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Preferred torque curve for 996 Turbo

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Old 10-05-2024 | 01:11 PM
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Default Preferred torque curve for 996 Turbo

Originally Posted by 2fcknfst
Agreed; a k16 car is excellent around town, k24 for road trips.
Quote stolen from Kevin's K24 thread

This got me thinking, why not just ask what people want?

What is your preferred torque curve shape?

With the turbo engine there is also time-to-boost to consider, but generally if you can make a lot of torque at 2500 then the turbos will be quick to respond at higher rpms also.

For any kind of acceleration contest, top end power at high revs coupled with the shortest possible gears always wins. This is taken to its conclusion in drag racing and the older normally aspirated F1 engines. Very fun and inspiring, but impossible to live with in any real-world use.

On the other end of the spectrum would be a 2 liter turbo 4 cylinder that is now found in every grocery getter made by every manufacturer. They are all the same. Flat torque from 2500-6000 then a fast taper off to 7000. This is always coupled with an auto trans or PDK so the engine is never under 2500rpm with any kind of load.

Where do you fall on this spectrum?

Chris
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Old 10-05-2024 | 02:10 PM
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I like top end power for a weekend car/toy, which this is for me. Billet K24/20g, 1.3-1.4 bar to redline. It also suits the roads I like to drive it on. IMO these cars have plenty of power out of boost to pull away from a light or merge onto a street. I have a B9 S4 with a stock turbo tune/mild bolt ons and it makes a ton of low/mid range torque, but really falls on its face around 5500. Light to light, with the torque curve and ZF trans, it’s faster than my 996, but would get left behind in a hurry on the highway.
Before my 996, I had a b5 s4 with 5 different sets of turbos over 14 years. Stock, RS4 K04, some versions of modified RS4 K04s, then finally RS6/K24s with a forged bottom end. Those I ran around 28-29 psi to redline on E. The bigger turbos are just more fun and create more theater to me. Vids of both bigger turbo cars.



Log of K24/RS6 setup. This is the latest spooling turbos I’ve had on any car and still had a blast with it on the street. Boost would come in late but very hard.


Last edited by Celison; 10-05-2024 at 04:24 PM.
Old 10-05-2024 | 02:48 PM
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I thought with the moderately sized Garrett based turbos you kind of get it all? My K24 billets are more laggy than I would like but it isn't too bad.
Old 10-05-2024 | 04:15 PM
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I really don't find driving my k24's around town to be a problem. Still plenty of power. Yeah, they spool up a bit more slowly than the k16's I had but honestly in street driving/speeds I don't feel much of a difference
Old 10-05-2024 | 08:15 PM
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I prefear linear smooth types of powerbands

I had a stage 1 tune on my tiptronic from a reputable tuner on here and while it ran great and is fast..I felt like it upset the chassis too much. When i'd get on the gas from a stop light the turbos would come online really quick and i'd be up on someones bumper and it had a very rubber band like feel or a 'shot-gun' type of feel. When driving through some twisty roads the rubberband like powerband made it kind of a point and shoot type of experience.

I went back to the stock map. I do plan on going with a set of k24 hybrid-ish like turbos soon.
Old 10-05-2024 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Celison
I like top end power for a weekend car/toy, which this is for me.
I prefer earlier power (I don't track my Turbo.)

On the street, WOT to redline in any gears other than 1st and 2nd obviously results in hyper illegal speeds, so I try to avoid these pulls.
Old 10-05-2024 | 10:46 PM
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Transmission matters a lot. For a manual transmission I find that linear is the best. With my modded RS3 the DSG did an excellent job of managing tq and gears to keep the power surge just going relentlessly
Old 10-06-2024 | 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by docwyte
I really don't find driving my k24's around town to be a problem.
Your boost map tuning probably has alot to do with this..along with the larger AR housing.

How much boost do you usually build just driving normally?
Old 10-06-2024 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Dock
I prefer earlier power (I don't track my Turbo.)

On the street, WOT to redline in any gears other than 1st and 2nd obviously results in hyper illegal speeds, so I try to avoid these pulls.
I think you are on the money with that statement.

Old 10-06-2024 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by CTS
Quote stolen from Kevin's K24 thread

Agreed; a k16 car is excellent around town, k24 for road trips.

This got me thinking, why not just ask what people want?

What is your preferred torque curve shape?

To me, it's as flat as possible, and, completely linear in delivery.

With the turbo engine there is also time-to-boost to consider, but generally if you can make a lot of torque at 2500 then the turbos will be quick to respond at higher rpms also.

The way my engine has been tuned, it feels as if the on power demand is excellent, there is no lag, and this transitions into boost with no noticeable delay. I suspect the tuning has advanced ignition off boost to essentially dial out what would commonly be referred to as lag, however the transition from vacuum to boost is not perceivable, giving the car a very drivable feel.

For any kind of acceleration contest, top end power at high revs coupled with the shortest possible gears always wins. This is taken to its conclusion in drag racing and the older normally aspirated F1 engines. Very fun and inspiring, but impossible to live with in any real-world use.

I do not agree with shortest possible gearing. In my opinion, the factory turbo 1st was way to short; I would always short shift the box with these gears when driving in the city. The addition of GT2Rs gearing made the car a great deal more tractable in the city,however, 4th, 5th/6th were oem turbo, so very factory on the highway.

On the other end of the spectrum would be a 2 liter turbo 4 cylinder that is now found in every grocery getter made by every manufacturer. They are all the same. Flat torque from 2500-6000 then a fast taper off to 7000. This is always coupled with an auto trans or PDK so the engine is never under 2500rpm with any kind of load.

The PDK is lazy - throw it into drive, and it simply performs; coupled with the rest of the digital nannies, its almost impossible to fvck up. The 996, in contrast, needs a constant mind to drive in a manner that extracts performance that is comparable to a PDK - blood, sweat and tears, as it were.

Where do you fall on this spectrum?

I have decided on a path that allows for me to drive the car, yet, upgrade the internals so that I can reliably run John's 980s. Spendy, yes, but at the end of the day, I'm fairly sure I'll be happier.

Chris
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Cheers,

Last edited by 2fcknfst; 10-06-2024 at 02:12 AM.
Old 10-06-2024 | 10:30 AM
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@2fcknfst You could just run the 980s and still be somewhat aggressive with the tuning as its a larger frame turbo. I think you can still bend/break rods at high rpm but its less likely than if you were to on a k16-variant

UNless you just need that gt3 crankshaft
Old 10-06-2024 | 12:14 PM
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I really like the idea of oil every 180 degrees.

I don't understand why Porsche didn't put the gt3 crank in the turbo.
Old 10-06-2024 | 12:20 PM
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For better or worse, Andrew is incapable of not going the overkill route on anything.
Old 10-06-2024 | 12:47 PM
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Perhaps.... Just a little.
Old 10-06-2024 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by vtec_
Your boost map tuning probably has alot to do with this..along with the larger AR housing.

How much boost do you usually build just driving normally?
Hard to say, the boost is there if I want it. If I'm just cruising around, usually 0.3


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