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New 996 Owner - check engine light question

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Old 11-23-2010, 01:35 AM
  #16  
Roger Johnsen
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I purchased from a private party in Scottsdale AZ so had the Porsche dealership there (Scottsdale Porsche) check it out and perform the service. Drove it home from there and the check engine light P0300's started the next day. Pretty bummed...
Old 11-23-2010, 02:58 AM
  #17  
adam_
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Originally Posted by Roger Johnsen
The car is just over 33k miles now. The 30k mile service was performed just under 29K miles by the dealership prior to my purchase. The invoice lists a quantity of 6 spark plugs among other items from that service. (Part # 999-170-195-90) I should also add the dealership did a full inspection on the car during the 30K service and only noted the front brakes should be checked on the next visit.
Originally Posted by Roger Johnsen
Drove it home from there and the check engine light P0300's started the next day. Pretty bummed...
The spark plug change has a warranty on that service.

They may have cracked a coil, or they may have messed up with something.

See if a dealer will work with you, I suspect an issue with one of the plugs or (more likely) one of the coils. The dealer will say "well if it is a bad plug PCNA will cover it, but if it is a coil you'll eat the cost. (Since you just had them do the plugs not coils.) See what they say.
Old 11-23-2010, 03:28 PM
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Macster
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Originally Posted by Roger Johnsen
I was hoping the problem was the wife driving and would simply "go away" but looks like it's not that easy. I went to take the car for a drive and had the CEL go on again with P0300 and P0306. This happened when the car had just been started and was running at idle in my garage. I've noticed it seems to be running a little "rough" over the past couple of days as well. (Not exactly mechanic speak but the passenger seat back was shaking back and forth when I was at idle.) I've gone through at least three tanks of gas since the first code was triggered / CEL came on so would rule out bad gas theory.

The car is just over 33k miles now. The 30k mile service was performed just under 29K miles by the dealership prior to my purchase. The invoice lists a quantity of 6 spark plugs among other items from that service. (Part # 999-170-195-90) I should also add the dealership did a full inspection on the car during the 30K service and only noted the front brakes should be checked on the next visit.
Last thing touched first thing suspect. As others I'm sure have advised take the car back and have the misfire looked into.

But I suspect as others too have suspected it will prove to be a coil.

And not the plugs.

And last but not least, not the wife.

You need to think about making amends...

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 11-23-2010, 06:26 PM
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ms4cd
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Did you try calling the dealer who sold you the car? Give that a try, maybe they can pay to find out whats causing this. Just a thought.
Old 11-23-2010, 06:46 PM
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Mikelly
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Actually, depending on where you live, this isn't an urban myth. Ethanol is causing many of us problems with everything that's gas powered, including our porsches... I wouldn't recommend storing your car for long periods without stabilizers in the fuel system...

Edit: Just read the above post by the OP, and yea, it's probably your coils...

Also, I didn't read the while thread, but I'm a real big fan of the Durametric code scanner... Used one for over 3 years now!

Mike

Originally Posted by adam_
"Bad Gasoline"???

That is almost an urban myth. It is exceedingly rare.

See what comes back. Were the spare plugs changed?

A
Old 11-24-2010, 11:44 PM
  #21  
Roger Johnsen
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I ended-up removing the coil and plug from the number 6 cylinder in the event the connection was loose. The coil looked okay (no cracks). I removed the coil pack and pulled the spark plug. I noticed the gap was smaller than specification so re-gapped it to .8mm. I also noticed oil around the plug threads; which seemed odd to me. Re-installed the re-gapped plug and coil pack and cleared the P0300 and P0306 errors. Started it up and idled with no codes. Took it out for a drive and no diagnostic codes. Will continue to monitor it but was wondering if anyone had any feedback on the looks of the plug (not sure what a plug with a couple of thousand miles on it should look like) and the fact the gap was closer to .4mm. Also, I read BERU plugs weren't being used anymore and only BOSCH. Not sure if this is true or not but the plugs in the car are definitely BERU...
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Old 11-25-2010, 05:26 PM
  #22  
Mikelly
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That is not the plut they should have put in the motor... The BERU's were updated with Bosch Part number: 999-170-195-90-M14

Mike
Old 11-28-2010, 02:15 PM
  #23  
Roger Johnsen
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Since removing the no. 6 plug and re-gapping, I haven't had a recurrence of the CEL problem / P0300 / P0306. I'm not sure what to make of the last post regarding the fact: "BERU's were updated with Bosh Part number: 999-170-195-90-M14." Should I call the dealership that performed the service and inquire with them? Am open to any suggestions as I'm not sure how to approach this...
Old 11-28-2010, 02:39 PM
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Kevin
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Roger, so you just pulled #6? You might need to pull all the plugs to check the gaps?

With the labor that you spend.. Upgrading to new 997TT coil packs is recommended.

BTW, BERU plug just don't last like the German Bosch FR6 LDC
Old 11-28-2010, 03:07 PM
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adam_
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Originally Posted by Roger Johnsen
Since removing the no. 6 plug and re-gapping, I haven't had a recurrence of the CEL problem / P0300 / P0306. I'm not sure what to make of the last post regarding the fact: "BERU's were updated with Bosh Part number: 999-170-195-90-M14." Should I call the dealership that performed the service and inquire with them? Am open to any suggestions as I'm not sure how to approach this...
What was listed on the work order from the dealer that replaced the plugs? This was in Nov 2010?

How many miles are supposed to be on those plugs?

Finally, if you just removed and regapped a plug, congrats- you know how to replace plugs! I replaced mine at 20k when I was getting a slight stumble, then again at 40k when I had a few misfires. Second time I replaced the coils to the 997 versions.
Old 11-28-2010, 03:49 PM
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Guys.. The coilpacks are getting cooked. On some cars they are getting to be 9YO.. In climates like Seattle with rain and snow, the coils take a beating. Look under load, the turbine housings can reach temps up to 1500F.. The coils on cylinders 1,2 and 4, 5 get the radiated heat.

Changing your plugs like Adam did at 20K and 40K with coilpacks at 40K is sound advice.

I have the new 997TT coilpacks and Bosch FR6 LDC plugs for $300.00..
Old 11-28-2010, 03:52 PM
  #27  
Roger Johnsen
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Thanks for the information on coil packs - will definitely upgrade to 997TT.

Adam - in answer to your questions:

The plugs are supposed to have 2,170 miles on them.

The work order listed the following:
LABOR
J# 1 01POX030996T 30K996T SER W/PLUGS $877.50

PARTS
QTY: 1 FP NUMBER: PK996T30k DESCRIPTION: 30K SERVICE LIST PRICE: *** UNIT PRICE: **** ***
QTY: 6 FP NUMBER: 999-170-195-90 DESCRIPTION: SPARK PLUG LIST PRICE: 11.82 - UNIT PRICE: 11.82 70.92

There's a number of other things listed like W/W CONCENTRATE, ENGINE CLEANER, ALUM SEAL RING, SYNTHETIC OIL, etc.
Old 11-28-2010, 06:20 PM
  #28  
Mikelly
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Now you know what to make of my last post.

Regardless, the BERU plug shouldn't be used. We've all been there, man, it's something you either know or learn. Just befare that in the future you'll want to replace them when you do the coil packs...

Mike
Old 11-29-2010, 02:46 PM
  #29  
Roger Johnsen
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Just spoke w/ my local dealership and found out they still do use BERU plugs, however, there was a TSB issued that changed the heat range from 5 to 6. (Change related to plugs fouling on starting engine) So looks like the plugs installed are the "recommended" or proper ones. At this point, I suspect the misfire problems were either caused by incorrect gap or improper installation of the coil pack. I've now driven the car more than a dozen times without the problem happening again so am thankful and will look at doing the 997 coil packs and Bosch plugs at the next maintenance interval. Regarding the oil on the threads - he said this is fairly common when the car goes long periods between spark plugs as an anti-seize practice. (Longer conversation but suffice to say he wasn't worried about the presence of oil on the threads.) Finally, the fact the plugs weren't gapped properly was more of a careless oversight but engine performance would definitely be impacted with improperly gapped spark plugs. The plugs are supposed to be pre-gapped, however, he has seen instances where the gap can be off so as a reminder, always double-check the gap.

Thanks all for your help with this - no fun when things are broken so your help has been very much appreciated!
Old 07-10-2016, 03:25 PM
  #30  
sperberj
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Default Bad gas does cause check engine light to light

Hi All; I had my 2005 TT in the garage with less than a quarter tank for over two years without running it. I finally put in a new battery and started it up. It was not happy with the old gas and coughed and sputtered a bit before starting. It ran OK and I started driving it with no engine light. After about 10 miles of driving a gassed it and spun up the Turbos. At this point the check engine light came on and stayed on. I proceeded to fill the tank to the top with fresh high test and kept on driving. After about 20 miles of moderate driving the check engine automatically turned off. My conclusion: the gas went bad over two years and it was detected by the 02 sensors and misfire sensors. It took a while to clear but it did. So yes, in some cases ad gas will set these sensors off and it does take them a while to clear. Anyway.....thats my 996 TT story.


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