I am having an issue with strange window behavior on my 6GT3.

I have opened the door and heard a bunch of ticking, then the window rolls down maybe 2 inches (slowly) instead of just the quick normal little bit to clear the rubber.

Also I have opened the door, closed it, and it didn't roll up at all.

Today I got a "Indicator failure" warning on the dash with what looked like a battery symbol.

Does anyone know what's going on? Could it be a bad battery? Or something worse?

 

I'm not a mechanic but My voltage regulator started to go bad. Fuses started to pop/go bad then battery drained and windows acted strange.
Once I replaced voltage regulator, new fuse, and charged battery I just held the window buttons down for a few seconds then up/down and they went back to normal.
Good luck.

 

did a quick search and found a guy that posted this.

"1. If Door glass does not drop when opening door from inside: Inner door handle microswitch. This switch can be seen without removing anything. It is right behind inner door handle, should hear clicking.
2. Door glass does not drop when opening door from the outside: Outer door hand microswitch. This switch can be seen when you remove the door panel and pull away the foam liner.
3. Door glass goes back up when you release either handle: Dock Lock Latch microswitch. Cannot be seen unless latch is removed along with clip.
4. The window does not drop when opening from inside or outside handle: Door Lock Latch microswitch."

 

^^^ Thanks. I thought whatever sensor detects window jams might be the problem. But the weirdness is on both sides, so unlikely a door/window sensor. Maybe voltage regulator or battery. I'm going to test with another battery since that would be the easy fix.

 

Another thing to consider is your ignition switch. A failing/failed switch will cause all kind of electrical gremlins. You can even source the ignition switch from VW for less $$.

And make sure there is no water under the seats, especially under the passanger seat.

 

^^^ Thanks, I almost bought a low-miles GT3 that had the ignition switch done. I found it odd that it could go bad so quickly.

I will look for water, but car is always garaged, and not driven in the rain...

I couldn't get my battery to charge, it started bubbling (like the last one) with the charger showing 50%. So my wife picks one up at the dealer but they tell her there is no warranty on the new battery! Why no warranty? They never told me that before. Anyway, I am sick of buying batteries for this car, so I am getting the GMG battery tray and will switch to Optima.

 

^optima not great either : (. I had used 2 up in 3 years : (. Try this to reset the windows. With windows down put key in door lock and lock it and keep key in that position the windows will roll up and car will be armed. See if that helps- just a thought. I had weird instances when I close my door and window decides to drop down a few inches. Mike

 

I would suggest putting in the new battery Original size battery. By a Ctek charger that plugs into cigarette lighter. Keep it charged when not in use, I have had same battery for over 5 years. Stay away from light weight batteries most people I know who have these need to use a portable booster since they do not hold the charge for any extended time. The part on the back of ignition switch is an easy and cheap DYI but usually you will start having problems removing key from ignition when this goes bad. Then all sort of wacky electrical problems from lights to wipers will start to appear. If same problem is happening to both doors I doubt it is microswitches in the door or handle. Keep us posted and good luck.