Anyone fiddle with their GT3 suspension settings yet? I've dialled out negative cambers (-2/-3 F/R) which seem to work well on track but has also made the car seem a bit more twitchy on the road. The new car is supposed to tramline less than the mk1 car but fiddling with the cambers seems to have made the car a bit more nervous on normal roads than stock. Any advice on camber/toe/damper/ride height settings would be much appreciated. I realise that a lot of it depends also on individual driving styles. However, I'm keen to experiment and advice on settings that work well would reduce the amount of trial & error that I would have to endure.

Has anyone tried out the green factory racing pads? I've just ordered a set to experiment with - wonder whether they squeel. Do they work with anti-squeel shims?

 

what's your front toe?

 

Green pads are very noisy. You can try and use them with the anti squeel clips, but I don't think they would help much. For just tracking, no need for the clips. The green pads have no harmonic noise dampers on the pads like the yellows.

 

mooty - I believe that the front toe is either 0.5 or 1 deg toe out, not absolutely sure and will need to check with the shop.

oak - thanks for the heads-up. I understand that the green pads are more wear and fade resistant than stock under extreme conditions - any views on bite and improved stopping power?

 

toe out? that would make for one helluva twitchy car on the track. Usually you want no toe or slight toe in. People that primarily AutoX would go for a slight amount of toe out.

 

The yellow P90 pads are OK but wear extremely fast, although easy on the rotors. This is what the pads look like with about 4K miles. They are ccoked but I never experienced any fading. Even though the pads have fissures, it doesn't seem to inhibit the braking performance. It seems like the outer front pads seem to have the deeper fissures. It could be due to having brake cooling ducts to the insides.



The green pads are stamped P50 for the fronts and P40 for the rears. The rears are slightly darker and has more metal in the compound. Kinda pricey just for pads I paid $555 for a set of green pads. Only available from Porsche Motorsports.

 

Oak - my set of green pads are on their way on a fedex plane from europe. Paying Euro 640 for mine (incl. express freight). Agree that they're pricey - but worth a shot anyhow.

Steve - the current suspension set-up I have on the car was copied from a set-up requested by a visiting factory driver for a demo mk1 GT3. It worked well for my own mk1 so I decided to try it on the mk2. Like I said, I may have confused toe-in w/ toe out and will need to check. The set up corrected understeer in the mk1. In the mk2, I believe the understeer may have been reduced a bit with the wider front tires. What is the typical approach to reduce understeer; is it toe in or out?

 

Weng, curious as to how many miles do you have on your yellow P90? And do you have PCCB's? Post a pic of your P90 pads when you change them out, curious as to how they look.

Thanks!

 

Yellow P90's are still new - 2,800kms (w/ 1 brief track day in the wet). I'm buying the green pads exclusively for track use and will swap back to the yellows for street use. So far I'm happy with the performance of the yellows with the mk2 brakes but I'm curious to see if I can find pads with better initial bite (as I found with Pagid Oranges on the mk1 brakes). No PCCB on my car - influenced by many discussions on this board w.r.t. economics for heavily tracked cars.

Will have to look up earlier threads to figure out how to post pics.

 

P90's are fine but when they get upto the heat limit of the pads, they start to feel "gummy". The release feels abit slow. The greens will feel faster and bite as well as the yellows but will wear on the rotors in comparison to the yellows. I'm hoping on better performance and wear from the greens on the track.

 

weng,

where are your bars set? front bar 1 or 2 less than rear helps remove understeer in my gt2, should do the same.... i run 2F, 3R street. am tracking next week and should change to 3/4 but may not have time..

 

weng,

1/2 to 1 deg toe OUT will be twitchy.
toe usually affects turn-in.
if you want to play with over/understeer, you might what to change setting on sway bar, rear/front tire sizes, tire pressure and/or camber.

 

PM me with your email and I will send you a whole write up from Pagid on 996 race pads and compunds.

 

Bringing back an old thread I started as I've finally checked my alignment and bar settings :

Camber : -1.6F / -3.0R
Toe : +0.1 F&R
Bar : 3 F&R

You guys were right - it wasn't toe out. Fixed the tramlining a bit by simply reverting to OEM cold pressures for street use (sometimes experiments blow up in your face ).

Tracked the car this morning with P-Zero Corsa's (awesome tires!) and got a current Formula 3 behind the wheel to suss out the setup. Amazing what this guy could do with the car! Verdict is as follows - a fantastic track car but handling could be further improved with the following adjustments : (1) more front camber and 1 more notch up on the bar setting, and (2) stiffen rear settings as current setup has "too quick a rebound which makes the transition from under to oversteer more abrupt". I'm not keen to invest in adjustable dampers so the only thing I could do this afternoon at the shop was to dial up the rear bar setting to 4 (max setting - Watt, where do you get 5 as I only see 4 settings?). The rear end definitely felt stiffer on the road - waiting to try this setting on the track before I fiddle with the fronts.

Judging from recent threads, there are those who will appreciate my quest to make a GT3 ride even stiffer and to render the cupholders useless.

 

Wow, I'm suprised to see so much bar on the car. I rum almost no bar, 2f 1r and the car feels good. It hopped around too much with more bar. The softer stock springs probably allow you to use more bar. Does you car have adjustable lower control arms that can be shimmed for more neg. camber?