Rovman

Wow! Great contribution to the forum there...

lordpantsington

Epic thread!

Vonschmidt

Great info thanks for taking the time to document all this.

rbahr

Tonight's excitement was all about bearings - wheel bearings and the shock mount bearings.

To begin with:

The front 996 GT3RS wheel bearing part number: 999.053.054.06 made by ***. *** # on the box is F-805394.03.RDL-G1

The rear RSR wheel bearing Part number: NTN AU0919-6 120605

I got in my front shock mount bearings - which are manufactured by Fluro in Germany - but they won't sell them (at least not to me):



Got the mounts a bit toasty:



The 1st went in smoothly, but the second got wedged. I then tried to press it in and wrecked the mount with the bearing being just a bit racked...

A note on disassembling these: Porsche uses these annoying clips, that are some type of C clip that are nearly impossible to remove - although there is probably a special tool that costs $375.46 to buy, I don't have one...



What I ended up doing was to drill a very small hole through the 1st layer of metal that allowed me to get a small prying device behind the clip:



Now the rear RSR wheel bearings: In simple terms I hate these things. These were by far the most difficult wheel bearing I have ever R&R...

To put them in perspective - here they are alongside a rear wheel bearing that was in my STi - a 500lb heavier car with roughly the same HP, perhaps a bit more...



I have a set of tools for doing wheel bearing R&R on the car made by OTC called the 'Hub Tamer'. It took this tool and a serious air wrench to get these in and out.

Still on the list:

• Add rear E-Brake adjustment holes - normally the GT3 and the 911 use the bolt hole to access the adjustment wheel - I have the centerlocks, meaning that I don't have any bolt holes - I guess I will just make one...
  
• Shorten the brake caliper bolts
  
• Torque everything down

FFaust

Nice thinking outside the box.

rbahr

So The worst that can be said about my wife is that she is an enabler. The best is that she is the best.

I got my Christmas present this week - a real GrandAM wing with deck lid, uprights, and end flaps:









The attention to detail on these cars is stunning: The Crawford wing comes with a removable Gurney Flap






The relevance to suspensions is that JohnPG (I think) said something like 'Hey, your gonna need a wing to keep that thing planted...' And I'll believe anyone...

And of course huge thanks and appreciation to my wife for putting up with this...

AudiOn19s

mmmm...that wing is NICE!!!

JohnPG

I'm having visions of seeing that car pulling away through the outer loop.....

kk2

What are your plans to mate the cup decklid to the stock airbox?

rbahr

Hey John,

I need to learn to drive it first...

kk2:

I am looking into a proper Porsche Cup/RSR air box. If that is to expensive I will likely make something...

Ray

DER951

If you go with the cup air box, I think Jerry Austin (amso3) has relatively reasonably priced air filters. The OEM ones are reportedly very expensive.

rbahr

Thanks Rod

rbahr

I will talk about suspension settings when I start to pull them together.

I had a request for detail on the rear dogbone replacement. Here are the details on what I have:



In general I think they are all pretty much the same. The differentiators here happens to be the quality of the rod ends.

If folks view this from a DIY perspective, please do your analysis. Cheap components will get you in a world of hurt. Currently I like the Fluro parts:

http://www.fluro.de/index.php/en/catalogues/downloads

in large part because they are one of the Porsche OEM vendors for both LCA and shock mount monoballs...

My links are an old set of JIC, and as the rod end wear out, I will likely replace them with Fluro parts.

Here are the measurements:



Safe to say that 38mm will work fine here.



These are 6.5" - (sorry to mix units), and .860" diameter



85.6mm - just need to make these long enough
Thread - 16mm x 2.0
hole is 16mm
width of ball 19mm - non standard - standard is 21mm, I will need to turn down the adapter
head width ~15.3mm





We can call that 16mm...





This will wrap up the suspension stuff for now, unless folks have questions...

rbahr

I have this little affliction, wherein I start something and suddenly I find my self saying, 'Well, while this is out, I might as well...'

Preventing the water lines from separating is a noble cause though, and will not be thought of as frivolous...

After a bunch of reading, I decided that pinning them was good enough. This has been discussed in detail and there are arguments to be made both ways, I do have a TIG welder, and I always look for excuses to play with my toys, but this was just one small task that needed to get done, and I had a lot of small tasks, and I am convinced that this is good enough. I did find JB Weld on a fitting - probably done by my good friend the previous owner ( My pet name for him is TB as in Thieving Ba$tard). It has held up well, good to have some of this in your bag o' tricks along with your duct tape, and baling wire!

The connections all look like:



With that in mind, thanks go out to SH || NC for this picture:

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...-fittings.html

and to Dan@Sharkwerks for his article: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...ark-werks.html

I will start writing up the tranny work soon, which is how I got into this mess in the first place!

lordpantsington

I do have questions: Did you need to do anything special to mount those rear subframes/Do they just mount to the standard GT3 locations? I've wondered how different the RS/RSR frames might be from GT3, but it appears that only the body is changed. I find it interesting that the LCA hole was moved inward. RS/RSR should have a wider track, and moving in makes me wonder how exactly the wider track was achieved. If you are not doing body work/using the same tires and rims are you able to note the change in rear track?
Lastly,
Can you measure this for me?

Thanks, this thread has been extremely helpful!