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Well so I've tried Fuel and its there, spark and its also there, and injector pulsating and it is. The plugs look awful so I'm going to throw in a new set. I remember once where a set of plug where so worn that the engine wouldn't start like this one. I don't think its the ecu like the ECU repair guys tell me cause, I spray starting fluid and she tries to light, or run. They say when an ecu issue exist. The engine does nothing. it would not even crank, and of course this one does.
Are the plugs gas smelling wet, and if so is this decent smelling fuel or something that’s been sitting for a few years?
Yes they do smell of fuel, I can't say its old fuel smell at this point I'm at a lost to quite honest, but they are heavily foul. I can't see 6 coils going week but I guess anything can happen.
IMHO, it almost sounds flooded to the point where you've lost compression, plugs out, pull the DME fuse, crank it over a few times for a few seconds (say over a half hour) leave overnight, fresh plugs (and consider coils too) and start fresh
has it been verified valves are opening/closing, cams are turning?
Yes they do smell of fuel, I can't say its old fuel smell at this point I'm at a lost to quite honest, but they are heavily foul. I can't see 6 coils going week but I guess anything can happen.
How long has the Carrera been inoperable? If the plugs are wet, then it is probably a spark or possible bad fuel, again taking out the numerous other electrical issues it could be. As said above new plugs, verify good spark, and verify fuel that isn’t 3 years old.
Well today gave some insight to possibilities. Had a little help today. A good buddy of mine said something that just might be something to look into. He made the comment after I showed him what it did after I sprayed starting fluid in the throttle valve. It spit and sputter as if tried to start but to him he said it sounded as if out of time. He asked if the reluctor wheel is like a chevy pressed in place. I told him no that its a aluminium flywheel its bolted in place. He advise to check the install relation to the open tooth. He also doesn't think its the ecu, but not properly timed. He also asked about jumped timing chain but I told as far as I know that it would be impossible.
crank sensor spacing to flywheel crank teeth is 1mm. if the motor has never been opened then its unlikely timing is an issue. fwiw each side of the motor is timed individually using timing plates at the back of each cam. intake and exhaust timing plates are specific to the mezger motor
He did't mean sensor gap, tho it needs to be checked. He said unless the crank sensor has a fault which it might. He says usually TDC will have a relation with the missing 2 teeth on the reluctor wheel. From my understanding, when the engine is at TDC being #1 cylinder the flywheel which in this case becomes the lobe reference point combining it with the cam sensor wheel it self will be on the open, meaning the 2 missing teeth position on the flywheel. But I can't find anything that supports such fact. He believes that the reluctor wheel might have been installed incorrectly at manufacture.
Well today gave some insight to possibilities. Had a little help today. A good buddy of mine said something that just might be something to look into. He made the comment after I showed him what it did after I sprayed starting fluid in the throttle valve. It spit and sputter as if tried to start but to him he said it sounded as if out of time. He asked if the reluctor wheel is like a chevy pressed in place. I told him no that its a aluminium flywheel its bolted in place. He advise to check the install relation to the open tooth. He also doesn't think its the ecu, but not properly timed. He also asked about jumped timing chain but I told as far as I know that it would be impossible.
If you are spraying ether into the intake and it is attempting to start, then the injectors probably aren’t firing. Starting fluid doesn’t start an engine that has good fuel in the cylinder, it floods the cylinder further. Anything is possible with a used engine that is in unknown condition. Sounds like a compression check I may be in order, as if it’s getting good spark then it should fire on ether.
He did't mean sensor gap, tho it needs to be checked. He said unless the crank sensor has a fault which it might. He says usually TDC will have a relation with the missing 2 teeth on the reluctor wheel. From my understanding, when the engine is at TDC being #1 cylinder the flywheel which in this case becomes the lobe reference point combining it with the cam sensor wheel it self will be on the open, meaning the 2 missing teeth position on the flywheel. But I can't find anything that supports such fact. He believes that the reluctor wheel might have been installed incorrectly at manufacture.
the crank teeth on the flywheel dont move cast as part of the flywheel. you can only install the flywheel in 1 position since theres a pin on the back that must be seated to locate the proper position and the crank sensor reads the gap when the motor is fired heres a pic of my tilton flywheel which has the same tooth count for starter and crank as oem. its a single mass as opposed to a dual mass but dimensions are all the same
the crank teeth on the flywheel dont move cast as part of the flywheel. you can only install the flywheel in 1 position since theres a pin on the back that must be seated to locate the proper position and the crank sensor reads the gap when the motor is fired heres a pic of my tilton flywheel which has the same tooth count for starter and crank as oem. its a single mass as opposed to a dual mass but dimensions are all the same
I must thank you for all your efforts and help. Keep the comments coming as to they bring up ideas that might help. I thought I mentioned it, but my flywheel is aluminium and the reluctor wheel is bolted on. But I checked the timing as he told me to and its nuts on. Maybe a bad crank sensor. I'm also going to remove the injectors and have them cleaned.
i had a lwfw that had the bolted on crank ring and starter ring. perfect f/w inspected by tilton with zero defects. but the car constantly dropped the crank signal at idle.and the f/w worked fine on the car it was on before. but on mine it was a nogo. not exactly like your no start but as soon as i replaced the f/w with a solid unit all the issues went away. are you sure the f/w has the proper tooth count for the crank sensor?
03-01-2019, 05:58 PM
