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Clutch replacement price check

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Old 01-06-2019, 11:09 PM
  #61  
993GT
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+1, this:
Originally Posted by 911mhawk
Yes, ocasionally I'll put in gear if on a hill or at the track and don't want to set the brake when hot.
​​​​​Just wiggle the shifter before you start it, like I've been doing forever.
​ItsI nice to be able to start you car standing outside it.
and always want the parking brake to be the primary 'holder'
Old 01-06-2019, 11:09 PM
  #62  
"02996ttx50
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sounds like the le mans start to me lol.
Old 01-07-2019, 10:26 AM
  #63  
docwyte
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I'm a bit confused, why does unplugging that lower sensor make the clutch feel more consistent or the slave accumulator last longer?
Old 01-07-2019, 07:00 PM
  #64  
manimal
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Originally Posted by docwyte
I'm a bit confused, why does unplugging that lower sensor make the clutch feel more consistent or the slave accumulator last longer?
I was previously confused, as well, but this post spells it out well:

Originally Posted by pfbz
It's likely obvious to most if not all, but just to be clear... The improvement in clutch consistency with the switch mod on a stock clutch slave setup is from never depressing the clutch when the engine isn't running. The mod just makes that possible.

In stock form:
1) When the engine isn't running, there is no pressure from the power steering pump, which doubles as a clutch assist hydraulic pump.
2) The accumulator tries to compensate by retaining pressure from the last time the engine was running.
3) Depressing the clutch pre-start (required with the interlock) depletes pressure from the accumulator.
4) Without consistent pressure from the accumulator, clutch feel varies...
5) Couple the above with frequent accumulator pressure leaks anyway, and you have wonky, varying feel.

By jumpering the lower clutch switch, you simply remove the need to depress the clutch to start the car. Combine this with the discipline to never depress the clutch pre-start, and to always check for neutral before start, and you can greatly improve the consistancy, if not the actual feel, of the stock clutch hydraulics...

On my car, 60K miles on the original clutch. I had tons of variance in clutch feel before the mod. Probably needed a new accumulator. But doing the switch mod gave the clutch setup new life, and as I said, I used it for another year and was happy enough until it really started to go... Once I pulled the transmission, it was clear the slave was now leaking as well, so instead of replacing the stock slave and stock accumulator, I spent the extra $500 or so to do the full, factory style (drill, tap, new shift fork) conversion.

By the way, much thanks to Powdrhound and Cervelli Technical Services for guiding me through the process.
Old 01-07-2019, 07:47 PM
  #65  
Oak
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fresh pentosin flush/bleed keeps clutch pick up consistent, when ever pick up begins to feel weird a quick flush/bleed and alls good. along with the electrical jump I have no desire to update. I prefer the feel of the assist I can heel toe much quicker.
Old 01-07-2019, 08:06 PM
  #66  
Dock
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Originally Posted by manimal
I was previously confused, as well, but this post spells it out well:
Obviously results may vary, but with my stock accumulator, and without the clutch switch modification, I haven't experienced "...tons of variance in clutch feel..." (reference pfbz's post you quoted). As a matter of fact, outside the standard clutch pedal stiffness when depressing the clutch on start when the accumulator went bad, I haven't had any variance in clutch feel at all.
Old 01-07-2019, 08:23 PM
  #67  
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I was recently quoted $6700 for clutch replacement and coolant pipe pinning here in southwestern Michigan/northern Indiana area.
Old 01-07-2019, 10:05 PM
  #68  
"02996ttx50
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OUCH! glad i sent my porsche tech pal an xmas gift. sheesh.

back to the clutch in/out "switch" the whole point of disconnecting it ( jumping it ) is that doing so will eliminate accumulator issues. it's the stress on that toilet plunger when the motor is off, and no hyd fluid is pressurized that causes premature failure of it. which is of course connected to the slave leading to... jumping the switch does nothing to the "feel" of startup or clutch "action" as once the motor is running, the system feels the same as it always had.

i have mine disconnected for years now. the only way i can "ruin" the accumulator is by regularly engaging the clutch with engine off. ( which is no longer necessary lol )
Old 03-29-2022, 02:18 AM
  #69  
jmrosen
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Originally Posted by "02996ttx50
once again, thank Kevin @ UMW for providing this info in another thread which i finally located lol.. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...45-00-a-2.html

"Public service announcement. I recommend that "long term" enthusiast remove the clutch/start switch. This is a 5 minute job, with a male to male spade. In a pinch you can use a spare fuse. Remove the two wires and connect them to the two spade terminals (fuse)..

This mod will reduce the wear on the #1 main bearing thrust surface. Increase copper from oil samples points to this area. This mod reduces the excessive pressure on start up, by reducing the pressure from the slave/clutch."

also. GT2 ROB has a pic of the clutch switch under the dash but i was unable to link it for some reason. its in that thread for a "how to".
Eureka! I have been racking my head and all I could find was reference to oil cooler copper lines as the primary suspect, my copper has remained at 28, 45 and 47 PPM over three tests (past two years) meanwhile the rest of the values are perfect. This was the latest notes from my Blackstone analysis last week:

Copper (47 ppm) is still the hot topic for your Porsche. On the plus side, copper hasn't increased much since
the last sample taken in July of 2021, so brass/bronze wear isn't getting rapidly worse. That said,
brass/bronze parts like wrist pin/rocker arm bushings are still wearing more than they should be, even if
they're wearing in a stable manner, so copper at least warrants continued monitoring. All the other metals
look good, which is a bit reassuring, since we'd expect one or more other metals to also read high if there
were a major issue.”



Obviously Blackstone tech isn’t familiar with the clutch set up and safety switch system on my 996 Turbo and he’s mentioned other possible causes, but as you mentioned the #1 main bearing thrust surface is the likely culprit, can this (along with higher copper level in Oil analysis ) be detrimental to engine in the long run without any other values elevated?

Last edited by jmrosen; 03-29-2022 at 02:23 AM.
Old 03-29-2022, 09:21 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Turbodan
Dock: I leave it in first usually but wondering where you got the idea to park it in reverse? I recall Saab used to do this, but I would not think to try this on a Porsche.
When parked down a hill you'd leave in reverse versus first.
Old 03-31-2022, 11:36 AM
  #71  
yelcab
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Originally Posted by wyo
...- it has had an annoying vibration when releasing the clutch from a dead stop for a while
Then it did not fail overnight. It started failing a while ago.



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