Macster

Well, I tried to duplicate this with my Turbo last night and failed. That is until I purposely mistimed backing off the throttle when depressing the clutch and upshifting.

When I timed it right neither the tach or the engine gave any indication of revs increasing.

However, I never tried this at extremely high rpms. Didn't have a chance with the traffic.

dubhov

So after data-logging, it wasn't my foot on the throttle, and it wasn't drive by wire. Pedal input was 0% and the TB plate was still open. He tested the DVs, and they can still hold pressure. I'm replacing them anyway soon though since apparently the stock ones fail pretty easy after running higher boost.

He had the idea of a boost leak; I'll probably go in and get that tested once I replace the DVs and clean the TB. My money's on a dirty TB and it not closing fast enough; fingers crossed it's that simple.

Thanks for the ideas, everyone.

neanicu

My money was on throttle body from the beginning...^^^

dubhov

Yeah, I just haven't had time to; this weekend probably/hopefully.

"02996ttx50

my money on the throttle body being gunked up too. still. lol

Macster

The throttle plate will remain open even with no pressure on the pedal. With no idle control valve the throttle is what now controls idle speed so it can't close completely. If the signal from the gas pedal potentiometers does not agree with the throttle body butterfly valve potentiometer a CEL should be on.

While I'm not completely eliminating the throttle body (or e-Gas pedal system) from the list of suspects they are not very high on my list.

Just so you know: The throttle body and its butterfly valve drive are not serviceable items. However, at least one person has taken this apart and worked on it, cleaned it (cleaned and greased the gear drive) is what I recall, and reported the misbehavior that prompted him to do this got better.

I'm not recommending you do this.

Verifying there is no boost leak is a good idea.

I sort of like this for an explanation. The fueling is based upon the amount of air that has been measured by the MAF. Yet some of this air bleeds out of the intake. The fueling is then a bit rich and this could account for the run on.

But let us read what your mechanic finds.

dubhov

So, since the last post I've:

1. Flashed back to stock
2. Cleaned the throttle body
3. Cleaned the MAF

None of those...hoping a thread bump might turn up a few more ideas. I haven't done the boost leak test yet, but plan on it soon.

Billy_Bones

Clutch gone no doubt, I had the same incident last week, I knew it was the clutch I could even smell the burn after the slipping..

At this moment I'm actually searching the forum on what to do, not sure if I should just get a new OEM clutch, go for a double plate or any other option since I'm going to pay a lot replacing the one I have anyways

dubhov

Yeah, some people have said the clutch is on its way out, but I've only ever had an issue with slipping when I was flashed to 500 ft/lb at the wheels...big surprise that the OEM clutch couldn't handle it :/

Anyway, check out a Sachs 2.5 clutch...the posters over at 6speed swear by em.

Billy_Bones

Just checked it, seems like a good choice, most probably I'm gonna go for it, Thanks a lot

"02996ttx50

sachs 2.5. i am w/ hybrids and supporting stuff. never an issue. good choice.

Turboslut

Sorry to bring up old thread....but was this ever solved?