When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I will try and get you that number - but the GT3 and the RSR use the same part there The track width probable happens a number of ways, both upper and lower control arms can be adjusted outward, and spacers can be run, also a combination of the camber adjustment and upper control arms will effectively change the track width - I will be needing to read (carefully) the RSR manuals, so I should have more information in a bit. A bit more reading, I am nearly positive that the real 996 RSR track width change comes from the wheel offset.
The pictures above show some rough measurements comparing both the front cross member and the rear side members. All of these bits bolt right up, the RSR uprights are where things really get different.
Thanks for the link John - made for good reading, I am looking forward to next summer....
Hmm I was reading back over the thread taking notes on part numbers and noticed my mistake. The subframe that I thought was the rear was actually the front (pic 1678). That means that digital caliper measurements that followed are showing a vertical difference (1684/1685) on the front inner LCA mount.
That is correct. The front 996 RSR cross member pickup points sit ~5mm further from the ground than the GT3 version. That said the later 997 RSR cross member is very slick - that one uses shims to move that point as low as you want - within reason.
Awesome thread, I agree thread of the year.
Some great information that I've found really useful as I'm currently in the middle of a similar kind of project on my 996 gt2.
I've nearly got all the parts together to start it, but I'm using 997 cup uprights and rear subframes. The uprights are nearly the same but with slight changes to improve geometry apparantly.
I have a few questions about the conversion if you don't mind me asking.
Cheers
Been tying up loose ends in the car, suspension is in, have some routing of ABS lines to finish off, brakes are all installed, etc. Took to rebuilding the CV joints and discovered that the outer joints are not designed to be serviced... A bit of research and I found: https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...e-rebuild.html, in particular a posting by Geoffrey - Thanks!!! , and muttered something about those 'Dang German Engineers', and 'I gots a lathe'...
so pretty soon we have:
Very carefully cut away the metal up to and including the aread where things are crimped.
after some care, and this metal is gone, a few litght taps with a drift and you have:
I also drilled and tapped the front of the joint to hold small (4mm) hex screws. You can see the witness marks here:
At this point it is pretty much like the inner joint... Use you favorite grease (I use NEO)...
Now machine and locate a small tab that will the default non-loaded position for the E-brake pads - I used measurements from the tab of the standard 996 GT3 upright.
Ray, I need to do nearly the same thing. Can you provide the measurements that you used for the tab? or a drawing if you made one?
Sorry, thought I had sent a PM, let me get the measurements and send them out again.
Here you go:
1.5" wide, .5" wide (I measured .45, but it tapers), and .95" high.
These measurements are not that critical since there is really no stress. It is just a resting point for the E brake pads - so, there should not be any contact with the rotor...
The other part you should get is 996.352.807.00 'supporting plate' which is that small plate that gets placed against this 'stub'
I will write up the latest adventures. Late last winter, got everything back in the car, brought the car to a well regarded shop as they claimed to know what secret source should be applies in the form of suspension alignment.
At the same time I had run out of patience and time and had a few problems to work out - the TOB on the tranny had popped off, a water line was leaking in probably the worst place - near the oil cooler on the motor, and I was just tired of working on this.
Well the shop was a bust - they screwed up more than the fixed, I finally got things working, did some track events, and got LOTS o' lessons learned
Tonight's excitement was all about bearings - wheel bearings and the shock mount bearings.
To begin with:
The front 996 GT3RS wheel bearing part number: 999.053.054.06 made by ***. *** # on the box is F-805394.03.RDL-G1
The rear RSR wheel bearing Part number: NTN AU0919-6 120605
I got in my front shock mount bearings - which are manufactured by Fluro in Germany - but they won't sell them (at least not to me):
Got the mounts a bit toasty:
The 1st went in smoothly, but the second got wedged. I then tried to press it in and wrecked the mount with the bearing being just a bit racked... - If someone has a spare one that they want to sell I would greatly appreciate it...
A note on disassembling these: Porsche uses these annoying clips, that are some type of C clip that are nearly impossible to remove - although there is probably a special tool that costs $375.46 to buy, I don't have one...
What I ended up doing was to drill a very small hole through the 1st layer of metal that allowed me to get a small prying device behind the clip:
Now the rear RSR wheel bearings: In simple terms I hate these things. These were by far the most difficult wheel bearing I have ever R&R...
To put them in perspective - here they are alongside a rear wheel bearing that was in my STi - a 500lb heavier car with roughly the same HP, perhaps a bit more...
I have a set of tools for doing wheel bearing R&R on the car made by OTC called the 'Hub Tamer'. It took this tool and a serious air wrench to get these in and out.
Still on the list:
Add rear E-Brake adjustment holes - normally the GT3 and the 911 use the bolt hole to access the adjustment wheel - I have the centerlocks, meaning that I don't have any bolt holes - I guess I will just make one...
02-01-2014, 07:57 PM
