nick49

Funny you mention that!

I felt the same way and addressed the issue on my '99 996. It worked wonderfully. This old thread was revived a few day ago.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...matically.html

Frankly, I forgot about it and thought with the different clutch release design it wouldn't apply, but apparently it does. It will be my next improvement!

DaveK

Thanks - excellent info. I've just had a quick read of the first few pages of that thread and I know what I'll be doing Sat morning!

Macster

The clutch hydraulic circuit is boosted and unfortunately it is overboosted and doesn't have the feel that for instance my 02 Boxster's clutch has, even after 242K miles. (Yes, it is the original clutch.)

However, I have adapted rather well to the Turbo's clutch feel and can feel its bite though it takes a bit more attention than when I'm driving the Boxster.

Even so, I can move the Turbo off smartly and smoothly with very little clutch slippage and no herky-jerky car action.

I am reluctant to mention this because I don't want to plant any ideas in other Turbo owners' minds but it does feel to me the Turbo's clutch action is a bit (a bit mind you) improved after the accumulator and clutch slave cylinder were replaced.

But given the difference between the clutch's feel before and after it would *not* be enough of an improvement to cause me to elect to go to the expense of having these replaced unless they clearly needed replacing.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Mikelly

All I can tell you is that mine ate several before moving on to the GT2 setup. I was advised by several techs that I trust that two things kill the clutch hydraulics on the 996TT... The aftermarket clutch kits that are "stronger" put added pressure on the clutch hydraulics and accelerate the failure of the components... And, when the Accumulator fails and is not addressed, the Slave is not far behind. When the slave starts to fail, it will cause fluid to backfeed through the clutch master cylinder under the hood... That fluid will cause more issues...But hey, whatever works!

Mike

nick49

The stiff pedal doesn't bother me as much the juddery action that doesn't feel mechanically right. My plan is to put a 997 accumulator in and watch the slave. If it starts to go, the GT2 hydraulics will be installed. I've already sourced suppliers for what I need and looked at a GT3 motor and trans out of a car to have an idea on the install.

Either direction, I'll remove the sissy booster spring.

Land Jet

Does the transmission have to come out of the car to do the GT2 conversion?

nick49

No, I just probed in the slave hole of the bell housing with my finger to feel the fork I need to hit with the pushrod. Easier to see and feel on one that's already out of the car.

Guybrush Wilkinson

I will have my TTs accumulator and clutch changed at dealer in two weeks. Should I have the slave cylinder changed too just in case? Will the slave be well exposed during the accumulator and clutch work or is the slave change going to mean much more work? There has been writings on this board that once the accumulator fails the slave will be soon behind. True?

EDIT: The dealer and I agreed on a fixed price to replace the accumulator and clutch because I just bought the car and it is out of warranty. I am quite happy with the deal I got. I would like to know though, how many hours of work will they put in to change the accumulator and clutch?

EDIT EDIT: Macster wrote on topic "indie replaced my accumulator" like follows:

"But the fluid overflowing from the clutch slave cylinder reservior under the driver's side plastic cover that resides a head of the windshield and under the front trunk lid is a sign the clutch slave cylinder is going bad or has gone bad."

I am not seeing any trace of fluid overflowing from the reservoir. Does the fluid leave obvious marks if overflowing has occurred?

Dock

You have a bad clutch?

Guybrush Wilkinson

Yes Dock, it is slipping. Also classic symptoms of ammumulator problem.

JG 996T

My accumulator is toast, dealer will fix under CPO warranty.

Anybody have any luck getting dealership to replace slave at same time as warranty repair?

Macster

The clutch slave cylinder on my 03 was done at the same time as the accumulator and done under CPO warranty as was the accumulator. However, the clutch slave cylinder was showing signs of fluid leaking and this sealed the decision to replace the clutch slave cylinder.

There are two valves in the clutch slave cylinder but only one's performance can be tested directly. The other's only indirectly.

In either case, I'm not sure the tests are run/done unless there is some signs the cylinder is suspect.

It is not clear in my reference but what might be done is after the accumulator is replaced and the system verified it is working (up to a point) the boost circuit is charged (20 seconds of idling after a cold start with no clutch or steering wheel activity) then the engine shut off) and the car is left sitting 24 hours. If no boost remains after 24 hours one of the two valves is definitely 'damaged', as per my reference.

Before you take the car in for the accumulator very thoroughly inspect the clutch fluid reservior area under the panel in the front luggage compartment. You'll have to remove the panel. Check the underneath side of the panel and all around and under the reservior for any signs of fluid.

If you find any signs of fluid be sure to mention it.

Another thing you can do is ask what checks will be done to ensure, what checks *can* be done, to ensure the clutch slave cylinder is ok.

Lastly, you can ask if you elect to have to clutch slave cylinder replaced -- just as a preventative measure -- what break on labor (if any...) would you get?

Sincerely,

Macster.