GT3 Tequipment Roll Bar Install - Cross Threaded
#1
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GT3 Tequipment Roll Bar Install - Cross Threaded
Hey guys, I installed the porsche tequipment rollbar in my car this weekend without any issue at all up until the very end. I was inserting the fourth bolt on the passenger side seat belt hole and cross threaded it. I know the hole needs to be tapped or chased with what I think is a 7/16-20 correct? After doing some reading I am seeing a lot of people switch to grade 8 nuts. Is there a specific hardware to use and if so where can I get the correct stuff? It seems that grade 8 bolts in the right sizing are really tough to track down.
I'd hate to use a timesert in the seat belt hole being that it's an integral part of the safety system.
Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks.
I'd hate to use a timesert in the seat belt hole being that it's an integral part of the safety system.
Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks.
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#4
Same thing happened on my car years ago. I installed a 7/16-20 Timesert. Use the .0600" long insert which is what you get in the Kit #762. Perfect full strength repair. The Timesert stuff is good.
#5
Rennlist Member
This happens a lot !!
In order to avoid this, I heard of an especially great tip when installing those bottom bolts and spacers...
Use threaded studs. Start the stud without the aluminum spacer in place. Then get spacer into place and bolt down tight..
In order to avoid this, I heard of an especially great tip when installing those bottom bolts and spacers...
Use threaded studs. Start the stud without the aluminum spacer in place. Then get spacer into place and bolt down tight..
#6
Three Wheelin'
+1 on using stud and nut vs bolt.
Insert stud, allow for stick up, place cage over, increase height of stud, install washer and nut.
Insert stud, allow for stick up, place cage over, increase height of stud, install washer and nut.
#7
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I actually ended up being able to chase the threads with a tap. Luckily I had only run through a couple threads and it was able to be saved without doing any inserts. I then got class 8 hardware for the front and rear which is no doubt the combo that is needed. I don't know why Porsche provides the hardware it does for this bar, but I'm glad I didn't destroy anything beyond repair.
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#8
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I use a spreader on the legs to take the pressure off the first few threads. Once you have the bolt established, no worries. If you don't have a spreader, a small jack against the transmission tunnel would work. Use a length of 2x6 to spread the load on the tunnel.
#9
Sounds like a logical solution.
Thanks for the tip.
#10
Spreader recommendation above is the key. I did this upgrade a few years back and the last bolt is really difficult to align and will cross thread easily. If you don't have a jack, cut a clean 2x4, wrap ends with duct tape, and wedge between tunnel and bar to align holes and reduce distance to threads. Spray bolt with WD40 and hand tighten only. If it doesn't bite, then realign and try again. Tighten down to torque spec. Breathe.
I have part PMNA part number for replacement bolt kit if you have already destroyed the bolt.
I have part PMNA part number for replacement bolt kit if you have already destroyed the bolt.
#11
Rennlist Member
check my thread here that details the process.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...d-vs-bolt.html
#12
Rennlist Member
Holy crap. The stud tip may be the best tip I have ever seen on rennlist. As someone who has struggled with this issue for bar installs, seat swaps, etc., this is pure gold!!!!