silva

What are the most common issues to look for in the earlier TTs? I've read through some archives here, but would like to hear from owners that have always properly maintaned their cars.

This will be my first P-car, since up 'till now they have been out of reach for me. Currently own a Stage 3 B5 S4 (almost sold), so I need a new project.

Any advice? I do 90% of the maintenance on all my cars, and expect that I will do the same with this car. Would this even be a possibility?

Thanks for any advice/ help in making my informed purchase.

MidnighTT

The most significant problem with mine is that the cup holder sometimes gets shy and doesn't want to pop out. I keep shoving Viagra in it, but to date that hasn't helped.

Seriously, mine has been a solid performer - no need for service beyond oil, filters, and a plug change, all of which I did myself. My '02 is for sale: link to for sale ad

Jeff

jimq

search 2nd gear pop out, silly grins and speeding tickets for problems

silva

Thanks for the encouraging words. Nice car you have there too. Fortunately, I am able to buy these cars at dealer auctions throughout the US, so though your car looks perfect, I am looking to spend $40-$45K. This is based on current auction prices for 2001-2002 models with <40K.

silva

I have read about the 2nd gear pop out. This doesn't sound like a synchro problem, as that is usually more evident under load. Is it a shifter linkage alignment issue?

Silly grins: The more, the better!

I've got the speeding tickets under control, for now (Blinder and Bel STI). They're impounding cars in Ontario, Canada for going 50Km/hr over the limit, so you have to be really careful about where you want to "open it up" for a short while.

gobble

What auctions are you going to? For the week ending March 10, Manheim is showing $49,892 MMR for an "above average" 2001 and $62,313 for a 2002. "Average" condition cars are a bit less, but you might put the difference back into reconditioning the car. I've spent enough time at the auctions to know that many cars end up there for a reason. They then usually end up at places like Luxury Motors.

silva

I am looking at Manheim auctions for this car. I also know about how poor the condition of some cars can be at auction, though I believe with some patience I will find a clean one in the range I am looking to spend. If not, then I will have to "adjust" my budget. As for reconditioning, I'm not afraid of mechanical work, though I do want a car with original body panels and paint, if possible. I really would like to keep the car at less than $45K cost, and am willing to get a higher mileage vehicle if I can research its service history prior to purchase. Most likely, I'll end up with a 2001 for that price.

This is what I got as a result from the MMR calculatorfor last week, though I will never know the condition of those particular cars:

03/13/08 ATLANTA Regular $32,500 85,556 Below NONE NON N No
03/06/08 ATLANTA Regular $32,500 85,556 Below NONE NON N No
02/28/08 RIVRSIDE Lease $43,500 41,302 Avg BLACK 6G A Yes
02/28/08 RIVRSIDE Lease $38,250 42,547 Avg SILVER 6G 6 Yes
02/28/08 RIVRSIDE Regular $37,400 62,367 Avg GREY 6G 6 Yes
02/19/08 DFW Regular $44,500 28,698 Avg SILVER 6G 6 Yes
02/19/08 DFW Lease $44,000 33,612 Avg BLACK 6G A Yes

JM993

These cars are becoming such a bargain, that they are hard to ignore. I thought my next Porsche (which will be a daily driver as opposed to my weekend 993) would have been a normally aspirated 996. However, the turbo cars seem so much more trouble free (and faster) than the N/A cars that they are easily worth the extra $15K they command. With the "old style" bottom end, the turbos are not affected by the intermediate shaft, RMS, and slipped sleeve problems of the N/A cars.

Questions:

1. Are the cooling systems generally robust? Like Silva, I do all my own work. I imagine exchanging the coolant (which is all over the car with front mounted radiators) may be a bear.

2. Am I correct in assuming that otherwise the turbo is relatively easy to work on? (Easy is a relative term, an oil change on my 993 takes 1.5 hours and a spark plug change, well....don't ask).

3. Is there a way to add an oil dipstick (you can do this on some late model MBs). I'm old school and prefer not to rely only on a oil gauge.

Cheers