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Based off John’s recommendations and this thread back in 2022 I ordered new springs through John. My JRZ RS Pros never felt amazing, they were always super harsh unless at speed on a track. During street driving they would undulate and really made driving the car not a ton of fun.
Since May 22 when I ordered the springs I moved and had a baby and just haven’t been about devoting time to a spring swap. My initial install was not on a lift so I had bad memories of this suspension install which further made me procrastinate.
Randomly on Sunday I decided to take on the job, on my lift this time. The spring swap was super easy and I’m embarrassed I waited so long. If you’re on the edge of swapping springs just do it.
I went from a 600#(5” spring)/800#(7” spring) set up with very weak tenders that were fully collapsed to a 1000#(5” spring)/1200#(6” spring) pound setup with 150/250# tenders.
After the spring swap I drove the car around the block which usually is the most brutal part of my drive and the difference was amazing. As described by the OP, the suspension “works now”.
Compared to my previous setup this setup is great, over small imperfections and bumps you can feel the suspension move to absorb the bumps. I report this experience without adjusting any of my shock settings (I was around +8 and +6 and had kind of given up trying to dial in the old springs after 4-5 years). I’ve since set the shocks back to the factory recommended settings of +6 rebound and +3 compression.
Getting my alignment today (-3.2 camber /zero toe front and -2.2ish and a little toe in rear). I will be doing a track sprint on Saturday at a track with a lot of “character”. This spring I will have the car re-corner balanced and likely drop the ride heigh a bit from the current x73 height since now I know I can trust my springs to handle some hard work. I can’t wait to see how well the car performs with a proper spring setup and my 265/315 ao52s.
Thanks John and the OP.
Rear perches went up 20mm and the front perches were unchanged.
Based off John’s recommendations and this thread back in 2022 I ordered new springs through John. My JRZ RS Pros never felt amazing, they were always super harsh unless at speed on a track. During street driving they would undulate and really made driving the car not a ton of fun.
Since May 22 when I ordered the springs I moved and had a baby and just haven’t been about devoting time to a spring swap. My initial install was not on a lift so I had bad memories of this suspension install which further made me procrastinate.
Randomly on Sunday I decided to take on the job, on my lift this time. The spring swap was super easy and I’m embarrassed I waited so long. If you’re on the edge of swapping springs just do it.
I went from a 600#(5” spring)/800#(7” spring) set up with very weak tenders that were fully collapsed to a 1000#(5” spring)/1200#(6” spring) pound setup with 150/250# tenders.
After the spring swap I drove the car around the block which usually is the most brutal part of my drive and the difference was amazing. As described by the OP, the suspension “works now”.
Compared to my previous setup this setup is great, over small imperfections and bumps you can feel the suspension move to absorb the bumps. I report this experience without adjusting any of my shock settings (I was around +8 and +6 and had kind of given up trying to dial in the old springs after 4-5 years). I’ve since set the shocks back to the factory recommended settings of +6 rebound and +3 compression.
Getting my alignment today (-3.2 camber /zero toe front and -2.2ish and a little toe in rear). I will be doing a track sprint on Saturday at a track with a lot of “character”. This spring I will have the car re-corner balanced and likely drop the ride heigh a bit from the current x73 height since now I know I can trust my springs to handle some hard work. I can’t wait to see how well the car performs with a proper spring setup and my 265/315 ao52s.
Thanks John and the OP.
Rear perches went up 20mm and the front perches were unchanged.
It's been while Shawn. Glad you finally got it swapped over and it worked out for you. That's the biggest mistake I see. Guys spend money on a high end remote canister damper and then use a spring that is way too soft. It just doesn't work. You will love the 1000#/1200# on track. I will really sharpen up the car and make a huge difference. I run 1700#/2100# on my Motorsport JRZ dampers and it feels spot on for a 2800 lb car, borderline a bit soft actually if you can believe that.
Cheers!
Last edited by powdrhound; 11-15-2023 at 11:40 AM.
How about for a two way moton clubsport with the seven position remotes.
Honestly I'm not too familiar with Motons although they should be very similar. I have a friend who had the Moton Clubsport remote 2-ways on his 996TT and ended up swapping in 960# fronts and 1140# rears if I recall. He wanted it as a dual street / track set up and was very happy with it. Originally he had something much softer. Based on setting it up at the track, I believe that was getting close to the limit of the valving on the Motons as we were near the top of the rebound adjustment range. It performed really really well however albeit a bit soft for a true track set up. He was on 275/335 NT01 with some aero. He ended up sending the Motons in to get re-valved and then swapped them for JRZ RS 3 way Pros. I wanna say we did 1200/1500 on the JRZs. If I'm not mistaken, a Rennlister how has the Motons here.
Last edited by powdrhound; 11-15-2023 at 02:14 PM.
Thanks, the information for these can be hard to come by. I purchased a used set recently, when I had them rebuilt by PSi I had them valved around a 700/900 spring. Have not installed them yet, I have a set of 750/850 springs and am second guessing myself.
Thanks, the information for these can be hard to come by. I purchased a used set recently, when I had them rebuilt by PSi I had them valved around a 700/900 spring. Have not installed them yet, I have a set of 750/850 springs and am second guessing myself.
I would check with PSI to see how much stiffer you can go with that valving. 750/850 is far from ideal. The valving you have should easily support a 20% bump in rates so I'd go with 800/1050 or in that ballpark..
If I'm not mistaken, a Rennlister how has the Motons here.
I still have the Moton 2-ways on my car, they are fantastic for relatively smooth roads and obviously they are da bomb on track. On the usual roads we have here in New England they are rather harsh. Spring rates are 913F/1142R.
11-02-2019, 12:55 PM
