How many HC do you get out of your R6s?
#16
First off you are NOT slow! A very low 159 is a very good time in 100+ deg temps. Tire wear at those speeds and temps will be high, the only other thing that you may have already tried would be soften the rear bar. I will be going to Buttonwillow next weekend to see if I can give the NorCal guys any challenge, hoping the temps will not be like what you had last weekend.
Mike
Mike
#17
Assuming your car is setup properly, I think the tread usage will be determined on how fast you are driving. I have lots of tires with plenty of tread left but heat cycled out. This really encourages me to get faster lap times....
Most tires that I own have lost significant grip after 6-8 heat cycles.
Most tires that I own have lost significant grip after 6-8 heat cycles.
Cording aside, I am happy if I can erase both of the grooves before they cord. As others have noted, driving fast accelerates wear. Your camber settings are higher than I use, although the car is new to me and I've only driven it one event so far. Based on wear of others that are good drivers and don't cord their rears, I set my camber at -2.5 front and -2.0. Tire temps would be helpful and you might want to try reducing the camber.
BTW, Hankook TDs in 295/235 are faster than R6s for me by ~1-2sec. I'm also getting more HCs with TDs. Only problem right now is that 295s are impossible to find
First off you are NOT slow! A very low 159 is a very good time in 100+ deg temps. Tire wear at those speeds and temps will be high, the only other thing that you may have already tried would be soften the rear bar. I will be going to Buttonwillow next weekend to see if I can give the NorCal guys any challenge, hoping the temps will not be like what you had last weekend.
Mike
Mike
Chuckwalla this past week-end was hot as Hell, literally! Still managed to have a good time despite all my tires problems: corded R6, blew a front TD on track and corded my pickup tires!
Here is my TT run from Sunday. This is HC 4 of my 315/255 R6 set. If you watch the temp needle, you can see it increasing as the time goes. The video is lap 1-2 after warmup lap. Look at outside temp on the dash! First time I overheat with the car, I could do ~3-4 laps and had to do a cool down lap.
#21
Several of us on the east coast were having the same problem. Cording on the inside after a few heat cycles. Same tire. Noticed your pressures were 34 hot. And I was running the same pressures. We went to our tire guy at Radial Tire in Maryland. He is a major Hoosier distributor out here. HIs info from Hoosier was that Hoosier said to run pressures at 39 - 40 hot. Now have two sets of Hoosiers, one with 14-15 heat cycles and the other with 19-20 heat cycles and no cording.
Might be worth a try.
Might be worth a try.
#22
Several of us on the east coast were having the same problem. Cording on the inside after a few heat cycles. Same tire. Noticed your pressures were 34 hot. And I was running the same pressures. We went to our tire guy at Radial Tire in Maryland. He is a major Hoosier distributor out here. HIs info from Hoosier was that Hoosier said to run pressures at 39 - 40 hot. Now have two sets of Hoosiers, one with 14-15 heat cycles and the other with 19-20 heat cycles and no cording.
Might be worth a try.
Might be worth a try.
#23
34 is too low, you need more psi to even out the wear. I run mine at 38 and get even wear. 3.3 degrees front, 0 tow; 2.1 degrees rear, 2mm total toe.
#25
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Several of us on the east coast were having the same problem. Cording on the inside after a few heat cycles. Same tire. Noticed your pressures were 34 hot. And I was running the same pressures. We went to our tire guy at Radial Tire in Maryland. He is a major Hoosier distributor out here. HIs info from Hoosier was that Hoosier said to run pressures at 39 - 40 hot. Now have two sets of Hoosiers, one with 14-15 heat cycles and the other with 19-20 heat cycles and no cording.
Might be worth a try.
Might be worth a try.
#26
Running higher pressures allows them to last longer and requires higher skills because they have less grip, while lower pressures instill more confidence and are easier to drive because they have more grip - at the expense of shorter tire life.
I have -2.0 degrees negative rear camber and am now running 36-38psi hot which yields a reasonable combination of confidence, feel, grip, speed and tire temps. However, I had a rear inside edge that was starting to cord at 16 HC (6 Summit Point and 10 Mid Ohio), so even though I like the feel of lower pressures better, I might try 38-39 hot to see how that feels. Granted, while Mid Ohio has a relatively low grip surface it wears tires more than most tracks due to the very high lateral weight transfers and sections that push excessively. I once erased all grooves on both brand new left side tires in one day in my RSA!
Another interesting characteristic of Hoosiers that seems counterintuitive is that the center can have accelerated wear when the tires are under-inflated. Something about the way the tire shape changes under load when under-inflated. In a typical street car or trailer tire a worn center indicates over-inflation.
There is one safety factor associated with Hoosier tire pressures that came directly from Hoosier but wasn't widely distributed. Hoosier sent guidelines to distributors in about September 2012 saying that when driving tracks with excessive loading due to high banking - but also citing Watkins Glen due to the loading induced being similar to a high banked oval - that tires should be run at 40-42psi to increase the load capacity. I can't find it at the moment, but am trying to get another copy and will post if I do.
#27
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^ yes, counter intuitive to me as well. but the truly fast guys, not always porsches all prefer the high pressure. even in a lwt s2000, they run it at 38. it's not for saving tires, but for absolute lap time. they run the high pressure in races to. since they drop me like i am parked with 150hp or 200hp less than i do, i didn't dare argue with them
#28
I appreciate the info and will experiment with the higher pressures, thanks! Much easier to do with the GT3 than my RSA; I loved that car, but the performance and forgiveness in the GT3 is simply astounding - wow!
Fortunately for me the next track I will drive is extremely easy on tires (Road America). Where Mid Ohio was the track that most favored the lighter weight of the RSA, Road America is the one that will favor the GT3! :-)
Fortunately for me the next track I will drive is extremely easy on tires (Road America). Where Mid Ohio was the track that most favored the lighter weight of the RSA, Road America is the one that will favor the GT3! :-)
#30
Mike. West coast pressures must be different.
Maybe on bumpier tracks pressures need to be lower cause hoohoos drive like grease that high at Sebring. I've tried it several times at higher temps felt like rally driving. A bunch of fast gt3 drivers find the same here
33 hot. My pyro reading great and good grip.
Mk
Maybe on bumpier tracks pressures need to be lower cause hoohoos drive like grease that high at Sebring. I've tried it several times at higher temps felt like rally driving. A bunch of fast gt3 drivers find the same here
33 hot. My pyro reading great and good grip.
Mk