CAE SHIFTERS IN STOCK STATESIDE!!!!!
11-30-2012, 12:05 PM
#20
Some people like to see the actual shift motion before they spend a lot on a short shifter. Words like the shifter is nice don't do it for everyone.
Was providing that data for others as the unit is not cheap. If you use the car for track or like the track-esque style of things, this is an amazing unit. I am adding a custom boot and 917 ****, so it will be super both in function (now) and in style points (what is throwing some off here too...). My kids and wife love it as is too.
Jeff
Was providing that data for others as the unit is not cheap. If you use the car for track or like the track-esque style of things, this is an amazing unit. I am adding a custom boot and 917 ****, so it will be super both in function (now) and in style points (what is throwing some off here too...). My kids and wife love it as is too.
Jeff
11-30-2012, 12:10 PM
#22
Dock,
Actual range of motion. To a the other person (a PCA instructor), the video was of immense use and he has thanked me for posting.
Proximity to the wheel....every cup car Porsche sells has the shifter up in this approximate location. The sequential unit you "might" be able to get out of Oakley Designs was 6 or 10k a few years ago. This is the only other thing that is short and tall...the numeric and CMS units can be raised, but you cannot use your console (windows switches, etc.). So I went this way.
Here is a cup car interior to this comparison...note the shift **** position....
Jeff
Actual range of motion. To a the other person (a PCA instructor), the video was of immense use and he has thanked me for posting.
Proximity to the wheel....every cup car Porsche sells has the shifter up in this approximate location. The sequential unit you "might" be able to get out of Oakley Designs was 6 or 10k a few years ago. This is the only other thing that is short and tall...the numeric and CMS units can be raised, but you cannot use your console (windows switches, etc.). So I went this way.
Here is a cup car interior to this comparison...note the shift **** position....
Jeff
11-30-2012, 12:21 PM
#23
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I don't care that you posted the video; not a problem there. I was just interested in what the bang for the buck was. My B&M looks to be close to your unit in terms of throw distance. The only substantial difference is how tall the shifter is. I was just wondering is there were any other advantages.
11-30-2012, 12:29 PM
#24
Ah, no worries. I had the B and M too (my car came from the factory with the 996ssk...per report made for Porsche by B and M...if not true, my data reflect a Porsche OEM ssk for the 996 turbo installed at the factory).
My verbal comparing the two....the B and M was a lot more sloppy. I could check if it that car was in neutral by jostling the lever before starting. Cannot do that now for what it's worth. Getting into 1, 2, or 3 was notchy sometimes....4-6 were smooth. Even after a full rebuild at Dougherty's Autosport in Philly for a second gear popout missed at the PPI years ago....and a cup car level mechanic perfectly adjusting the oem ssk sourced from B and M, this was the case.
This CAE unit makes every single gear from every single other gear a click/precise/done sort of thing. There is absolutely no notchiness at all. I used the stock cables. They have cables and PMNA cup car cables can be used as well for perhaps even a stiffer shift. Not sure it could be stiffer to be honest. There is a plastic piece that some have had fail in the stock cables that the aftermarket cables don't use (they use metal afaik).
Trying to be helpful. Position to the shifter from the wheel on track is a big deal in my opinion and for a lot of guys. For the street, it is fun, but not a big deal. But I own the car for fun.... Some people feel owning a cup car is great bang for the buck....I cannot afford one in my world any time soon. Even if you did 30 track days a year, the engine and tranny work would be a lot to swallow..
I paid for all of this junk and don't like to waste money. This is a fun bit of kit for the person who likes having crisp shifting and has the funds. It is about 300 more than the numeric option, but it raised the shifter while letting me keep my console. For me, the math made this the better unit to have. I suspect the numeric (seemingly the supplier to GMG) and other units are probably awesome too. While B and M are good if adjusted just right, that can be tricky from what several mechanics have told me...and even if perfect, this is at least equal and in a better location for track work. If I wanted best bang for buck, I hear the 997 GT3 unit and/or 997 ssk are nice units too. Then up in price is the numeric unit if I wanted stock height. This one is the ultimate one to have. If you want to go nuts these guys have two other no-console unit models. Finally the big daddy in cost is the sequential from Oakley Designs (still needs clutch use). Somewhere in all of this people get better cables too...cup cables, vendor cables. I think this might be an area of opportunity for vendors if the OEM ones have an issue that is an easy fix as the cup car units are 500 bucks. I have the CAE units for another shop day in hand. They were 250 and frankly I don't know if they will improve things a lot. They are all metal and were half the price of cup car units - I've held the cup car units and these and I cannot really expect that there is much difference in how they'll feel and affact NVH.
My opinion based on my reading of things and experience with some of the products. The car is a lot of fun and I am happy I put the shifter in it. It is amazing on the twisties to have it in hand....frankly it has made my footwork easier to time somehow.
As an aside, I put a Pioneer AVIC d3 in it in 2006 or so when the OEM unit died....had bluetooth, maps, ipod, etc. back then. OEM solution was at least 5x the cost...so I too am a bang for buck guy.
Jeff
My verbal comparing the two....the B and M was a lot more sloppy. I could check if it that car was in neutral by jostling the lever before starting. Cannot do that now for what it's worth. Getting into 1, 2, or 3 was notchy sometimes....4-6 were smooth. Even after a full rebuild at Dougherty's Autosport in Philly for a second gear popout missed at the PPI years ago....and a cup car level mechanic perfectly adjusting the oem ssk sourced from B and M, this was the case.
This CAE unit makes every single gear from every single other gear a click/precise/done sort of thing. There is absolutely no notchiness at all. I used the stock cables. They have cables and PMNA cup car cables can be used as well for perhaps even a stiffer shift. Not sure it could be stiffer to be honest. There is a plastic piece that some have had fail in the stock cables that the aftermarket cables don't use (they use metal afaik).
Trying to be helpful. Position to the shifter from the wheel on track is a big deal in my opinion and for a lot of guys. For the street, it is fun, but not a big deal. But I own the car for fun.... Some people feel owning a cup car is great bang for the buck....I cannot afford one in my world any time soon. Even if you did 30 track days a year, the engine and tranny work would be a lot to swallow..
I paid for all of this junk and don't like to waste money. This is a fun bit of kit for the person who likes having crisp shifting and has the funds. It is about 300 more than the numeric option, but it raised the shifter while letting me keep my console. For me, the math made this the better unit to have. I suspect the numeric (seemingly the supplier to GMG) and other units are probably awesome too. While B and M are good if adjusted just right, that can be tricky from what several mechanics have told me...and even if perfect, this is at least equal and in a better location for track work. If I wanted best bang for buck, I hear the 997 GT3 unit and/or 997 ssk are nice units too. Then up in price is the numeric unit if I wanted stock height. This one is the ultimate one to have. If you want to go nuts these guys have two other no-console unit models. Finally the big daddy in cost is the sequential from Oakley Designs (still needs clutch use). Somewhere in all of this people get better cables too...cup cables, vendor cables. I think this might be an area of opportunity for vendors if the OEM ones have an issue that is an easy fix as the cup car units are 500 bucks. I have the CAE units for another shop day in hand. They were 250 and frankly I don't know if they will improve things a lot. They are all metal and were half the price of cup car units - I've held the cup car units and these and I cannot really expect that there is much difference in how they'll feel and affact NVH.
My opinion based on my reading of things and experience with some of the products. The car is a lot of fun and I am happy I put the shifter in it. It is amazing on the twisties to have it in hand....frankly it has made my footwork easier to time somehow.
As an aside, I put a Pioneer AVIC d3 in it in 2006 or so when the OEM unit died....had bluetooth, maps, ipod, etc. back then. OEM solution was at least 5x the cost...so I too am a bang for buck guy.
Jeff
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 11-30-2012 at 02:48 PM.
11-30-2012, 01:59 PM
#25
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
I don't care that you posted the video; not a problem there. I was just interested in what the bang for the buck was. My B&M looks to be close to your unit in terms of throw distance. The only substantial difference is how tall the shifter is. I was just wondering is there were any other advantages.
11-30-2012, 03:15 PM
#26
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Just for comparison, here's my B&M with EVOMS billet shift linkage. This is on a stone cold transmission/engine with the motor off. You can see that there is no issue at all with selecting any gear, that the throws are short, and the gear stops are rock solid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMWB...e_gdata_player
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMWB...e_gdata_player
11-30-2012, 04:06 PM
#27
Dock, if you are ever in Indiana - drop in and you can try mine out. It is different. Quite. I like is a lot better than my old OEM 996 SSK (B&M sourced) that was perfectly set up by Dougherty's AutoSport (DAS, as in DAS bars). Everyone has an opinion. If you track your car a bit and want to spend the money to have a cup car position, look into this. I am quite happy with my choice. And my shifter shifted just like your video before I changed it out.
A sane person might not like the feel too. Note my whole cockpit is very much "performance driver" in set up....it is a package.
My car is not set up bone stock...
This brings up a famous saying at my workplace: "the enemy of the good is the better."
I am not trying to antagonize you and your data are important for people to see/hear. The stock system is not bad. (meaning OEM SSK included...) I just think there are more options out there to look at than we had even 2 years ago. If all you do is drive to and from work and you have kids in the car that might put their fingers in the thing, this could be a lot worse for you....
Just happy with my new gadget. It is sort of like having a cup car with torque you can go out to dinner in while you are staying at VIR doing a DE.......
Jeff
A sane person might not like the feel too. Note my whole cockpit is very much "performance driver" in set up....it is a package.
My car is not set up bone stock...
This brings up a famous saying at my workplace: "the enemy of the good is the better."
I am not trying to antagonize you and your data are important for people to see/hear. The stock system is not bad. (meaning OEM SSK included...) I just think there are more options out there to look at than we had even 2 years ago. If all you do is drive to and from work and you have kids in the car that might put their fingers in the thing, this could be a lot worse for you....
Just happy with my new gadget. It is sort of like having a cup car with torque you can go out to dinner in while you are staying at VIR doing a DE.......
Jeff
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 11-30-2012 at 08:35 PM.
11-30-2012, 04:30 PM
#28
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Like you said earlier (and I agreed with), your shifter is not for everyone.
I don't track my Turbo. If I ever did (and I can't think of a reason why I would) it wouldn't be for the purposes of winning money or trophies, beating other cars, or setting personal best times, so the height of the shifter would not be important to me in terms of its possible contribution (if any) in reducing lap times. How short the throws are would interest me, and the accuracy and feel would interest me. But I have a B&M shifter that is pretty close to that now.
I'm glad you like your new shifter. To me, from a visual point of view, it's mechanically intriguing in a "Transformers" sort of way. I posted the video only to show that the B&M shifter, when properly adjusted, is a great shifter too.
My Turbo is not bone stock either.
I don't track my Turbo. If I ever did (and I can't think of a reason why I would) it wouldn't be for the purposes of winning money or trophies, beating other cars, or setting personal best times, so the height of the shifter would not be important to me in terms of its possible contribution (if any) in reducing lap times. How short the throws are would interest me, and the accuracy and feel would interest me. But I have a B&M shifter that is pretty close to that now.
I'm glad you like your new shifter. To me, from a visual point of view, it's mechanically intriguing in a "Transformers" sort of way. I posted the video only to show that the B&M shifter, when properly adjusted, is a great shifter too.
My Turbo is not bone stock either.
