue that car is locked me out i have ordered a new key as i only have 1 so ill get it programmed while its at the dealer. just waiting on the key before sending the car off

Carlo_Carrera

The dealership can look up the 20 digit codes.

As I wrote, I had this happen to people I know. Just get your car to a dealer and in ten minutes they can re-boot the software and reprogram you existing keys to work. They should only charge you around $150. If a dealer tells you differently they are lying to you.

Carlo_Carrera

You wrote in an earlier post that you had three workings keys before the battery died. Now you are saying you have one. Which is it? Are sure you own this car or have you stolen it?

32krazy!

i have 1 working key, 1 key that came with the car that was never used it opens the door but the fobs dont work and 1 key i just purchased with new vin codes. so i will only have 1 working key unless the dealer can program my other keys without the 20 digit codes as i dont have them.

i also dont appreciate the accusation and im really only looking for info from those that actually have something to offer not someone who HAD a friend have something done and no real experience in this matter

Carlo_Carrera

I was joking.

I have told you how to get the problem sorted and you have completely ignored what I have written. It wasn't just one friend. I know several people who had this happen to them. They, unlike you, didn't out smart themselves, they brought their cars to the dealership the dealer looked up the codes and re-booted the car's computer and re-programed their keys all for around $150. And don't get me wrong, I am a very big DIY guy, but there are somethings it is just easier to pay a shop to do and this is one of them.

It is that simple, you seem to want to do it the hard way. Enjoy yourself.

32krazy!

if it was that simple it would be done. from the dealer, to the race shop i trust implicitly to the forum mechanics to my tuner the immobilizer CANNOT be rebooted. it doesnt work that way. if all the security safegaurds are in place it either works or it doesnt. the key codes arent for rebooting an existing immobilizer they are for programming a new immobilizer to the existing keys. without the codes the new immobilizer cant see them.

my car is scheduled to be at the dealer on monday . my request here was for accurate data to know what to expect not stories of what other had done as you truely dont have any idea what went on. i havent ignored what you wrote merely discounted it as inaccurate

leftlane

Good luck - has to be frustrating as hell. Hopefully the dealer will surprise you with an easy fix - fingers crossed.

996turbo4365

any updates?

Macster

The symptoms escape me but there have been a few cases where the car was acting erratically in the electronics/security area where a battery disconnect followed by a depress of the brake pedal to completely remove all residual/capacitive power followed by a reconnect of the battery resurrected the car.

IIRC after the battery was disconnected the ignition key was turned to the on position (but not the engine start position) and turned to the off position and the key removed before the battery was reconnected.

Carlo_Carrera

I am not talking about rebooting the immobilizer, I am talking about rebooting the entire computer system and then the other issues can be addressed. As far as accurate data. I told you you should expect to pay around an hour of labor, $150.00, how much more accurate do you want?

If you don't like the answers you are getting here then don't post your problems.

32krazy!

this entire post is so redundant i cant even comment on it. please go back to whatever you were doing before you became a keyboard mechanic.

as for my issue it was a burnt relay in the ecu area. took them 3 hrs to find it. not sure why i got an immobilizer code but the car is running now.

Carlo_Carrera

So as I wrote it wasn't the immobilizer.

They usually charge you to look up the codes and they needed it to reset the system after they found the bad relay. They give you the code so if sometime in the future your car doesn't recognize the key again or you want get additional keys made you can give the code to the dealer or a Porsche authorized locksmith and he can use it to set up the system again. If you lose the code and this happens again they will charge you again to look up the code again. Save the code.

I will go back to my work on cold fusion, thanks.

32krazy!

it amazes me how much you like to hear yourself talk. nothing was reset. a blown relay was found and replaced. the car started. the code for the immobilizer was cleared. simple as that. they didnt charge me for looking up the code nor did they charge me 150$ per hr. the labour was higher because of the difficulty in getting into the back of the car due to a roll cage that limited the way they could get the bose system and rear shelf out replace the bad parts and reinstall everything.

face it you regurgitated what a few of your friends had done to their car and knew less than nothing about what was wrong with my car.

wross996tt

where was the relay?, which relay was it? and why did it fry?...

I am definitely not an expert on auto electronics, but I am not familiar with relays per se on the edu?? I know there are relays in the car(doh) and I have the schematics for relays....but none are on the edu. Perhaps some additional information will be informative to others that come upon your symptoms.

Carlo_Carrera

I really do not understand why you continue to give me grief when all the advice I have given you has been helpful. But I am starting to understand why you screen name has "krazy" in it.

I suggested last week that would need to take your car to the dealer to get this issue sorted. You ignored me. I then said no matter what was wrong with your car you would need the security codes to correct the issue. Again you ignored me. So then you searched around for other answers and wound up taking the car to the dealer anyway and the dealer fixed the problem and needed the security codes to do it.

I am not the one that left the key in the ignition and cause the issue. I am the one that recognized that this problem would be beyond most DIY capabilities, not because you aren't smart enough to figure it out but because you wouldn't have access to the proper diagnostic equipment, codes and electrical schematics.

As wross996tt asked it would be nice know which relay burnt out because the issue of a dead battery occurring with a key in the ignition is very common in my part of the world. It is pretty much an annual subject at PCA tech meetings in the early spring when guys come in asking why their cars will not run, have the CEL on, or are stuck in "limp home mode" after their batteries died with the key in the ignition over the winter. For some reason even when the car off if the key is left in it causes some systems to stay active and if the battery starts to die the low voltage starts to cause weird system errors. Adding you you resistor to the list of possibilities could be helpful.