996 Turbo Technical Questions
03-18-2011, 11:05 PM
#16
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The turbo gear box is very good. However, the engines are usually modded to point that when used as a track machine, the lifespan quickly goes away when you do NOT provide the needed cooling that the GT2 and GT3 cars have.
If you track go to the track more than 10 times a year, a cooler is a strong recommendation. It becomes a must if you install a limited slip. If you can add a few spray nozzles you will reduce the damage to your ring and pinion and gearsets.
If you track go to the track more than 10 times a year, a cooler is a strong recommendation. It becomes a must if you install a limited slip. If you can add a few spray nozzles you will reduce the damage to your ring and pinion and gearsets.
03-19-2011, 09:02 AM
#18
DEs count... If you're on track more than 20 minutes per session for 3-4 sessions per day, you should be concerned about the lifespan of the fluid. My general rule of thumb was to change the trans fluid after every 6th day on track. I'd change the oil after ever 3rd day on track.
I'm in the middle of doing a full GT2 conversion (including removing the front diff) and will be installing the differential pump and heat exchanger I bought from Al Norton. Once we rebuilt the trans and installed the Guards LSD, I assumed the gearbox would experience increased heat. So we're installing the tilton pump, plumbing and coolant plumbing, along with the coolant plumbing for the GT2 routing.
The thing here is to be aware that your car is reaching maximum heat saturation on track. You're running it higher in the RPM range for longer durations. If you're coming off track and not letting the car cool off properly before shutting it down, you're potentiall causing yourself more problems... What Kevin is speaking about is essentially true. But for the novice DE student, it's something to "eventually" plan for... This is another reason why I suggest NOT to add power to these cars and just focus on making them more durable for the track... And focus on the loose nut behind the wheel!!
Mike
I'm in the middle of doing a full GT2 conversion (including removing the front diff) and will be installing the differential pump and heat exchanger I bought from Al Norton. Once we rebuilt the trans and installed the Guards LSD, I assumed the gearbox would experience increased heat. So we're installing the tilton pump, plumbing and coolant plumbing, along with the coolant plumbing for the GT2 routing.
The thing here is to be aware that your car is reaching maximum heat saturation on track. You're running it higher in the RPM range for longer durations. If you're coming off track and not letting the car cool off properly before shutting it down, you're potentiall causing yourself more problems... What Kevin is speaking about is essentially true. But for the novice DE student, it's something to "eventually" plan for... This is another reason why I suggest NOT to add power to these cars and just focus on making them more durable for the track... And focus on the loose nut behind the wheel!!
Mike
03-19-2011, 09:14 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What is 'allowing it to properly cool down' in your opinion? 1-2 slow laps short shifting at the end of a session probably sounds like the best, but I'm curious what you do.
03-19-2011, 10:23 AM
#20
I drive around in the parking lot for about 3-10 minutes at 2500 rpm mostly for the brakes...then when I put the car to rest, I DO NOT apply the parking brake....letting it idle for 2 minutes on the nose....then shut it off, putting it in usually reverse or 5th/6th...
When my tranny was rebuilt because of 2nd gear pop-out, the mechanic (former crew chief on a grand am team....), told me there was little wear in my unit except for 2nd gear. THe PO had been, in all likelihood, a stop light guy.
I think, frankly, that speed shifting on these cars is just a bad idea. They have so much torque before Kevin gets to them...then add superior software and you need to be careful.
If you want to BANG on the gears hard, you'll kill these cars. So, much to the chagrin of my future instructors, I'll probably always be slow in my shifting.
Then again, having the tranny be the weak link rather than say the engine...not so bad....
Jeff
When my tranny was rebuilt because of 2nd gear pop-out, the mechanic (former crew chief on a grand am team....), told me there was little wear in my unit except for 2nd gear. THe PO had been, in all likelihood, a stop light guy.
I think, frankly, that speed shifting on these cars is just a bad idea. They have so much torque before Kevin gets to them...then add superior software and you need to be careful.
If you want to BANG on the gears hard, you'll kill these cars. So, much to the chagrin of my future instructors, I'll probably always be slow in my shifting.
Then again, having the tranny be the weak link rather than say the engine...not so bad....
Jeff
03-20-2011, 07:24 AM
#21
I limit it to 20 minutes and come in early unless I'm in a particularly good session of lapping with friends. I then bring the car into the pits and drive out through the paddock in 2nd or 3rd and just watch the temp gauge. I then leave let the car idle for atleast 90 seconds while I get out of the car and take my helmet/hans off.
Mike
Mike
