Bernard IV

I tried to take the 0-5v analog signal from my factory MAP sensor but it caused errors so it apparently interferes with the signal somehow. Something to think about if you try to do something like that. That's why I wired in a secondary MAP for my pump controller.

powdrhound

I run the Ti Automotive BKS-1001 (Veyron) pump with the included controller. It's the best pump on the market right now and fully variable from 40-100% output. Ours integrates with the M150 ECU but I would imagine there would be a way to integrate it with the stock ECU in some way, perhaps simply based on an added MAP sensor.

That being said, with a -8 supply and 1300cc injectors as part of a 5.0 Bar fuel system, this pump is easily good for 1000+whp with rooms to spare....

Bernard IV

Another issue I had is that the stock fuel pump setup runs the pump for a few seconds when you turn the key to prime the lines and then shuts off. The speed controller takes a few seconds to boot up so it winds up missing the priming window the stock ECU calls for to prime the lines and also delays when turning the ignition to start. The starter has to crank for 5 or 6 seconds to fire due to this issue. My solution was to wire up a switch on the dash to jump the fuel pump relay in the brushless pump controller wiring harness. I hold it down for a bit before I turn the ignition. With an aftermarket ECU you would be able to set it up to compensate for this. I also worry about the added complexity of the system failing so I wound up installing a wideband AFR gauge and sensor to keep an eye on it. In hindsight it would have been easier to just go to a Walbro pump and call it good, MUCH easier. If you aren't going to run crazy amounts of boost the Walbro should be the go to.

LinwoodM

Has anyone thought about swapping the studs on their exhaust to turbo flange for actual bolts to make it easy to swap in a cat vs race pipe?

Bernard IV

I use brass nuts that are easier to remove.

2jzhx60

I have been thinking of v-bands that would be between the lambda sensors so you wouldnt even need to unscrew them when making the change.

LinwoodM

that is a good idea too.

simRen

One pump either side of the saddle held in with foam.
8AN feed
6AN return through the flex fuel sensor
Magnus rails
Not sure on injectors size, ASNU ones

saber63

More fuel questions! while the dual pump setup looks sweet, for people who are retaining either a single GT2 jet pump, or TT dual jet pumps, what are the do's and donts? Regardless of feed/return/returnless

I've seen messing with in tank line sizes can mess with the jet pump function. how does larger pumps, check valves, and line sizes effect the operation?

trying to knock this fuel system in the head when using OEM ECU (no fancy motec to control the pumps here)

lastly, when running returnless, is the oem fuel pressure regulator used at all?

powdrhound

You always need to run a FPR. If you run a returnless system the FPR is placed in the front near the fuel tank and only a single fuel feed line is sent to the engine. You can see the FPR in the pic below. It's on the left side of the front bulkhead. The top -8 line is from the tank to the FPR, the bottom -8 line goes to the fuel filter (blue housing) and on to the engine. The middle -6 line is the return from the FPR back to the fuel tank. You can also see the -3 line going to the FPR which is the vacuum reference line from the engine.

saber63

sweet! that might work better as i can find standalone returnless fuel pump controllers for reasonable price. Where did you tap the -3 pressure reference off the motor?

questions around the jet pumps are still on my mind

powdrhound

We get the vacuum reference via the -3 right off the intake manifold as seen below. With regards, to the jet pumps, my car has the flat bottom GT2 fuel tank with a single jet pump. The fuel basket is at the very bottom of the tank so it's basically submerged at all times. On a TT, you don't have another option besides the dual jet pump arrangement unless you run dual independent pump at the bottom of each hump. The TT set up is not ideal as you are relying on the jet pumps to keep the fuel basket full which is located mid way up the tank above the humps. The basket is fully submerged only when you have roughly above 10 or 11 gallons in the tank. As such the jet pumps are critical. If I had to use the dual hump TT tank, I would probably set it up with dual pumps, one in the bottom of each hump. Essentially akin to how a typical Cup fuel cell is set up with multiple pumps. Hope the helps.

saber63

oh! I forgot the IPD mani has extra ports! But probably need to drop the engine to get to it?

this was one of the controllers i was looking at https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pw3bdti267/
it actually acts like the pressure regulator? So it claims? they have a lot of other control choices, so im probably going to use one of their controllers...

I am starting to think dual pumps with foam might just be the way to go... but should i be worried about one side running dry before the other and lossing flow rate / running a pump dry?

powdrhound

I'm not familiar with that controller. I would be skeptical of any type of foam holding up long term and not degrading over time contaminating the fuel supply. I would personally find some other way to secure the pumps at the bottom of the humps, perhaps in the same way the jet pumps are secured there. Maybe attach the pumps to the jet pump contraption somehow? I would imagine you'd need a one way check valve after each pump that way if one side ran dry the other pump could continue to supply fuel pressure uninterrupted.

saber63

good call on the foam, while check valves will protect pump back flow, you become limited to the flow of a single pump (fine for my power levels but maybe not others)

my concern is running a pump dry (maybe at full power) until the tank is refilled... liquid pumps dont usually like pumping air for longer periods of time...