wkf94025

Thank you both. I will order new clips and O-rings, and send the snake cam in for a detailed look as to which type of ears are on my hoses.

EDIT: I should check the boost hose connection on right side, and compare it to the left side.

pfbz

Snake cam isn't really going to show that much. Bite the bullet and take your rear bumper off... It's turbo 101 maintenance.

k9turbo

to add to pfbz's mention of the #16 check valve. agreed, it is a common source of leaks. very hard to get to ( at the plenum area ) and if cracked, you will actually hear it leak as air escapes under pressure testing at 20 +/- psi. it's cheap plastic part.

wkf94025

New guy question: why no access from car interior?

wkf94025

By the way, thanks @pfbz for the list of cheap-while-I-am-in-there parts. Great approach.

I've been reading @markski thread on 6 speed re boost leaks. Great thread. I'm sold. Favorite quote thus far: "it's free HP!"

pancing

Interior? Or anterior?

If interior then uh that enginr is noisy, lots of foam padding and nvh stuff there. Also engine is pointing the wrong way.

Anterior well you can... Take bumper off airbox etc.

Dock

It's difficult enough to clean the inside of the rear window. I can't imagine how hard it would be to reach/work on what little of the engine would be exposed if there was an access panel cut into the body back there.

jdexter

did you get it put back together? with the quarantine, all I have is to read your story and wait for the ending. Why make us wait so long?!?

wkf94025

@jdexter sorry to keep you in suspense. Maybe I should reach out to Netflix about making this a mini-series? "As the Torque Wrench Turns"?

I pulled the bumper cover last night to get a better look at the left side intercooler-to-boost-hose connection. Planning to test drive this morning and see at what boost level it pops off again. Do the spring clips wear out, or the O rings or other details inside the connection? Curious what it takes for that connection to hold 1 bar consistently, in the face of age, road vibration, temps, etc.

Any advice from anyone on extract a bit of oil due to overfilling (by Chicago indy)? Obviously I could do a controlled drip from loosened drain plug. I have a siphon intended for fuel use, could possibly send that down the filler tube. What are the consequences of over-filling? The owner's manual is very clear about NOT overfilling.

Planning to stop by my trusted indy of 10+ years to get his eyes on it, as well as other work performed by Chicago indy. Frankly, I am wondering what else was done sub-par, as they also replaced front right axle and did rear brakes. I truly regret having let them touch the car at all.

And in case it wasn't clear from previous episodes, and refuting remote guessing by Chicago indy: (1) MAF sensor operates fine (logging expected voltage values on signal line); (2) DME looks fine (enjoying logging and graphing!); (3) there are no "blown fuses" as remotely relevant to the original symptoms (embarrassing guess by Chicago indy); (4) full battery charge did not change symptoms of boost hose blow off leading to PSM/ABS lights and codes; (5) transport driver did not f*ck up the car by having to jump it due to battery drain during transport.

More later today...

jdexter

you don't need to test drive it. Just work on the pipe until you think its on there well. Then pressure test it to 20psi. If it holds you are good. Its likely you'll find more leaks. Track those down. Pressure test again. Find more leaks, repeat.
If you want to drain some oil, just open up the engine crankcase plug. Drain that out. Refill with half of what comes out. Most of the oil is in the sump.

Carlo_Carrera

@wkf94025 Make sure you hear a very audible click when assembling.

pfbz

If your blowing hoses off on a car that didn't have the problem before, I think it's almost certain that you just aren't getting the hoses fully seated. Replacing o-rings and clips certainly helps, but as much as anything, I think it just helps to make it more obvious when the hoses are not completely, fully, and correctly seated. It's a bit tricky to get them in there properly.

...and when you have the system pressurized, reach in and give the the boost hoses a good wiggle. If they go bang, you didn't have it seated fully, or some combo of your clips/o-rings/ears might need replacement/upgrading.

When I upgraded my intercoolers, I bench-pressure-checked the intercoolers. This is where it became apparent that new 0-rings really helped... With the old o-rings, there was a bit of wiggle/play in the system and it was more difficult to tell if they were 100% engaged. I also was able to get them to pop at least once with wiggling. With new o-rings, everything tightened up. I personally didn't see any issue with the spring clips, but I might replace them as well next time I have the system apart.

An online oem parts shop like fcpeuro or rmeuropean can get you the clips and 0-rings in a few days, seems like you should just do it to eliminate variables. They are inexpensive parts.

As for the oil overfill, how are you determining this? What does your electronic gauge read? If you do need to drain oil, I'd just dump some out of the oil pan drain (not the sump drain) and then refill to the correct electronic mark. Trying to siphon out oil seems like it would likely not work and be a fairly big pita.

wkf94025

Thanks all. Pelican has O rings and clips in stock, so I'll likely order a pair this afternoon after meeting with local indy. Audible click detail noted.

Oil overfill concluded by the electronic gauge showing all bars lit, including the bar above the full mark. Am I misinterpreting the display? Plus there was a bit of oil in left turbo, when pulling hoses off for boost leak testing, which one of you surmised might be over-full oil. I like @jdexter method of draining a limited quantity.

Poco a poco. What else are you going to do during lock down besides deep dive into your new toy?

Dock

No. Definitely overfilled.

geetee

If the oil gauge is over max bar, you can drain from crankcase. That'll remove about a qt or so and should drop the oil gauge within min-max range. Now if it's still over max bar, you have a major overfill