Dock

My oil consulption depends on what kind of miles I put on my car. City driving it's about 1000-1200 miles between quarts - highway driving is 1500-1800 miles between quarts.

I don't get any smoke on start up.

ssarchi

Do TT's have oil separators?

ltc

Be careful what you wish for....here's a recent example:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/222078-oil-consumption.html

ssarchi

ltc: that thread is a minefield....

but one thing is for sure: oil consumption and the reasons for why it is or is not at a certain rate is a complicated question. At the end of the day, we would all prefer to use a qt every 3-7k miles but there is little to be done about engines that consume at the rate of 1 qt/1k...... except try to drive it harder and MAYBE increase the viscosity.

Still wish I knew if TT's have oil separators........??????

alpha1

I just did a quick search, and this issue of oil viscosity types seems to be one of the most contentious issues on this board. In regards to the original poster's question, I burn about 1 qt every 1k miles -- 6k total miles -- (75% city driving, but frequent revs to redline in 1st gear) -- and really wished I burned less oil.

1AS

Re ?18,000 miles too many:
Knowledgeable contributors on this board have opined that the break-in procedure is less-effective to ineffective on cars with more miles. I had something around 4,000 miles, and a change in driving habits for 2 days made a bunch of difference. AS

Vino

I would recommend this place for an analysis-http://www.dysonanalysis.com/servicelist.html

Terry is one of the more knowledgeable people who are in the business.
About $50 and you will have the story told to you on paper and someone who looks at the makeup of oil in its virgin state and used state so he knows his oils. You guys will like him, very cool and will suggest some things to lessen consumption and improve wear. Talk to him first if you have questions and plan to keep your car for the long haul.

I am not suggesting that M1 is a bad oil, if you look at the Cayenne V8 non Turbo cars the oil samples are beautiful at 10K miles and didn't use a drop with a lot of additive left.
Someone posted a 20k report, though it "survived" the oil was shot.
The Turbo cars are the ones with the so so reports, M1 0w-40 seems to work better in cars that are non aspirated after a good break-in.

Some of you are correct about ring seating, well seated rings will protect the oil from getting too much fuel dilution which seems to be the main reason why the oil shears to a lower grade and has a lower flashpoint.....hence... you start to burn the oil. Some oils provide better protection in these situations.

If some of you still have consumption problems after 30k I would look into the cause more closely.

The only thing that doesn't make me crazy about M1 0w-40 is no API certified startburst on the front. Why it does not have it I don't know? Also, lead readings have gone up more with Mobil oils in recent times, that would be bearing wear for your information.....

Speaking about motors, I have only seen one 996 TT motor replaced on this board. I don't remember but I believe the member was from Switzerland with around 100K on the clock. That car was also used well and if I am not wrong used M1 0W-40.

Anyway, Try a different 40 weight oil that's approved by Porsche and see if your consumption comes down. http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf

Motul 5w-40 was strongly suggested as I hear it is shear stable, a true 40 weight and group IV oil

99firehawk

i belive the tt motor that was replaced and discused here was 200K+ if i remeber right. I have seen 2 turbo engines come apart one was delibrate abuse
, I have seen one other replaced for oil consuption, along the lines of 2 qts per 100 miles, it smoked pretty good, car had a hot tune in it though along with some other tricks

Woodster

who has a link to the thread about driving habits or "break-in procedure"?

what oils other than Mobil 1 are readily available in the U.S. for our turbos?


thanks,
MK

1999Porsche911

This is what I do:

Proper breakin must be done in the first 100 -200 miles and below is the proper procedure:

1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Drive the car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the engine bring the revs back down by coasting in gear.
4. Repeat several times in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RPM's for several more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight. (at least 6 hours)
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.

Your engine is now fully broken in correctly and can be driven hard from here on.

The above procedure will also benefit engines that were not broken in properly. As with all engines, it is necessary to periodically drive the car to redline and engine brake back to stop to insure properly maintaining ring to cylinder wall fit.

Boston Duce

FWIW;

I switched to Mobil Delvac-1 5W-40 on my first change. Delvac-1 is a HD oil formulated for turbo diesels, but it has gasoline approvals also.

My consumption seemed to have dropped, but my car is a garage queen so it is probably a moot point as I will "time-out" on the OCI before the mileage.

I believe that Porsche lists "Mobil 5w-40" as approved so I have an talking point for the warranty police if it ever comes to it.

Regards,
BD

ltc

Your procedure is somewhat similar to the break in procedure for 2cycle kart engines.

ltc

Motul is available in the US and on the worldwide approval list IIRC.

ebaker

Delvac 1 5w40 is the same as Mobil 1 TurboDiesel.

1AS

While I love to argue with 1999Porsche911, I largely agree. The only significant difference is bringing the revs up in each gear (2,3,4) then down in that gear. It takes a fair amount of open road to bring the car to speed in 2nd, then down, then back up in 2nd into 3rd, then down, etc. I accelerated pretty hard but not maximally to get to redline, then backed off suddenly to create cylinder vacuum.
The thread was under break-in(I believe) and was authored by one of our very knowledgeable posters. AS