errico

Tomorrow porsche will be inspecting my

2003 tt x50 package car.
pss10
techart wheels
gt3 upgraded brakes
flashed car


to be honest i am not concerned with brakes suspension and tires as all has been changed. interior is very nice. it looks good but is it good ?

now they will charge me by hour so what do i tell them to check besides their basic visuals.

1. over revs : can you explain type 1 or 2 please and when do i stay away.

2. if the car is flashed what does it effect on the type 1 2 over revs ?


3. gear pop out ..we will be going down and up some hills on the test drive !

what else can i ask them to do to see abuse ? my porsche dealer is flexible, he will do anything i want him to do and know.

Let me know what they should check

adam_

You should find an PRINT the Porsche CPO checklist. Have them complete this DOCUMENT. You want a written record of the work/inspection.

Add to it a bodywork inspection (any repairs, paint thickness, etc)

For 1 hours you are getting what I call a 'drive-by inspection': tech drives it by the service writer, he says "looks good".

Maybe not quite, but it will not be as thorough as I'd request.

Dump the DME, look at all error codes- number of times they show up, operating hours for each, total hours, overrevs- last time for each.

Also ask them what maintenance is now required.

GL

A

turbo4 me

Type 1 revs is the number of ignitions to the rev limiter; type 2 revs is number of ignitions over the rev limiter.

It is a hot topic for debate, but in my opinion, a high number of type 1s just means the car has been driven in a "spirited" manner. Type 2 revs are bad; I would walk away from a car with any more than a minor amount type 2s. When I bought my 2001, with 20k miles on it, it had 9000 type 1's and 24 type
2's.

Some say that a high number of Type 1s means the car has been tracked-

Type 2s potentially damage the engine. Porsche would void warrenties based on type 2 revs.

errico

you still bought the car with 24 type 2 revs ?

Kevin

Guys Type one over revs can be done rather easily. Banging the rev limiter will hang the Type 1.. I have seen the maximum 60K Type 1 on many cars.. Type 2's are more serious. With the cars being 10 years old and the mileage on them, I have seen 300's to 700's getting passed on recent CPO's for 2004 and 2005's..

errico

i need to understand..

give me an example of type 1 and type 2 .

i have a 996 for 7 years now , sometimes when i push the car i forget to shift and i get a block at the read line, a cut off, what type is that ? this in not a turbo.

so can you give me a real situation of type 2 so i can understand why its bad for the car please.

ps..i never shift in the red zone..is type 1 shifting in the red zone before hitting the block/cut off ?

fly2low

Type 1 happens when you hit the rev limiter, engage the clutch, and the dual mass flywheel keeps going up, these are no big deal
type 2 happens when you downshift from 5th to first, these are a big expensive deal

turbo4 me

Yes , I bought my car with 24 Type 2's (that equates to 4 revolutions). The PPI was perfect other than it needed a set of tires.

It's been a great car so far-

wross996tt

Not always...read this post and links

Macster

Better is to get a list of what this place checks and post it here for comment *before* having the PPI done.

The person doing the PPI should know what to check for, or you've selected the wrong place to have the PPI work done.

As for what to check? Everything.

A local Porsche dealer I deal with once in a while does PPIs and used the CPO checklist as its PPI checklist. This is also used when a car is considered for trade in or is brought in as a lease return or a car comes in from a Porsche auction. IIRC this is a 2+ hour job and runs IIRC $350.

I would not have the PPI done until *after* I had been able to have a 15 mile test ride, then 15 mile test drive in the car and course then come away with the warm fuzzies about the car.

There is much disagreement about overrevs. Assuming the aftermarket flash hasn't modified the rpm limit at which overrevs are recorded or even blocked any from being recorded at all, the word I get from the techs is type 2 overrevs only matter if the car is in for engine trouble and the owner is seeking the engine be fixed under warranty. Type 2 overrevs are used (can be used) to deny a warranty claim on the engine.

A flashed car is going to have been driven harder than an unflashed car. You have to accept that.

As long as the engine is running ok -- and you really need that 15 mile test ride/15 mile test drive to give the engine (and its population of sensors/controllers and other systems (converters) to manifest any problems, assuming the aftermarket flash isn't masking say converter error codes -- the overrevs don't count for much, unless you want them too.

Sure, if the thing has had some type 2's added to it in the last few minutes, or hours, of run time...again this is why you want to subject the car to a thorough test ride/drive -- I'd think twice about the car.

If the car has a high number of type 1s the car was probably driven quite spiritedly (to put it mildly). If the thing has a goodly number of type 2s, maybe the car was abused. It is up to you, you have to decide what your tolerances for overrev counts is.

After a thorough test ride/drive then the car is PPI'd. Doing this after the car is test ridden/driven gives the PPI a better chance of spotting fluid leak signs among other things.

Sincerely,

Macster.

fly2low

got it wross
actually makes sense given the limitation of only two types of overrevs