Coolant Leak / Pinning / Welding Question
#46
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I assume that price includes the engine R&R, eh?
#47
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3k would include re/re engine and should include labour to change a few parts (RMS, coolant tank/ rubber hoses etc)\
the risk with the pipes opening are highest when doing a high speed turn with other cars or wall around...very slippery fluid lands on rear tires and can cause a big accident to you or those around you especially on a race track. So inspect the body work on the car if you think coolant hoses popped. Most of the time it is just a loss of fluid and shut her down.
the risk with the pipes opening are highest when doing a high speed turn with other cars or wall around...very slippery fluid lands on rear tires and can cause a big accident to you or those around you especially on a race track. So inspect the body work on the car if you think coolant hoses popped. Most of the time it is just a loss of fluid and shut her down.
#49
RL Community Team
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Yes, sorry - that was engine out, pinning/new glue - I added a few more goodies too while it was out.
I am slipping... must be the 197th consecutive day of rain getting to me...
I am slipping... must be the 197th consecutive day of rain getting to me...
#50
RL Community Team
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#51
#52
Drifting
#55
Drifting
#56
#57
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[QUOTE=Skyman911;16413244]So, what actually happens when you blow a coolant line from the glued connection? I know there will be a lot of steam and sudden loss of coolant. Are there any parts subject to damage? Anything to look for on a car that had blown a coolant fitting and had them welded? The guy spent almost $8K on the repair.[/QUOTE
The low coolant light immediately comes on and warnings follow in the dash. If the car is hot enough there is quite a bit if steam, but one of the hoses that gave up on me didn’t produce lots of steam, just a nonstop stream of coolant.
I would imagine if somebody neglected the low coolant and drove the car 1/2 mile or more the engine would get some hot spots in it. The temp gauge may take a long time to register the actual temperature, because it wouldn’t be touching any coolant ( 90% is in the ground behind you) I don’t recall hearing about anyone damaging their engine from this, but I would guess it’s probably happened to someone non mechanically inclined ( I’ll just drive it to the next exit and it will be fine!)
The low coolant light immediately comes on and warnings follow in the dash. If the car is hot enough there is quite a bit if steam, but one of the hoses that gave up on me didn’t produce lots of steam, just a nonstop stream of coolant.
I would imagine if somebody neglected the low coolant and drove the car 1/2 mile or more the engine would get some hot spots in it. The temp gauge may take a long time to register the actual temperature, because it wouldn’t be touching any coolant ( 90% is in the ground behind you) I don’t recall hearing about anyone damaging their engine from this, but I would guess it’s probably happened to someone non mechanically inclined ( I’ll just drive it to the next exit and it will be fine!)
#58
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Take off the WP housing and ship it to CA, there is shop there that will do it for $500-600 with JB Welding that will probably last for another 16-20 years and comes with a warranty also. It is funny to see people going back and forth with different theories on why welding is the ultimate answer. Everything you do has it's positive and negative and that includes welding. Even when done right, it can crack and start leaking.
#59
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Welding the stock pipes back in is an issue because they are very thin, and they have a gap to fill because they rely on glue to hold them in. Welding changes the aluminum and makes it weaker by the weld. A thicker aftermarket weld in part would be better, but welding the stock one’s is definitely better than the original glue.