powdrhound

To swap a GT2 tank into a TT is not a particularly difficult exercise but it is time consuming and it requires that all the coolant lines from the very front of the car all the way to the very rear of the car be changed out, both the hard lines and the rubber hoses. You would also need to swap out all the fuel and vent lines that connect to the tank. There are also a bunch of brackets and clips that need to be changed out. Besides the tank you would also need to change out the tank lid /in-tank float sending unit, and the fuel pump/basket. The final and most expensive piece of the puzzle is the requirement to run a GT2 instrument cluster otherwise you would not be able to get a functioning fuel gauge. All in all, it's probably $10-11K worth of parts and a few days worth of labor as the complete front suspension including subframe has to be removed from the car.

I do not know if the stock TT ABS unit is compatible with a GT2 cluster so that may or may not require some amount of wiring to work properly. You might need to go to a GT2 ABS but not 100% sure on that. PSM certainly would not work with a GT2 cluster as the PSM logic is contained in the cluster itself. If you have PSM disconnected on your car, the benefit of the GT2 cluster is that you would not get any PSM warnings. Hope this helps.

ghostofpain

Hey John,
i know that question is terrible, but to sell your car with OEM pieces and by a gt2 would that not have been better/cheaper?

powdrhound

s65e90

All that effort for a gt2 tank, why not just run a cell? Your car looks far from streetable anyway and looks exclusively used on a track, no?

powdrhound

LinwoodM

Are you still on a -6 line or have you moved to a -8?

powdrhound

I use a single -8AN supply that splits into a -8 Y at the engine feeding each fuel rail individually. There is no return line.

LinwoodM

As this thread is almost 5 years old, would you say that a -6 feed and return line is enough for 700ish whp using the 450 pump on stock ECU for a tuning source? Or do you think it is worth it to just do the -8 feed and -6 return since the work is being done and the cost is relative?

powdrhound

I would do the -8 feed for sure (the -6 is limited to 700whp or so). Do a -6 return if you are not controlling pump output, if it's fixed at 100%. The Walbro 450 is a PWM pump so you can use a controller. If you use a controller, you can keep the stock OEM return line. With a controller, I would use the Walbro 525 or 535 pump which as an output about 20% more than the 450.

I no longer use the fuel system set up depicted in this thread but it still works great for most applications.

2fcknfst

Great, now I'm thinking about fuel lines...

I have the Radium pump installed with the Walboro, will the lines be needed?

LinwoodM

See why I made that thread? So many people are in the dark as to all what is needed to do aftermarket turbos CORRECTLY.

2fcknfst

Yessir - I figured once I found out about the 90mm exhaust flanges, there would be more to it than meets the eye...

So far, I have gotten new injectors, new intake, new exhaust new FPR, new turbo bolt adapter thingy (coming at some point), have to machine a screw down, must make sure I do not incinerate a water line, considering a new fuel line, bunch of new hardware, new oil reservoirs (maybe... John said I could just connect the return line and remove the reservoir), thinking of new coolant pipes so I can mount the the taps horizontally instead of vertically....

Thank sweet baby Jesus that John had already clocked the turbos and set the wastegates because when I saw @paopao doing this set up with the engine out, I thought, yeah, thank sweet baby Jesus...

So yeah, deep appreciation for you starting that thread.

powdrhound

You should be fine. One of my track friends runs the XR1000s on his stock block 3.6 and he's at 645wph/535wtq using stock lines and the Walbro 450 pump. He has the IDC1300 injectors. Runs pump gas at 1.3 bar if I recall. Everything is working fine but I would imagine he's near the limit of the stock fuel lines. Anything approaching 700 I would do a -8 supply. Beyond low to mid 700whp, a -8 supply, -6 return and a Walbro 525 is advisable.

2fcknfst

Thank you, peace in my mind.

Capt. Obvious

Bringing this topic again as I'd like to start collecting parts to redo my fuel lines. Does anyone have a list of suggested fittings I should get to run -6 or -8 lines in my car (and suggestions on good suppliers)? Also, any "while you're in there" suggestions when installing the new fuel pump?