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Any downside to aftermarket diverter valves?

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Old 05-23-2009, 10:57 PM
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Mr. C4
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Default Any downside to aftermarket diverter valves?

Hi!

I have recently seen on another Pcar forum that some guy swopped his DV's to aftermarket ones (billet) on an otherwise stock car and suffered a boost loss of 0.1 bar from the stock Bosch units. Any ideas if this is a common problem with aftermarket DV's as I'm about to pull the trigger?

Ciao,

Johannes
Old 05-23-2009, 11:53 PM
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raineycd
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I have not personally heard any chatter about bad aftermarket dv's. I read about the one you are referring to and it is probably a leak. I just put some Forge dv's on and got about .1 bar more boost over stock.
Old 05-24-2009, 08:01 AM
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Mikelly
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It's real easy to get the instal on DVs wrong due to the limited space. One trick I actually SAW at a shop was to place a jack with board under the motor (at the metal tab near the front) and unbolt the rear mounts, then slightly lower the motor to allow a bit more room for your hands...

I've not done this personally, but I have replaced the F-pipe on my DVs and it was a real bitch without doing that...I have Bailey DVs on the car, and they were on the car when I bought it, and I've had zero issues...

You have several small vacuum lines that can come off, so be mindful of the connections.

Mike
Old 05-24-2009, 08:36 AM
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Oak
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good idea to change out the f-pipe while you are doing the job with evoms heavy duty version. the stock is pretty wimpy and can pop a leak easily.
Old 05-24-2009, 08:37 AM
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Mr. C4
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Thanks guys! Coming from the NA world of Porsche, all these turbo related issues are total news to me.

Ciao,

JE
Old 05-24-2009, 08:57 AM
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Soul
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I was surprised at how tight it really is in there even after hearing about it being as such
Old 05-24-2009, 10:32 PM
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jcb-memphis
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Originally Posted by Mikelly
It's real easy to get the instal on DVs wrong due to the limited space. One trick I actually SAW at a shop was to place a jack with board under the motor (at the metal tab near the front) and unbolt the rear mounts, then slightly lower the motor to allow a bit more room for your hands...

I've not done this personally, but I have replaced the F-pipe on my DVs and it was a real bitch without doing that...I have Bailey DVs on the car, and they were on the car when I bought it, and I've had zero issues...

You have several small vacuum lines that can come off, so be mindful of the connections.

Mike

This is the trick my indy did...saved a lot of time and skin....

Forge DV's from Kevin at UMW. No issues in 2.5 years.

Jeff
Old 05-24-2009, 11:06 PM
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Mr. C4
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Originally Posted by Mikelly
It's real easy to get the instal on DVs wrong due to the limited space. One trick I actually SAW at a shop was to place a jack with board under the motor (at the metal tab near the front) and unbolt the rear mounts, then slightly lower the motor to allow a bit more room for your hands...

I've not done this personally, but I have replaced the F-pipe on my DVs and it was a real bitch without doing that...I have Bailey DVs on the car, and they were on the car when I bought it, and I've had zero issues...

You have several small vacuum lines that can come off, so be mindful of the connections.

Mike
Hi Mike,

Could you clarify what is front and what is rear? To me the rear mounts are the ones located on each side of the aircleaner box. How much did they lower by? No other hoses or cables that need to be un-done prior to lowering?

Ciao,

Johannes
Old 05-25-2009, 01:15 PM
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Chuck Jones
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I've never done this. I did it the hard way with bloody hands and a colorful vocabulary, but next time I have to service the DV's, I intend to drop it a couple inches. Make sure you get those clamps on there right...they are the most frequent cause of "it doesn't boost right" after the install. (They do recommend you "service" your billet DV's every so often to get the grime off the spring activated plunger and lube it with a good light silicone) you want to have your jack under the car before you start loosening the rear motor mounts, and drop it just a little at a time so you don't stretch any vacuum hoses or pull something loose...I'd go for a couple inches..and yes, they are under the approx 4" metal caps on either side of your air box with three bolts in them.
Old 05-25-2009, 10:50 PM
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Oak
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get the bailey dvs no maintenance needed lifetime warranty.
no need to lower the engine, just get a set of long needle nose pliers and change out the f-pipe to the evoms version at the same time and you will be good for the life of the engine.
Old 05-25-2009, 11:11 PM
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John D II
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I agree with Oak. The Baily's work very well and have a lifetime warranty. I did wear them out, though (after 80,000 miles of use, they leaked) and Bailey replaced them with new ones at no charge.

Also, I have had them in and out a few times without lowering the motor and did not find it that difficult.
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:53 PM
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Guys, what's your take on the Agency Power DV's and F pipe?
Old 05-27-2009, 01:10 AM
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Chuck Jones
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They look almost exactly like the EVO DV's I bought a year ago. Most likely made by the same outsourced manufacturer...probably China since they produce a lot of CNC stuff...and are masters at one-offs. My EVOs dont' have the O ring on the piston, but they do unscrew exactly as described in the ad. The fact they come apart would lead me to believe the O rings might need periodic lubing and cleaning to keep them sealing against the cylinder walls...otherwise they'd be a sealed unit. My EVO's recommend cleaning and re-lubing every couple years...Bailey's say no maintenance needed...ever... which would be an attractive feature for me.
Old 05-27-2009, 07:56 AM
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Mikelly
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You ID'ed the motor mounts in the rear... They're on either side of the airbox...

That said, I did as Oak and John said and just used a needle nose plyer that is about 10 inches long... Still a pain in the ****... Also, Mine are Baileys and as they said, lifetime replacements. I'd also recommend upgradeing the other four hoses that run to the intercoolers. You can buy the kit from Vivid, or one of the other vendors... I bought the SAMCO hoses, but any Sylicone based hose will do just fine, and the OEM hoses are known to fail over time.

Keep in mind, there arne't a lot of issues with turbo cars when new, but the added stress of boost pressure does take its toll on the components over time. You're buying a car that's used, and now having to replace some of those parts... Once you upgrade the few components that fall into this category, you'll be very happy with this car... It's the best sports car I've owned, and other than issues with the clutch hydraulics, and striking a groundhog on the race track at over 135mph, I've had no issues with driving the car on the street and track-upgraded for HPDE stuff...

Mike



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