We aren't set up for it. These are cast and/or forged parts. We are a CNC facility. Wouldn't be cost effective to make these trinkets on our machines.

I've been shopping for a factory that can make this stuff for me in Europe.

 

This is a great thread, Ray. Sorry that you're having to do all of this work, but thanks for showing us!

Do you have an idea as to what caused the seemingly abnormally early wear/failure? Was it abuse? Lack of changing tranny fluid?

 

Best I can tell, it was was a combination of things - lousy or no maintenance, driven hard, and by folks who did not care or understand how to drive. The transmission oil was changed immediately when I got the car, and 500 miles later what I pulled out was pretty crummy. When I tore things down, it was clear that the transmission was not maintained...

This car has also had 2 money $hifts - that being grabbing 1st or 2nd when 5th or 6th was intended. I was able to find receipts for at least 2 full valve jobs including all new sets of valves - and clutches (which can be a problem when you spin them to 9 or 10K)

More money than brains is the comment that comes to mind...

Ray

 

Thanks for the info. Makes me feel a lot better that I won't have to rebuild mine anytime soon.

 

WRT maintenance, depends on what you do with the car, if you track the car, then fluids are cheap insurance, change them often and use good choices.

Ray - who need to finish this particular story

 

Wrapping things up!

Final stages of assembly: What gets done here are:

• 5th gear
• 6th gear
• 5th-6th gear slider
• Reverse slider
• Reverse gear
• The shift fork for 5th & 6th as well as reverse
• Final bearings and nuts (torque nuts properly)
• The oil sprayer – NOTE: the other oil pump pick up should have been installed
• Important here are to install the reverse gear slider properly – it should only move in 1 direction, Also alignment of the shifter rods and forks

Here is everything installed.





In the above picture – note that the 2 selector rods have holes in them (circled in red). Those holes must be aligned and is done so with a pin that is installed through both. The other issue here is to center the shift forks so that in an idle state, there will be little or no rubbing on the actual shift forks and the sliders. When I installed these forks, I had placed them on the sliders and very carefully installed both the sliders on the respective shaft and the shift fork on the respective shaft

At this point, ‘all’ one has left to do is torque the last 2 large nuts, install the last cover (which holds one of the 3 gears associated with reverse), installing the axle stubs, the oil pump & cooler, and anything else I have forgotten, torqueing everything, and hoping for the best. Don’t forget to seal the mating surfaces that don’t use gaskets - I used a sealing compound called ‘The Right Stuff’ instead of the factory mix.


Who knows - maybe a motor is next - now that can't be cheap...

Hope this can help someone...

Ray

 

Thanks for this write up! Hope you got a really slick shifting tranny.

 

Holy crap! Amazing thread.

 

AMAZING thread indeed. thank you

 

Hello Ray, I'd also like to thank you for such a helpful thread. You've been a life saver for me. I'm sorry that my first post is one asking for help but here goes..
Whilst I had a little time on my hands on Friday I decided to finally change the transmission oil in my 996.2 GT3. Carefully avoiding the schoolboy error of making sure the fill plug was loose before draining, I made a much larger error and removed the plug next to the passenger side drive shaft (US passenger side!). This is a towards the top of the drive shaft just in front of it. The plug has a pin on it and there was a spacer washer in the diff housing and of course it dropped into the working area of the diff never to be seen again. I've since discovered that it seems to have been some sort of locating pin for one of the shift levers.
With the benefit of you posts I've taken the box off and so far removed the rear cover to expose the large nuts.
I don't have an old clutch plate to lock the gear shafts so I'm struggling to loosen them. Does anyone have any advice/ideas on how to achieve this please?
Also, when pulling the gears off the shaft, will it be obvious on the synchro ones where exactly to pull? Do you pull the pair of gears together with the slider in the middle, as one unit?
And can anyone help with the tightening torques for the shaft nuts in the rear cover please?
Thanks a lot
Chris

 

Hi Audicdl,

PM me your email address and I will get you the torque values.

There are a LOT more pictures here: http://www.bethnrayndogs.com/Testing...ls.php?album=7

Hope it works out...

Ray

 

Have done, thanks Ray.
Chris

 

Hi Chris,

I didn't' see anything..

email is rbahr1900 at yahoo dot com

 

Ray, thanks for this thread! It was a great help and inspiration with my project. Ie how to transform a 996 turbo transmission to 996 Cup one with 996 turbo and 997 GT2 internals.

 

Hi Pete,

Glad it could help. What GT2 parts did you use?

Ray