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Ended up ordering them from Rose, a local cnc guy said he could make them but estimated 150-200 for them with no ETA, so I just ordered them from Rose and they will arrive on Monday.
So far it has been pretty straight forward, however I am just about to start reassembly and some have said getting it to fit right requires some trimming of the ducting. Not sure of that just yet. Although the spacers were almost $200, it was a better option for me as I prefer not getting into cutting parts if I do not need to. I'll do my best to add to this thread and post additional pics along the way. With it being winter here in WI and having plenty of activities that I have to shuttle my boys around to, I only wrench on it for a couple hours here/there.
Other mods? Car has also has RUF rear spoiler, as well as the modular wheels, Ohlins, H&Rs, links, etc. Car is tuned by Sam and plan to also put on a set of ported headers and K24s if I am still ambitious after this bumper install and if Phil sees his shadow meaning there's 6 more weeks of winter. haha
Also considering the RUF bumper. This thread makes it seem more complicated than I anticipated.
It's not complicated at all if you follow the RUF step by step instruction included with the bumper kit. It's very straight forward actually. The only difference is making slight mods to accommodate the bulky bumper support that is used on US model cars. You can mod it or simply install the ROW bumper support which will save you 5 lbs to boot.
Last edited by powdrhound; Dec 22, 2024 at 03:18 PM.
Well, I must have jinxed myself with my last post as I had a couple min to go to the garage and wanted to swap the horns over the GT2 bracket, however RUF sent me the wrong one. 99663501501 was sent, and is also the same part # I currnetly have on my car, however the invoice shows I paid for and need 99663515030.
OEM coolant hoses removed. Took a bit to get them off and in order to do that, had to work a flat head from the back side around the circumference as the hose was really stuck to the metal coolant pipes.
@JWILLI I set the front cooler in place, to see how the spacers fit and see what length of coolant hose is needed.
Now that the cooler is angled down, what brackets need to be bent in order to secure the cooler?
Is it the tabs on the top of the cooler mount frame or bottom part of the bracket somewhere or other?
In this picture, you can see the radiator support box around the radiator on the floor . The lower portion of that box is bolted into these two pads in the red circles. I bolted the radiator and box onto those two pads and pulled it forward to bend it forward. Those two pads are where the bending happens. I hope this helps.
In this picture, you can see the radiator support box around the radiator on the floor . The lower portion of that box is bolted into these two pads in the red circles. I bolted the radiator and box onto those two pads and pulled it forward to bend it forward. Those two pads are where the bending happens. I hope this helps.
Awesome! I had planned on trying just that. thanks for confirming it works.
Crash bar spacers installed and front cooler angled downward as explained above. Set the cooler spacers in place to set the distance and will disassemble to put the chimney duct back on to see if all still fits. Pretty straightforward so far.
Merry Christmas and a couple questions.
I started putting the chimney duct in and wasn’t sure if the spacers are supposed to be inserted from the front or rear? If from the rear, it would push the rad and duct forward more.
Currently I inserted them from the front and when putting all the bolts back, you can see how the drain tubes(?) ride over the top of the duct which doesn’t seem right.
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