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Pry bar it is. Plenty of pry bars and hammers on 6speed thread on alternator removal. Also, post #49 there talks about backing out the long bolt 3 turns from tight, then smacking it toward the front of the car, to press the steel bushing back into alignment with the surrounding structure. Anyone familiar with that situation/method?
Thanks T Kono for confirming N75.
Also, during tear down last night, I discovered that one of the three Y pipe mounting bolts was MIA. Great. More gifts from most recent indy? Who knows. Regardless, will match up with the two bolts present, assuming all are same length.
The alt has 3 point of contact. L(short bolt) and R(long bolt towards the head of the bolt and the other end of the bolt). You loosen the long bolt and smack it gently to loosen the other end of the bolt(it's at the back of the long bolt that you can't see). That 3rd point of contact has a "nut" that tightens when you tighten the long bolt....it's hard to explain but once you have it out you'll know
zip tie all the hoses....easy access to a lot of them. All the rubber hoses are old. If you aren't going to replace them, tie them as they are going to leak soon or later
Thanks @geetee . Very helpful description of the long bolt protocol. I understand exactly what you're describing. First experienced something like that on my Schwinn bike back in the mid 60's.
Will do re zip tie everything I can get easy access to this week.
1 other gasket i would replace is the TB gasket since you are already there. Mine on stock boost was leaking at 52k. Next tuned at 120k ish... or so. It's a somewhat common leak. Ask 911tuning markski who tunes/works with quite a few of these cars on a regular basis. I believe 99611031802 is the part number but double check
Alternator is out, with the help of a little bit of pry bar leverage. The threaded bushing at the far end of the long bolt seems very frozen in place. I put the long thread rod back in, minus three turns, and "three gentle taps" per service manual didn't do squat. Larger hammer and greater force did nothing either. I threaded the shorter bolt into the bushing all the way, thinking maybe hard torque would free it up. No joy there either. I think I can get it back in as is, but would be nice to free it up. Liquid wrench tonight, one more try tomorrow.
GBox 2nd gear detent arrived. What a ridiculous price for this widget. ($206 incl tax). If it's not patented, would someone please machine an alternate source? Yikes.
GBox 2nd gear detent arrived. What a ridiculous price for this widget. ($206 incl tax). If it's not patented, would someone please machine an alternate source? Yikes.
haven't heard mention of that detent part in awhile. if i may? are you hoping to mitigate an existing 2nd gear popout situation - or you hope it will work as a preventative?
Your mechanic is correct. The pop out issue was corrected by the factory in 2002 by changing the shim stack position of 2nd gear inside the transmission. The gbox detent might work might not depending on how much the syncros / dog teeth have rounded off already. I didn't know you were looking for one I have an unused gbox detent which I bought for my 2003 before reading the problem had been fixed .
I've experienced pop out twice. My indy says the more it happens, the more it's going to happen, so get on it asap. Welcome any/all advice on this.
oh man, that sucks as it obviously can't get better on it's own and he's right. if your 2nd gear synchro has "rounded" too badly ( it's actually the dogring iirc = the cause of it ), i've heard that the detent can slow, if not fully prevent it.california motorsports also makes a "shift arrester". before i got my g'box repaired on my '02, i used to literally hold onto the shifter when going downhill.
add: per jdexter's suggestion just posted,.. i've actually heard the ball bearing fix works better than the detent. but have no direct experience with that.
04-22-2020, 02:28 PM
